Rockfrog

Even more disastrous ... which way does the motor spin? Which way does the dizzy turn? The first fire vid shows you what the 4.0 sounds like with the wire order reversed .... when I realized what I had done .... I just lowered my head in shame and laughed. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Nope, but close and just as dumb. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

On that note anyone wanna guess what rookie mistake I gone done and made? Let's just say it was a doozy. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

I fought the Jeep, and I won ... I fought the Jeep and ... I ... WON! Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Well, this is as good as I can get it right now. https://youtu.be/_FrNDA1HzKg'> https://youtu.be/_FrNDA1HzKg It seems to be running super rich. I tried it with the O2 sensor unplugged. No change. It idles ridiculously rough, at first some of the lifters weren't pumping up. Motor (new to me) has sat a few years. It backfires out the tailpipe. The sucking noise is my PS pump running low (another day's problem). Before I called it a night I had full oiling at all rockers again. Is it possible there is a mismatch with the newer dual pattern cam and the Renix Dizzy. I couldn't get the dizzy as close to #1 as I remember being able to with the old motor. Guess I could knock the tabs off, set the motor to TDC again and set it dead on. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

I have it running, ish. If I give it part throttle it will run but backfires and runs rough. I might be a tooth off the mark this time. Too advanced? Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Today's development ... Fluids in, all good to go. Battery in, no startup. It's got spark, and I tried to reset the distributor a couple times. So far I have been able to get it to run I keep the pedal pressed. So she's close. Won't run otherwise. Swapped back to 4.0L TB incase that was part of the issue. I'll get it running, then work the 2.5L angle. Any suggestions? Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

I replaced mine with stainless screws of the appropriate thread pitch. Now I won't have to worry about them snapping one day. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Pictures to go with the above post. And the last two are of the rad in place with me bleed fitting. Since I had a TJ upper hose I managed to make it a slightly more streamlined version this time. Engine side is TJ, Rad side is stock XJ/MJ hose. And I started swapping in the dual diaphragm booster. Would up using the 98 ZJ version as it simply fit better with few modifications needed. The WJ booster I tried would fit up correctly due to the clutch slave hose and the firewall lip around the stick booster. Adding a 1/4" spacer didn't really make it any better. The ZJ booster (although physically near twice the size) fit right flush without the spacer (I had previously bent the upper lip up, but not the contour lip on the face of the firewall). So, now to make up bubble flare adapters. Might swap in the ZJ prop valve since I have all the pre-made lines though.

I have grey seat covers to match those, they are the cloth tweed/vinyl combo type. But, I'm up in Canada so not sure on shipping costs. But, I was planning to strip the seats down this week anyway. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

So getting really close to finishing the engine bay. Just need to add fluids to motor, trans, trans case. Driveshafts are in, front is a bit too long, so I'll have to get that cut down before anything funky. Cleaned, painted and rocker guarded the crossmember and trans mount adapter for the AX15. Odd part ... The crossmember that was originally attached to my donor AX15, is exactly the same as the stock crossmember in my 88 with BA 10/5 ... I was always led to believe they were different. Bolted up just fine with a little wiggling of the driveline. Big question now is ... How to get the 4wd indicator light working. The 242 switch has a simple two wire switch on it (black and white, literally). Not sure if my 2wd 88 MJ is going to have a provision for a 4wd light. If anyone knows how to wire that switch in I'm all ears. Once I have it running it'll be time to gut the interior again, and start working on a dash swap (just swapping my cracked 88 for a mint 92 dash pad) and adding in the tcase shifter. Swapping a set of XJ Laredo wing backs (sadly they are 4dr seats) and building a proper speaker box for behind the seats (since I won't be able to fold them forward anyway). Again, another call for advice ... How to convert Laredo wing backs to folding forward ... Anyone? Is it even possible? Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

I have a 92 head, and 2000 intake with 94 exhaust on my 88 block. All of it (minus the head) is now on a 97 block. My 2000 Cherokee has a 93 head installed in 2005 after the stock 0331 head cracked. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Nope, 3 hole triangular pattern on the Renix, 4 hole square pattern on the HO. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Forgot to add these for you. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

