Tactical Bacon

I put some new j-hook wiper arms on her tonight, much better wiper-to-windshield contact now. Now I just need to sort the driver washer nozzle not spraying well. She's also getting a new front end this weekend, 4 ball joints, 4 tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, shorter sway bar links, and a track bar all supposed to be delivered Friday but they'll probably sit till Sunday so I can check out the local yard on Saturday.

I'm thinking it isn't a bleeding issue because it was the same before I replaced rear brake parts for being rusty and frozen. Topper could definitely be cool but I'm aiming for a tonneau cover at this point in time.

Lightning round on updates. Since September the following has occured: Cleaned and painted the 3 pane slider, still not installed Installed rear bumper brackets and rear bumper Replaced the front shocks with some from a 2wd 1st gen Explorer since the DF was completely blown out Cruise control has stopped working, probably the cheap flea-bay switch Wipers are bugged out again, seems to be a problem with the multi-function switch on the intermittent setting this time Pulled apart and painted the spare header panel that came with it only to realize it's from an 86-88 Got some strong Velcro to strengthen the attachment of the headliner Hooked up the AC machine at work and got Kaede blowing literal ice out the vents Replaced the outer window wipes Fixed the speedometer reading wrong and installed a different speedometer gear Replaced all the speakers and added front tweeters (not happy with their current location behind the dash) Replaced the ashtray light bulb (didn't even know it had one) Tried bleeding the brakes today, didn't seem to make any change with how the rears engage, got good fluid flow, though, no air during the bleeding, bled the emergency circuit, too, and I've got all new hardware and wheel cylinders back there so I'm not sure what the deal is. Fixed and sold the GS300 to fund my trip to Japan Continued to ignore the play in the drag link and pitman arm tie rod

Late follow-up, but I found the source of the problem. For anyone else with a similar issue, check your vehicle speed sensor. The nut where the VSS screws onto the speedo gear housing like a cable would was loose. I tightened that to snug and my speedometer read accurately with the exception of the variance caused by tire size, subsequently resolved by changing the gear. In hindsight, it would've been obvious had I known what the VSS looked like on these, I've never actually put eyes on one before. I had almost the same problem in the past with an 80 Firebird I used to own.

Wouldn't hurt to record a video of it running and posting it for everyone's listening pleasure.

It returns to 5 MPH, needle completely horizontal, which is the normal resting position as far as I can tell based on pictures of other speedos around the internet. It's the MJ in my sig so an HO with an electric speedo. Well, yes, it will, but it isn't going to fix the problem. I bought the truck with ~27.4" diameter tires which was the factory tire size for my MJ and the speedo was off by 5 mph then. I even noticed it the day I got it when I was getting passed by everyone on the interstate even though the speedo said 75. Pulled out the GPS on the phone and it said 70. It's definitely a possibility, needle in the wrong spot on the spindle was my first thought, too. I had a similar issue when I replaced all the instrument panel bulbs in a 95 Ranger I owned. It required removing the needle from the speedo to get to the bulbs and when I reassembled it my speed was off. Manual said to supply a specified voltage to the speedometer then apply the needle to the gauge pointed at a specific speed. Internet said to install the speedo in the truck and slide the needle on while driving down the road with a gps or someone pacing you. What I did was guess, test drive, and guess again. This may apply here, I just can't find any information on it and didn't want to get to yanking parts before I asked to see if someone else knew. I'll probably end up yanking mine this weekend after I swap the gear and see how far I can take it down. Hopefully I find something and don't need to buy another speedometer.

So as the title says, the speedometer in my Manche is off by 5 mph all the time. At 10 mph it says 15, at 30 it says 35, at 70 it says 75, and so on. Odometer tracking doesn't appear to be affected by this discrepancy. I can't find anyone with the same issue, every thread I find is people having their speedometer off because of re-gearing or changing tire sizes (which I do have but that didn't start until after I went to a new tire size and is separate from this issue (I also have the new gear to fix this)). Any ideas?

Used the fabric that came with my SMS Headliner to re-cover a pair of visors that arrived in the mail yesterday. Very easy job with the plastic core visors and came out pretty well for my first time trying it. Just need some screws to install them now.

Installed my headliner from SMS over the weekend before last along with fixing my wiper delay module with a new transistor. I also picked up a 2001 GS300 with a blown head gasket at work today for only $500 and I'm thinking about swapping the 2JZ into the Comanche since it's lowered and meant to be a street weapon. Had the idea on my own when I had an 02 GS300 earlier this year and was considering swapping its engine to my Cherokee before I traded the GS for my Comanche but it has been done before. Thread: https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1033211

I feel like it would be a bit pricey because of the labor involved because all the components on the board would need replacing since they're probably all as rough and crusty on the inside as mine and another one I bought (that also turned out to be bad) were.

The transistors are pretty easy to check with an Ohmmeter that has a diode function on it. For this particular transistor you should have continuity going from the Base towards the Collector (left and middle pin), continuity from the Base towards the Emitter (left and right pins), but no continuity from the Emitter towards the Base or Collector. I've seen people in the various XJ forums report back with success in older forum posts. Supposed to be a lot beefier and resilient with the heat sink that's on it. Also saw where one fellow even tried a Chevy module and it worked fine except it lacked the washer pump/wipe output.

