Rockfrog

yep had to replace two sockets prior to doing my 97+ front end swap, ran one for a bit just by running the ground around and into the socket ... didn't even know I was doing it until the front end swap. i guess the prior owner had the same issue and didn't feel like fixing it. Either that or your bulbs are burnt out ...

So, just to clarify, the headlights work right? The hi bulbs aren't burned out or vice versa? Does it have a relay harness installed? If so, are the relays still good? What is the condition of the headlight switch? How about the column wiring ... or even more so ... the condition of the bulkhead connector in front of the air cleaner box? Does the front harness still have a grounding point that is good? There is also the possibility the switch itself is futzed. try cleaning it and test voltage to, and out of the switch.

it's the shifter interlock jobby. I disabled it while I was swapping lock cylinders before putting the 92 auto tilt column into my 88 5 spd MJ. can't remember what I did exactly, was a while ago. but pull the column, find the rod, figure out where it needs to be to let the key go and make that the permanent state. I think you just need to lock it in place. been a while like I said. Did you mess with the ignition switch rod at all? sounds like it's now out of adjustment or not connected correctly.

I would suspect the tabs on the shift fork snapped off or the fork is bent ... so the fork moves but doesn't really do anything.

Push? My 1988 MJ columns all require a pull to click to engage the hi-beams. Pull once till you hear/feel the click for Hi, once again for Lo. Now, my 2000 XJ is a push HI/pull LO switch but the columns are nothing alike.

OK, got myself to thinking ... Has anyone ever tried using the GM 3/8" fuel line fittings to replace the trans Quick Connect fittings when replacing the AW4's trans lines? I currently have the hose clamped onto the lower fitting tube end ... and as expected it's starting to leak yet again. I don't want to deal with those gimpy Chryco connectors anymore ... and the GM fuel line fittings are the same type connector as the trans (and also fit the fuel rail as well). They are readily available, but, they are a nylon fitting so pressure becomes an issue ... will they burst under hot trans line pressure. The upper Rad fitting was easily converted to a barbed nipple with a standard inverted flare fitting ... but not so with the lower. I'm going to be replacing all my trans lines with bent to fit 3/8" brakeline shortly and using -6AN between that and the transmission and some standard fittings (3/8" female inverted flare to 3/8" hose nipple) but again I am still left dealing with connecting to the cursed Chrysler quick connect lower radiator trans cooler fitting ...

I never liked the Renegade, but I do like the Comanche Concept. Yeah, I do. But I use my MJ as a DD and occasional work Truck (dump runs, hauling my quad kinda stuff). Something this would suit to quite well. NOT that I plan to sell the MJ or the XJ for one anytime, but I like the concept. A slightly longer bed would be perfect IMO.

Agreed, I try to keep all the factory sensors I can find. It's also how I happened on the GM 2.8L TPS compatible swap for manuals ... It just looked too familiar to toss.

I have yet to find one. I do have an 88 XJ harness I can look at when I get home. A lot easier than gargling under the dash and tempting yet another circuit failure.

No, the 99 up Grand Cherokee (WJ/WK) use knuckles with removable bracket calipers. The 93-98 ZJ uses the same Chrysler knuckles with integrated brackets and the same calipers as 90+ XJ/MJ. As for swapping, the earlier AMC (Bendix) uses a completely different bracket spacing than the later WJ brackets ... I already tried that one. It may be possible to make an adapter plate, but they are not directly swappable without changing the knuckles.

Yes, I called them Hubs in my previous post.

If you swap on the Chrysler knuckles (90 up) you will need the matching Chrysler calipers, pads, and a set of either 90-99.5 hubs and matching composite rotors ... Or 99.5 up hubs and matching cast rotors.

Two ways to fix that .... It's a GM weatherpak connector, NAPA (or any parts store that carries) may have the square block style terminals. They should have a flat 4 that the terminal leads can be swapped into if not. The connector is easily disassembled to replace the connector housing. Just need the right connector tool (again NAPA or similar). Otherwise scour a JY for any auto XJ/MJ 87-90 as they will have both connectors (the manuals will only have the one side). Replacing the TPS will also solve the problem. The guides can just be pulled out of the vehicle side plug. And really as long as the terminals enter the sockets correctly it won't be an issue, but unless you ensure they do they will have a poor contact in the connector block. Edit - just noticed you had a manual ... Just tape that connector off then ... As stated earlier, only the flat 3 prong is needed. Just keep the terminal leads separated when you cap it. I usually just plug it in on mine to keep it clean.

Transfer case should be a 242 unless it's 2wd. Good for parts. Don't be surprised if it has drums though.

And the LED light won't pull enough draw to need a relay (put led bulbs in the stock backups and all of it will draw less than one stock incandescent bulb did).

My driverside door switch seems to stop working at least once a year, usually mid winter. A quick cleaning of the door switch gets them working again. Guessing I have a leak down the a-pillar through the windshield. That's on this summers list of crap to deal with. I also replaced mine with erratic housings, and led bulbs. Going to add another XJ dome light in the middle rear as well with LED's and some led courtesy lights. I hate trying to find stuff with dim interior lights. And courtesy lighting means not having to mouth a flashlight while fixing the ebrake again.

For what it's worth I have Monroe's on my MJ, happy enough with them. Sensa-tracs in the front, load levellers in the back. Used to have the blue cans on the XJ ... Seemed fine for a low cost shock. Rode way better than the "expensive" shock I replaced them with.

I have an ecu from a 1990 auto currently running things in my 1988 5spd.

They all had the 4 pin connector it was a standardized harness assembly. My 88 5spd has it as well. They just dead end is all.

You also have the option to use a GM 2.8L TPS 86-94 ... Only requires swapping two wires around in the connector. In my parts it's the cheapest priced one about. Hell, if you go Standard and BWD rockauto has them cheap. Last I looked $32 cheap. I've been running the junkyard GM (delphi) sensor for the last 8 months or so now.

I do have to agree, it's a really solid example, I even entertained the idea of swapping the entrails of my SWB to end up with an LWB in the end game. Unfortunately if I did bring it home, I likely wouldn't live long enough to remove a tire.

The biggest issue was overpressurising the cooling system. Last we talked it ran fine otherwise. If I had the spare cash it would be in my driveway already ... but the diesel does nothing for me, I'd be doing a driveline swap.

BC has a maximum 65W hi, 55W low

I pulled mine out of a random Honda at the JY. They are used for headlight relays and other loads similar to the Bosch units. Seems to work fine. Pick your poison really, I found it odd the Putco uses the different relays ... But not a problem really. When I did the other vehicle I used a generic eBay version that used Bosch style relays and had ceramic plugs. Haven't noticed any difference between the two ... They both solve the Jeep lighting issue. And really, given that legal wattage headlights should only draw ~6A on high beam ....

The Putco uses a standard relay, just not the standard Bosche style 5 pin relay. They use a Honda style relay.