Tactical Bacon

Egads, man. That Kia is worse than the Aztek.

In regards to that Chrysler 2.4 DOHC, I know a bit about it. I previously owned a 2006 Chysler Sebring Sedan equipped with the EDZ and, even with a 4 speed slushbox, saw a bit more than the EPA estimated 22 in the city, 30 on the highway. The Chrysler EDZ engine is a non-interference design with a 9.4:1 compression ratio that makes 150 hp at 5500 rpm and 160 lb ft of torque at 4200 rpm. When turbocharged, it was known as the EDT, had an 8:1 compression ratio and power levels went as high as 245 hp at 5500 rpm and 260 lb ft at rpms as low as 2200. Iron block, aluminum heads. The EDZ and EDV have different blocks and heads but it is possible to pull everything off an SRT-4 and install it on an EDZ. It's a nice little motor, but I'm not sure it's what you're looking for. However, if you were to turbocharge it, get an SRT4 head, etc., you can make some wicked power out of them. There's someone who turboed their EDZ in an 05 Sebring Sedan and they run low 12s (maybe high 11s by now) in the 1/4 (had to rebuild the trans haha).

Day 1. PB Blaster it that morning. PB Blaster it in the evening. Day 2. PB Blaster it in the morning. Start work that afternoon. PB Blaster it, wait 30 minutes, blast it again and then start working. Do what jimoshel said about hand wrench and then impact. You can also try the loctite freeze break-free. Supposed to be wonderful.

Be cautious with putting Seafoam in the oil and then driving around for a while. I've heard many a tale of spun bearings resulting from such practices. Personally, I recommend half a can and idle for 10 minutes before an oil change. Works pretty well for me.

Well college money is already gone thanks to moving bills. Talk about an unexpected expense. As far as going to court with witness testimony goes, it's worthless in this area b/c the pedestrian witness is white, I'm white, and the person that hit me is black. Nothing against black people or anything, this area just has a bad case of the "atonement for our ancestors" bull$#!& going on. I even have diagrams and mathematical proof based on speeds and times between events that prove that she had to have been doing 50 and run a red to hit me and nobody even batted an eye at it. As far as getting a gas saver goes, that's what the Jeep's role was, to save me gas money. I can barely afford to feed my Firebird the premium that it needs. I'm just glad the frame on it isn't bent. Right now I'm looking at about $350 to get it on the road again (new leaf, shock, u joints and u joint strap kit, and clutch set).

Good news and bad news. Good news: Frame isn't bent. Crack in the windshield was just where a crack that was at the bottom spread out. Tire and suspension absorbed most of the impact. Bad news: They ruled in the other person's favor (big surprise there...) and I just finished moving so I'm too broke to buy the parts that I need. But it shall live once again!

Great to hear, soon as I get some extra money, I'm buying a 3" kit from y'all.

Ehhhh....cut the frame, make a truggy? Then who cares if its bent or not! And a bent frame can still be fixed, professionally or otherwise. Tboned some tweakers that ran a red light, driving a 97 dodge doing ~45 when i hit em, tweaked the drivers side of the frame about 2". Was pulled back out, and tracks straighter now than it did pre-accident. Just went back and re read the original post. If the impact broke the windshield, its safe to say the frame and unibody are both bent pretty bad. If your unibody is tweaked the truck is pretty much effed. can't really straighten a unibody. :nuts: :doh: :rotf: But yeah if it knocked out the driveshaft, which easily messed up his transmission, and cracked the windshield. His truck is done for. No two ways about it. No insurance company is going to pay to get that fixed, it will get totaled out. And if he chooses to buy it back it will cost a lot more to get it fixed than what theyre going to give him for it. IMO if it was me, I would buy it back get as much money for it as possible. Buy another truck, part out the wrecked, one then scrap it. :dunno: Not necessarily on the drive shaft...if it broke his springs (I'm assuming he means the ubolts or maybe the shackles?), it could have twisted enough and just dropped out. Usually you have to hit the driveshaft dead on and hard to grenade the transmission. Just a possibility...but I'm kinda arguing for the sake of the arguement at this point. Regardless its probably totaled, and if the unibody is that warped, there's probably nothing good that hasnt been tweaked slightly aside from the interior. The impact broke the actual leaf itself that bolts to the vehicle along with breaking the the shock in two. And it sheared the bolts on one of the u-bolt straps and bent the piss out of the other. It was 10 p.m. on a Saturday night. I was surprised the one pedestrian witness was there. The other traffic that was waiting there had their thumbs up their asses and they weren't paying any attention. The witness supported my story but that means dick-all when the other person is black in my area.

Pulled muscle in my neck and back spasms. The lying [expletive] that hit me can go swing from a tree. Green light my hairy @$$. I'm thinking the tire absorbed some of the impact because it's flat now. That and the leaf springs on the other side are knocked halfway off their perch. Near as I can tell, the impact forces when through the axle and knocked it over to the side. Spun me pretty good, too. As far as the frame goes, it looks fairly straight from under it but I can't be for certain until I take the bed off. Yeah, I probably would be better off finding another one, but I want to try my best to save the Bacon. These trucks are already scarce enough and I don't want the Jeep Community to have to lose another one. Pictures will come once I can get my camera connected to my computer and my computer connected to the internet all at once.

