tjbliley

I have a 207 I need to get rid of that came out of an MJ. It is for sale I just haven't gotten around to prepping it for sale. I could do that in the next week or so. Won't be much, cause I am just selling old parts to offset my jeep addiction, not make money.

I just installed a set of chevy 2" drop shackles on my MJ. I got me a good inch or 2.

I want an Egg Salad sandwich from L'burg. Little place near the bridge or something like that. The guy that built the crew cab also has a Jeep Tug that has a deisel. It is sweet.

Your new best friend should now be a wire brush(preferably a wire wheel on the drill) and some anti-seize with locktite in just the right spot.

both are correct. tire size and gear size each would change the final drive ratio so the speedo gear would change.

WahooSSteeler, It lives down toward Lynchburg. If I can find it I ca introduce you to the guy who built it sometime soon.

What he said.

I have had great success with removing the hub by using a sacrificial socket. I have a 12 point 13mm socket that I use to put on the bolt after it has been loosened about a 1/4 inch. I loosen all three bolts and put the socket on the bolt while there is that 1/4 inch gap between it and the spindle. Then you hit it with that new 3 pund sledge you have. move the socket from bolt to bolt around the three. don't go in a circle if you can. go back and forth. It will take a while but between the pb, the sledge and the socket I have yet to not get one off. I even have pulled a set in the JY to have spares for the trail.

Work smarter not harder. Spray right inside the hub area with penetrating oil or PB or something else. Then hit it with a deadblow hammer in a star like you would the lug nuts. In time it will loosen and come off. Give the chemical time before you start hitting it.

It is but smarter is not always better. It just needs more info to make a decision. Renix does it with just a few data points.

Did you regear or just swap t-cases?

nope

What kind of case was in there? Was it a 207? If it was you may need a new gear for the 231. You should be able to swap the gear into the holder and put it in and it should work. The drive gear in the case is about an inch and a half long I think so it should still engage the speedo gear.

I think the posts in the DIY section should be able to be locked by the author. When you start having a conversation about how someone did this or that then the point of a clear list of steps to do a project is completely lost. If there needs to be discussion about whats in the post, can't it be done in the tech area. And if the author needs to add info based on the discussion then they can. Any thoughts?????

suing back cost money. Its a gamble given that the bench is unpredictable most of the time. most businesses don't gamble on that, even less when it is a jury item.

RIGHT ON! frankly, I don't understand why business' don't resort to a sign saying "We are not responsible for anything resulting in damage to you or your vehicle, as a result of installation of tires that are larger than the maximum factory recommended size, BUT we WILL install them" it's as simple as putting a sign up. if you don't read the sign, and you have a tire failure or something of that nature resulting from your modifications to accomodate larger-than-stock tires, tough $#!+. your problem. and please, DO NOT tell me that this wouldn't suffice. I could die from the contents of a juicebox, but there are warning labels and ingredient contents. so, if I drink some juicy juice, and die, tough $#!+, i'm the $#!+ who didn't read it and figure out if I had any allergies to it's contents. the company wouldn't be responsible, nor would their insurance be responsible for covering the company's @$$. You are on the right track, but you forget one important thing. They would not be responsible, but they would still have to defend them selves an inordinant number of times in court when they are sued. The sign could possibly change the liability but will NEVER stop the lawsuits that will be filed and need to be defended. You have the right to sue anyone for anything and there is nothing anyone can do to stop that. Said from the guy who is right of middle but left of the 700 club and his cronies.

What he said. Or use something similar.

I am working on the same thing. I have to do the trim around the outside and It will be done.

My Mj just had a bad case of the wobbles, right after I lifted it a little bit. Happened at 45-50 or so and if I hit a bump around 45. Track bar fix helped make it not so bad. Big fix was the alignment. I still need to take it to a shop but fixing my Toe problem has eliminated it for now. Not saying it won't come back next week, but the geometry on these things is fairly pecular. It wants to just in the sweet spot or it will let you know.

Can't you lift the rear with your engine lift and some chain. Why wait man, get it done already.

You can get the pump from Napa. Sending unit is tough to find.

You all forgot about the extra battery and alternator to run the neon on the underside and inside the ride.

You need to do some real world measuring. look at the distance you have from the stock tires to the springs. Then think----5.25 backspacing, if you move the rimitself out 1 inch and the tire width grows by 2 inches overall then you should be ok. so thinking that 4.25 backspacing and a little bigger tire might work. Here are some numbers 225/75R15 8.8 Wide 235/75R15 9.3 Wide 30x9.5LT15 9.7 Wide 31x10.5LT15 10.7 Wide AS you move the rim out you can compensate for the tire width. You have to be aware of the outside sheetmetal and flare, but you can tweak this to work.

Sure you can. Just cut the t-case end of the shaft. I'm running a cut down isolator shaft on my 88. :thumbsup: How did you cut it down? I have been told a few times that the heat from cutting and rewelding it will degrade the rubber and make it likely to fail.