Tactical Bacon

I would say rescue the hell out of it, but the owner is probably too much of a ding@#$% to realize it isn't worth what he wants and so it'll probably sits there as he turns down reasonable offers of $500.

The Supreme Court has ruled that unconstitutional laws have no legal weight. Though, good luck telling that to the ATF if they find you with an unregistered DIAS. >.> <.<

That's tight butthole right there.

For 2500, that joker better be mint with under 80k miles and fill its own gas.

You should save yourself the headache and just sell it to someone who knows they are going to 4x4 swap their Manche, not unlike myself.

If you end up where you can't use them, I'll buy those rear flares.

Curt Manufacturing 31084. Class 3 Front Mount Receiver Hitch. $169.99 at Advance AutoParts.

A rotard powered MJ would be cool for the unique factor, but that would be about it. Ever ride in an RX7? Don't make any power without a turbo and the power doesn't hit until the last 2-3k rpm. Also, torquey? When you said that, I about lost it haha. It has a very flat torque curve, sure, but it's down there really low, numberwise. If you want to make it a street screamer (and you don't mind ruptured eardrums) I say throw a 3 rotor in it, boost, and enjoy the stares. If you want to wheel it with a rotary, well, I'll keep my mouth shut since I don't feel like getting banned.

Get well soon, man. Something the Army drilled into me was checking for ticks every time you get back from being out in the woods and having someone check the spots you can't see. Lyme is some bad juju.

License plate lamp assemblies and harness for those license lights intact? I need them and the driver side tail light housing.

The suspense is of killing me, comrade.

Hope everyone's okay and not in for a long stay.

PM Sent

Depends on how the rollbar mounts and the dimensions.

Pilot bearing will be different. I'll go find the thread and link it into here. Rear driveshaft will be different length, too. Front axle and DS should be good to go along with the other bits and pieces. Not sure on the clutch. Edit: http://comancheclub.com/topic/39295-np231-for-ax-15/

Yeah, the Bosch pump unit comes with an upgraded wiring harness. And sounds like a winning plan. Lots of pictures be good.

You should be able to get from your local Advance Autoparts Bosch PNs 69302 (pump) and 68026 (strainer) and Spectra PN LO01 (lock ring).

What you're running into is the tools that run the websites list the same sending unit as the Cherokee as fitting the Comanche. Such is not the case. That is an XJ Fuel Pump Assembly and will not fit. You cannot buy an MJ Fuel Pump Assembly from a parts store anymore. All you can get are the bits that go on the assembly (fuel pump and wiring harness and hoses and clamps by themselves) which is the same between the 2 vehicles. If you want to replace the whole sending unit, some members here have had success by replacing the tank with a 22gal unit from a early 90s Dakota and using the Dakota's assembly as well.

If the driverside tail light is intanct, I need it. That, and the license plate lamp wiring harness and the bulb housings. Hell, if you can get the entire tail light harness, I could use it. Mine's a bit hacked up.

Something sounds off to me. Mine runs about 15 mpg before adjusting for oversized tires. Comes up to like 18 mpg. According to the sticker in the glove box, stock size on mine was about 26 and now I'm running 31s. Stock 3.07 rear gears behind a 4.0/AX15 2wd combo. Ridiculously undergeared. You should be doing better than that. Also, I agree on upsizing tires. Easier, looks better, and cheaper.

Moog PN CC784 will give you about 2.25" lift over stock up front. Moog PN CC782 will give you about an inch. They're the same number for V8 ZJs and 4wd MJs, 782, that is. 784s are the Up Country equivalents.

I'm not going to wait too long, just until the weather isn't trying to turn me into a popsicle. Then I'll be out there swapping that hard line to the 90 Comanche clutch hose. Though, hopefully, by that point in time I'll actually be throwing a 4x4 swap into it which means that I'll be dropping the old transmission out so the line will be coming off, regardless. And I doubt I'll spend $20 on an adapter because that would mean buying another 91 clutch MC (I returned the one I bought since I went with a 90) which would be another $40 since I can just warranty out the Master cylinder and the clutch hose.

Well, WiFi is out right now so pictures will have to wait, but I have been successful! I took 60" of 1/4" brake line, bent it (poorly and ugly, had to straighten then rebend it since I forgot to slide a fitting to one end before I bent it the first time, d'oh, but it works), got a 90 Comanche clutch master from my local O'Reilly's, and was thinking, heck yeah gonna be easy and get this done. That was yesterday. Got the new master installed, the bent line in place, then went to disconnect the slave fitting from the old hose. Didn't move. At all. Heat, pb, vice grips, etc., did nothing to help. Cursing and then praying also didn't help. So today, I got a pipe cutter, some line bolts, and a flaring tool from my job at Advance. Got home, bundled up for the 20* weather, and went to work. Cut the old line off the slave right by the old fitting, put the new fitting on, flared the line, tightened everything (used a coupler between the slave line and the new hydraulic line), bled that b*@$£ and now I can start it in gear and shift without grinding! Got the proper clutch hose for a 90 Manche on order from NAPA. Pick that up tomorrow and sit on it until the weather warms up and replace my crackhead line when it's sunny and 80* outside.

Yeah. I'll just have to dead stick the Jeep to work tomorrow, order the master and line from a 90 Jeep, pick 'em up on Sunday, and pray hard when I get home. The hydraulic line does have the threaded connection on the end where it attached to the line from the slave going into the bellhousing.

That's the metal fitting that was on the end of the line. See how it broke off?