tjbliley

Valves are a 3-way valve. stem out is off the test port and the hose and compressor are open to each other for normal operation. Halfway is open to test port, compressor, and hose/system. stem in all the way/short is hose is cut off from compressor and you have the ability to remove the compressor and swap it without a full recharge as the hoses are sealed from atmosphere. They are called service valves for this reason.

Has anyone seen this or tried it. I am interested just to have a place to mount some LED lights. I would get it in Flat Black, but it looks like if it fits, it would be nice. http://www.autoparts...3jd024y8I.email Just want an idea before I shell out the bucks.

Looks like a front hitch.

I have been gone too long. Life got the better of me and now I am about to hand the keys to this rig to my 16 year old son for his daily driver. There have been a lot of changes. It is down to the final pin stripping and emblems. Still need to finalize the A/C, but I have a sealed evap and a box full of parts that need to go on before spring. Will Post interior pics soon. Hope to spend more time on here over the next forever, but it will be a challenge.

LeBra went under in April of 1009. There are lots of other vendors for tonneau covers. just use the vehicle specs on the label to find one that fits. This one covers well and is relatively water tight.

Here is one

Going to take the MJ in for Safety Inspection in the morning. Been checking and double checking for the last week. Wish me luck.

I used the wiring diagram and applied power to the window circut,then connected the doors together. I will replace it all with a cross body wiring harness from a cherokee later so I can make the power locks work. right now its just the windows.

Lizard Skin is a sound and heat insulating spray on coating. You can add sound insualtion and heat protection then add a topcoat or just cover with vinyl or carpet. http://www.lizardskin.com/ I have used sound protection and a coat of spray-on rattlecan bed liner on the floor. I will eventually add carpet or vinyl. I just need to find a good source for the carpet. I want molded, not universal.

Here are the pics of the interior refurb. I still have to finish the Sirius wiring, but it is done for now. Sorry about size, pics are big.

I have Tonneau I bought from Pep Boys. it fits an S10. It fits my truck great.

I have gutted the interior and started the swap from Maroon to gray. Swapped in buckets for the Bench.(Truck is for my son, so less seats means less friends in the cab). Tinted the rear window. Put Lizard Skin on the floor for sound control and covered it with rattle can truck bed liner. Part of the Resto-mod was replacing the windshield and having the rubber gasket put on instead of metal trim. Replaced the rear slider which was leaking bad with solid window. Installed rear cargo light. Doors have been replaced with 1994 door with power everything. Windows wired, trying to figure out the relays for the locks. New headliner is in. New black steering wheel is in. Have Black Vent shades for doors. Its been slow but the horus have been hard to come by. Should have it back on the road in the next few weeks. Plan is for the body work, left rear quarter needs work, right B pillar needs work. Going to paint it Forrest Green with a single silver pinstripe down the body line. Gray herculiner on lower 6 inches of the body and black roll-in bedliner in the bed. Switch rear axle to stock geared 4.56 rear and regear front to match. Posi-lock the front axle disco. Pictures will come soon. I hope to have it completely done in the fall so he can drive it some when he gets his instructional permit.

I remember him too. I think he was a real @$$ and could flame the hell out of people on here but usually refrained unless provoked. But he drove an awesome MJ........at least he thought so. Not I hear it is going to be much better.

I am back. For those that do not remember me I have an 88 MJ 2,5 AW4 (read got the stock 4.56 rear) which has been converted from 2wd to 4wd. Plan for it has always been to do a resto-mod, with most of the mods to the susp and drivetrain. I had to take a short sebatical(sp) due to funds and work but I have started back on the project with my son at my side. I have gutted the interior in prep for installing a new one, have added power doors and wired the windows but not the locks yet(seems like a lot of relay work), installing some buckets, have sealed and lizard skinned the floor, getting ready to install the cargo bed light. Also going to throw a cheap paint job on it and some bedliner when it gets warmer. Plan for a Posi-lock in future, maybe an XJ console and convert from column shift with non-tilt to floor shift with tilt. I will be searching on here for some of the info to finish and here as a resource for the things I have already re-done 5 times so you won't have to.

Any progress on this????? What are the dates we need to pencil in for the first meeting?

The proper way to build the 2.5 is to change the thermostat, change to the Mopar purple Cam, add a header, a catback exhaust, and go to the jet chip. All this can be done on the MPI engine. For the TBI engine, you can swap to a dry manifold, add a header and catback, then swap the cam. You could try to change the injector, but the renix hates big changes. Other than stroking it which would mean a total rebuild, there are no other options that I know of. I am doing the first setup on my TJ, cause somehow I got a cam and lifter kit on ebay for $30 never installed. Guy just did not know he was holding the unicorn. I am going to try all the other changes for my TBI MJ, when I get some time.

Count me in. For what its worth......I could bring a hand cart so everyone could move your stuff easier.

The fit is multi-application. It came off a mid 80's toyota pick-up. you can go to the Bestop website and look at the application list. In the installation guides there are measurements that tell you the bed size they fit. It took some time to find one, but I think it is a real good fit. It will collapse down up behind the cab and leave the entire bed open.

I have not posted much on this build in a while. I still have to do the interior rehab and some body work. Yesterday I found a great deal on a softopper. I could not pass it up.

You need to make sure the TC depth is right. Also the input shaft may be different. Check those things first.

What taz says is about right. I am running 4" ?TJ springs on the front and got about 2.5" of lift from them. This works well with a AAL and Chevy Drop Shackles in the back to give you a nice rake. This will allow you to clear 31's with the right wheel backspacing.

Here is the one I got and it works great. I got it at Pep Boys for $199. fits a little off because the bed is not a perfect square in the corners. the rails splay out toward the tailgate. It still fits and unless you look for it you can't tell.

Visual inspection when putting it in gear and looking for movement. the torque of the motor will apply pressur on these and then once the movement is tranferred to the axles the drivetrain kinda settles in. the movement will cause the noise due to binding. Also if it is a manual then it could just be the clutch trying to tell you it needs to be replaced. If it is an auto then it could be the torque convertor or an internal tranny issue. mounts are easy to check by having someone put it into and out of gear and visualize them for too much movement. The other problems could take more in depth means to find.

Check the motor mounts/tranny mounts, as well as the U-joins in the drive line. That would be my first placed to look.

Sorry I was talking about the short block question. He asked about the short block and using the same year head. The block did not change configuration, but the top end, head, manifolds and such changed over the years. . I should have been more specific in my response.