There is no valve at all in the CCV system, it is a simple controlled vacuum leak. Work the same as a PCV does but in reverse. Follow the vacuum hoses. The big thick J shaped hose is the CCV breather. The other two are vacuum lines ... One goes to the thermostatic valve (warm air from the duct taped hose goes through a flapper valve controlled by this). The other goes to the EGR valve IIRC. The hose you show (larger) on the intake manifold is the other end of the CCV orifice line ... There is no valve there, just a rubber elbow. The other end is a plastic elbow in the valve cover that has a small 2.6-2.8mm hole in it (depending on year). It usually gets all clogged up with soot. Good idea to carefully remove it and clean it out. Be VERY careful around the MAP sensor line, they are usually the most brittle vacuum hose on the system, and generally fail when failing about on some other part of the motor (the MAP line is the easy one, goes from MAP sensor directly to the throttle body). Or, they just melt for the pure joy of it. I usually scavenge the hose ends off that particular line and bend up some 3/16" brake line to replace it (no more broken leaky line - ever). As for the duct taped hose, it's usually located in the exhaust section ... Just a generic hose available in a couple sizes. It's now made out of aluminum foil and simple stretches to fit. Like a dryer vent hose. Sometimes called a pre-heater hose, exhaust heater hose, warm air ducting/hose .... Just generic stuff. Nothing fancy or specific really, our local part stores usually have it in the exhaust section come in a small box, and can be had in a couple widths and maximum lengths (like I mentioned it's a stretch as needed fit). If your local parts boy can't figure it out ask him to look for a warm air duct for an early 80's anything. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Yes Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Because the Auto read backwards from the ECM. The Auto TPS is two in one ... One side produces a reducing voltage reading, the other produces a climbing voltage reading. The ECM reads the climbing side and the auto reads the reducing side. So, as a result you have two plug leads on the auto TPS. The Auto TPS is cheaper as it was more common. I used to run one until I swapped wires for the GM TPS a few years back. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

That duct taped hose can still be found just about everywhere ... Exhaust Heat Stove. Pretty much a relic of the Carburetor days, back then it was needed to help with cold weather starts. Pretty much not needed with MPFI as atomization happens pretty much right at the chamber. I deleted mine as well, with the 4.0L it serves no real purpose ... It would have some effect for the 2.5L TBI engines though. The CCV system pulls from the manifold. The hose at the firewall end is a metered vacuum line creating a vacuum in the crankcase. It draws fresh filtered air through the other hose at the front of the valve cover which is connected to the airbox lid. I never had smoke coming out of my old 88 but she really liked to push oil out under load. My engine bay was covered in years of it when I got her. I ended up just putting a filter on the intake (front) side and running it to a place where it collected less. This was after the usual shorten and drilling of the stock vent tubes. And, after changing to a 97+ valve cover which has a full length under tray ... Which did lessen it some. Having had the old motors head off at one point I knew there was little I could change in my case ... Cylinder walls were polished smooth, she was just tired and blowing her guts out slowly. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Yeah, that's the normal solution most take. Of you look you should even have the plug for the auto TPS output already in your engine harness. Last picture is with an Auto TPS. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

I thought they look OK, I was actually thinking of running a set on the fender of my XJ ... solves a problem when I start my half doors. That, and even though the 2000 XJ mirrors are pretty durable ... I near killed my driverside once or twice now. As for the MJ, I like my old 80's factory towing mirrors ... so much so, I drilled and braced the swapped in XJ doors on her now. That was a bit of a pain, but still my favourite ... And still the lowest profile mirror option (when folded) I have yet to see. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Bit more work in the engine bay, went quadding over the weekend to "get my head straight". Just got back to the MJ today. Updated the injector connectors for those off the 97 TJ harness that came with the motor. Stretched the temp sender wire to the front, rebooted and stuffed it all inside the late model harness tray. The Renix harness is obviously routed a bit different and a bit shorter so I side tapped the tray (read cut a hole out the side). I'm hoping once I tackle the C101 I can route it all the way to the back like the last models do. Basicly a wiring day, still have to rewire the back up switch on the AX15. Just need to find out if the HO and Renix backup switches are both a simple switched negative or are they a positive/negative circuit (meaning I need to be sure on what wire goes where). Other than that and routing a new circuit for the 4wd light I should be ready to fire by the weekend. Amazing how much $#!& gets done when your employer of 23yrs sends you packing "without reason" ... Joy! Yeah, that was what they actually wrote. Once sentence. But, enough of that, we speak Jeep here. [emoji41] Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Odd ... Double posted. Anyway, those newer injector connectors are stellar, simple squeeze and disconnect. No messing with a pick to snare the little retainer clip (never was comfortable just yanking those wires - just begs for an AMC harness nightmare). Much more secure and easier to get at. See pics below. Tapatalk is having it's way with me today it seems.

That there is a 97 TJ Wrangler engine, attached to a 93 XJ Cherokee AX15, with a 97 TJ bellhousing, 93 XJ clutch and pressure plate, 1988 MJ flywheel and finally a 92 NP 242 transfer case. It also has a multitude of 1988,1992,1993,1995,1997,2000 XJ/TJ/ZJ parts Mish mashed in the 4.0 was a basicly unchanged design until 1999 when the TJ and ZJ got a completely different block design (well just different enough to make swapping impractical). All the stock 1988 Renix bits mounted up fine to the block (water pump, alternator and brackets, distributor, . The only issue was the knock sensor, the hole was there and already tapped, just needed chasing before mounting the sensor. Had to cut the lower most alternator bracket bolt (on timing cover) short a bit as the earlier holes were pass through, but the later blocks were blind holes (easy fix, or other option was to drill hole through like the earlier blocks). Other than that, I relocated the CBS and temp guage sender to the thermostat housing (from a 90 something) the hole was there, and a plug installed, but I wanted it all more reachable. Just to confirm, the blocks will swap. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Check the exhaust manifolds, the 3.8L had a history of cracking exhaust manifolds ... even more so than a 4.0 Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk