tjbliley

I run 35's with a 2.5/ax15/np231/Dana30/Dana35/4.88's and my end ratio is stock. Which means that it will go whatever it should go if it had stock tires and gears. It pulls up hill and I have 5th gear on the highway, can do 80-85 if I have too. You just need to remember if you have that size tire your COG is altered a great deal and that much speed can cause more problems........Voice of expereince there.......You may just want to cruise around 65-70 and enjoy the ride.

you 2 should buy it together if you each just want parts of it. then sell the rest for scrap or peice it out to cover your investement.

yup, whenever the carbs were in there. it was still same block. mine has a block off plate on it.

Only change I know of was the fuel pump from 86-87. Mechanical to electric. other than that I think you should be OK.

Custom 4x4 fabrication http://www.custom4x4fabrication.com/ It is just what I wanted. Good fit, nice lines. Not alot of $$$ either. I got mine used, but they are still not bad new.

I did the initial design, but I used a local shop to do the welding and the to plasma cut the brackets. It can be removed from the brackets. has 2in angle on the back side as tabs. Brackets mount to stock bumper location. Get in touch with Matt at www.independent4x.com and I can take mine back to him for measurements and he can make one for you. Just have him give me a call. Not sure on the cost cause I had my own materials except for the bracketry. He can get with you on that. It is a simple bumper. 2x3 tube with receiver integrated. Bumper is tucked under the tailgate and fits flush.

Just did mine today.

Just added a new rear bumper. Now on to the exhaust work and then to body work and paint. Its an Independent4x/Bliley custom original. I think it is perfect for this rig.

I am using a custom4x4fab front bumper. I love it. fit is great and I am looking to add a ligth hoop in the next few months.

Don't have either. I had some of the same issues on mine and the problem was in the connector for the injector. Also the CPS was an additional contributor. Jeff also said his acted up due to bad O2 sensor. so you might check those. Jeff just unplugged the O2 sensor and ran that way for about 6-9 months until he could get around to replacing it. Just a few thoughts for you.

I have one here but I won't be in D'ville for a week or two minimum. My buddy might be there at Bushc park later in the week. I will see and send it if you want.

I did my entire truck in about 45 inutes to an hour. Go slow and keep it at an angle. It will get hot so let it cool off frequently. If it gets hot then it will not work properly until it cools and you get a fresh edge on it. you can melt it and then you have to get a fresh edge on it by using it on something rough. The instructions spell this out pretty well. You will be surprised by how well it works.

CW don't forget the 2.5 AW4 combo which got the 4.56's from 87-90 or so, maybe longer.

borla

It will have a D35 and 4.56's if it is the AW4 2.5 combo. You must also make sure as Jeff said get the right converter. I know this cause I had to swap mine 3 times to figure out I needed a new one for my 2.5 instaed of the one I got from a 4.0. Hardest thing you will have is to find a front 4.56 to swap into it to convert it to 4WD, unless you can do the gears yourself. It is a good find if the body and frame are in good shape.

I would say a 7. Just cause of what you have to go through to get to it.

What he said

You need the ground. There is a small piece that holds the bulb on socket and creates the ground. It also directs the light to the green ring. I don't have a pic handy right now but can get one in a day or so.

I noticed on your bolts that the thread pitch is different. I always thought that the fine thread had more holding power. Hence would not be a downgrade in holding ability to go to the coarse thread. Just a thought. I could be wrong.

Here are mine. This is a Rusty's 2" AAL and chevy 2" drop shackles. I don't have any issues with the axle placement.

I voted for collapsable, but would like to have both. Flat bottom for the house and some collapsable for the MJ.

That too.

You can pull the whole seding unit without pulling the tank. That should enable you to check the hard lines

When the suspension cycles up it stops the movement of the axle before the tire contacts the fender area.