Tactical Bacon

Just that simple, I am shut out of my Comanche because the doors refuse to unlock. I believe the cold snap today finally dealt the final blow to the little plastic clips or some such inside the door. There's no way to access the inside of it (without busting out a window) so I'm trying to jimmy the lock with a coat hanger. Spent an hour and a half on it earlier to no avail. I can see down in there and see stuff moving. In regards to the driver side door, when I press the button, there's a rod that goes down and a lever under the latch that moves up. When I turn the key, the cylinder just turns. It doesn't try to move the lever attached to it up or down. It looks like there should be a c-clip on the end of it. Passenger side, I can't see down in there but on that side, when I turn the key in the door lock the inside lock button moves just barely. Does anyone have some advice on what I should try to hook onto so I can try and get a door open? Or perhaps a diagram that shows the layout of the bits and pieces and how they go together?

Moog/National/Driveworks are all manufactured by Federal Mogul.

I want to say Permatex makes some. I think we have it for like 7 bucks at Advance. Also, you might try some heat on it.

One thing you might try is shifting it through the other gears to see if that helps. I know with mine, it doesn't like to go into Reverse at times, even after driving it a while, so I'll shift it into 3rd before going into reverse. Works every time for me. Also, try bleeding your clutch slave cylinder. It's really quick and if that helps the issue, you could have other problems.

*weeps internally* I need a M5 4x4 swap for my Jeep.

$2.50 per filter, can't beat that.

I am needing the lenses, lense retaining clips, and wiring harness.

Yeah, the oil filters went from 22mm? to 3/4x16 thread pattern in 91. Got a sticker on my firewall.

That's a change I hadn't heard about. Must have been in the last year. But good to know, I don't like to badmouth good products.

Starting about 4 years ago, Microguards went from being made by Purolator and being good filters to being made by Fram. So no, they're junk. Nowhere close to Wix. As far as running Seafoam in your crankcase, it's fine if you throw it in for 5 minutes of idling before you change the oil but driving around with it in there is asking, nay, begging for a spun bearing. Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer is essentially a very heavy oil without any additives in it. Froths up very easily and can starve the engine of oil. All it does is mask a problem brought on by improper maintenance and/or general wear.

Here's one in West TN: http://jacksontn.craigslist.org/cto/4578082581.html

Gotta say that dually makes it look mean....this is giving me bad ideas. :thumbsup:

Why not lay the new one on top of the old one and line the bolts up that way? I mean, to me it just makes sense to compare new parts and old parts side by side when you can.

My local club seems to have better luck with the Spicers I can get them over the Moogs I keep in stock. That being said, the Moogs work pretty well most of the time for them.

Shee-it, I always get that screwed up even though I run a set of the damn things. :fs1: :wall: Many thanks for corrections! :bowdown: If an admin would be so kind to correct my mistake? Or how do I change the title?

Glad to hear it. Might be wise to invest in a keyhook to go beside the door at home.

Short bed. Long bed curved down and bolted to the top of the wheel wells.

I call it stiff but I don't see rough. It's what the majority of my club runs and we're all happy hunky dory.

One of those times where it's good to tell us what you have so we can better help you.

http://memphis.craigslist.org/pts/4373428757.html 5 wheels with tires, fullsize spare, $200. May get this myself.

SHENANIGANS!

Aw, I missed out on the Fools Day shenanigans? Dang. That was just plain evil from the sound of it hahaha.

To me, it seems that RC cleaned up their act a couple of years ago. Seems that most of the complaints I've seen are around 3-4 yrs or older. My personal experience with them has been excellent and I'm personally acquainted with one of the employees there. YMMV, though.

where is this switch located i have not been able to find the switch. On my AX15, it's on the passenger side. But I dunno where it would be if you have the AX4, AX5, AW4, or TF727.

PN LF12 at AAP. Made by Triton (Novita Tech), supposed to be the loudest flasher you can get (if you believe their packaging).