Well, after searching for a year and owning it for less than a month, someone ran a red and nailed my MJ in the side. She hit the right rear tire dead center at about 50 mph. Broke the leaf and shock on the passenger side, knocked out the driveshaft, (fairly certain) it ruined the bed, cracked the windshield, Broke the tail light assembly, and took the last leg out from under my slave cylinder. So, since I just got some college money and suspension components need to be replaced, I decided I'm going to go ahead and lift it and put some 30x9.5s on it. If anyone has recommendations on parts to go after or avoid, please enlighten me. I'm looking for some moderate lift (3-5") but want to avoid AAL kits and (for now) going SOA. I was eyeballing Rusty's Offroad 4.5" lift kit but Ive read a lot of bad things about their products online. Also, is there anything I should look for in particular on the vehicle while repairing/upgrading it? So, please help me save the Bacon because I don't want to let my Jeep get scrapped or just sit there unused. As it sits, my plan is to replace rear fand front suspension components with lift components, replace the gear oil in the differential and inspect the internal components, drop the transmission, replace the clutch and slave cylinder, replace the gear oil in the transmission, have my driveshaft inspected then re-install it, then, depending on finances, either have the alignment done or buy new tires (thinking of some Firestone A/Ts) and have that all done.

Thanks for the welcome! Don't worry, I'll do something to offend or piss you off, too, eventually. :thumbsup: haha I was worried about that, too. I was afraid the headlight switch was bad and had high beams and low beams reversed. No module in the HOs Charlie. The timer is controlled by the ECU. :thumbsup: Of course, I'm sure the OP knows this......... Yup. I researched the Maint Req'd light before asking about it. I do want tips and tricks. I was just asking if there were any aside from the few I was able to find. I would also love to be able to afford an FSM. And that makes sense. Pete, he didn't ask why the headlights were upside down. Whatever he intended to ask, what he did ask was IF they are upside down. ] Context, please. "So, I'm postulating that they might have been installed upside down deliberately because of the brushguard installed on it." I then asked if someone had insights regarding a deliberate installation of headlights in the upside down position. I should have omitted the sentence asking if they could be installed upside down because all that did was make my post more confusing. Your post (#4 in the thread) was hardly polite, to either me or to Hornbrod. If that's your idea of "polite," I don't want to hang with your group of friends. I did not insult, attack, degrade, or humiliate you. I did not ignore you or reply (initially) in a sardonic manner. Now, if you know a more polite way of saying you already possess certain knowledge than saying, "I know that if I ....... then ........" then please illuminate me. I crave knowledge. Also, the read upside-down/backwards thing was an attempt to be funny, so you know and don't attack me over that next.

And hence the issues of text rear their ugly heads. I try to be polite and frank with you and you get a major case of recto-cranial insertion because I don't bend over backwards to kiss your feet in thanks for the wonderful advice you gave me when I've read it in several other websites. But don't get me wrong, I genuinely appreciate that you put forth the effort and the intention there-in. I've been on several forums where a simple question goes unanswered and ignored for days on end while receiving hundreds of views.

Eagle, I knew they were upside down. I was wondering if there would be a reason for them to be installed upside down deliberately. Also, your method is flawed; I can read upside down and/or backwards. hornbrod, I'm not the average knuckle-dragger and actually read the owner's manual so I know what it's for and such. I was just wondering if anyone knew a trick for turning it off aside from bulb removal. I like to leave bulbs in their place. One of my quirks. In regards to the fault codes, I didn't want to disconnect the battery and set off [another] Code 12. The Code 24 and occasional shudder when applying the accelerator, even after cleaning the connection, lets me know I need to replace the TPS. And this isn't my first rodeo. I know that if you clear the codes and the problem remains, they will come back. I'm not trying to be a smartass or snarky to anyone, I'm just smarter than your average bear.

So my wonderful new off/road warrior is a 1991 Jeep Comanche Pioneer. Short bed, 4.0 HO, AX15 and 2wd (with 4x4 stickers on the side? I don't get that one). It has about 206k miles and is in pretty good shape overall. So, I already know I need a DRB 2 to reset the maintenance req'd light, I need to replace my TPS (unless there's some common problem with them I am not aware of), and a few other things. What I need to know right now is if there's a way to clear CEL codes without a scanner, cycling the key 50 times, etc., and more importantly, if the headlights can be installed upside down. I was driving home tonight and couldn't see my lights on the road and when I got home, I realized my low beams were shining halfway up the side of the house and my high beams were aimed lower to the ground. So, I'm postulating that they might have been installed upside down deliberately because of the brushguard installed on it. The guard intercepts the top and bottom edges of the lights and blocks them somewhat. Does anyone have insight in regards to this?