The pile of parts I want to install but can't grows! Got a hitch from @krustyballer16 and it fit great after a few coats of epoxy paint! But that does mean I'm running no bumper right now as the one on there and its brackets were modified by the previous owner to be a rollpan and won't fit. So I bought a new rear bumper from @Pete M, great to meet him on his trip up the country, but brackets didn't make the trip by accident so that sits in the shed, its existence tantalizing to me. I also got a very nice 3 pane slider from him but he made me aware that the 4 pane slider in my truck does not use the factory gasket so I have to find one of those, too. Lastly, today I got my new headliner in from SMS and it looks nice but I'm missing 3 of the 4 hook strips in the cab of my Jeep that would secure it. So I'm thinking tomorrow I may clean and re-paint the slider window so it's ready to swap in once I get a new gasket.

A few months ago, Kaede developed an issue where the wiper delay stopped working. When you first turned it to delay it would default to low speed wipers, the return to home function didn't work except for when the mist function was used, and High was actually slower than Low. I verified continuity across the Delay Module and the wiring from the Wiper Switch, then checked power and grounds on the vehicle side of the connector. Everything checked out but I noticed that when I unplugged and replugged the delay module, the delay function would sometimes work as intended until the switch was set to Low, then the problem returned. I started by drilling out the rivets holding the two halves of the module together so I could pry it apart. Next, by combining the factory wiring diagram for the inputs and outputs with a diagram of the circuit board I was able to find online, I eventually was able to use my ohm meter to figure out that the transistor on the board had failed internally. It's a TIP-120 transistor and I was able to find a 10 pack on Amazon for $5. After that, it was as simple as de-soldering the old component from the board and attaching the replacement. I'm still sorting out how to reattach the case halves. The holes are about 3mm diameter so a #4 or #5 machine screw should work to hold them together. I also might have rivets small enough but I'd have to track down my rivet set to know for sure. For now I just taped it together with electrical tape and after verifying the repair, left it installed in the Jeep since I've been driving it a bit lately.

Ready to Buy Charcoal Sam Moore

Had a very similar problem in my 91 MJ 4.0 AX15. I could bleed the clutch hydraulics and the problem would disappear for a few weeks then return. It ended up being a faulty slave cylinder in my case but a faulty pressure plate can cause similar symptoms. Definitely recommend replacing the fluid in the clutch system with new and if it has a bleeder screw, try to bleed it, too.

Wednesday had a busy afternoon after I got off work. Turns out the passenger side wasn't quite all the way down so the drum could still move back and forth on the studs independently of the axle and wheel. The fit for the passenger wheel was also so tight I had to manage to pop the center cap out and use a 3-jaw puller to remove the wheel from the hub. It didn't take much to knock down the high spots and now that wheel slips right off and on without too much difficulty. Driver side only took a few stern smacks from a deadblow hammer to remove it and got the same treatment. Right now the front fender flares are both about 27.75" off the ground, the passenger rear is 28.5", and the driver rear is 27.5" because of the sag in the leaf springs on that side. Cruise control stalk also got the wires routed down the steering column. The trick it turns out is to put mechanic's wire through the hole in the metal prongs of the plug once you have it inside the column and it'll pull it right down. Seafoamed the intake through the booster hose, replaced the brake fluid in the master cylinder, then today I replaced the coolant temp sender and got the gauge working.

I think I have a good condition used handle if you're needing a replacement. I'll have to go out and check tomorrow.

Drove the truck to work on Friday and corrected the toe on my lunch break. I thought I had a little toe out after installing the new parts but I actually had 3.5* of toe in! Took 10 minutes and the steering wheel was even straight after. Then yesterday UPS dropped off the 2" steel block kit with u-bolts that I ordered from Rusty's Offroad Products so it was off to the races to install them. I also put in the rear ZJ coils that came with the truck and it looks pretty good. Hopefully it rides well but if not, I can take a coil or two out of the springs that were in it.

@CaptainPatchy I just put the same style of wheels on my Eliminator in black with some 275/40R17s. What size of tire do you have on yours and what pressure do you run yours at?

"He did not, in fact, resolve that problem the same night." Borrowed a carbide bit from my coworker today and after I got home, clearanced the other two wheels to fit on the rear. Only, I may not have removed enough material as they are currently quite stuck... But they're flush to the drum and torqued to spec so it's gtg on that front and looking good. I found a rabbeting bit online that can cut small enough to still have a snug but non-interference fit so I'll eventually order it and a router to modify the wheels on the front before I'm due for a rotate along with figuring out how to remove the rear wheels without damaging them so I can take a bit more off them. I also stretched out on my wet driveway to replace the tie rod ends and adjuster for setting total toe since the old ones were seized up stiff to each other. That means an alignment on my lunch break and eating fast but I don't want these new tires to wear too fast.

Yeah, that was my worry when I couldn't get their website to load. Here's hoping they can get back to it soon, I really would like to put one on mine. I feel it would accentuate the lowered sport truck look.

Clocked out a little early at work to mount my new tires, old ones in the front were bald as an old guy in a hentai. These reproduction wheels from LMR fit great! except the hub centering rings on the drums are like 2 or 3 mm too large and they won't slip over... Hopefully I can resolve that tonight, also stopping for new lug nuts on the way home.

So, I just got off the phone with Downey Products Northeast and apparently they are currently out of raw materials for the manufacture of new tonneau covers. So right now, no covers are available from them for Comanches.

There could be sludge inline with the OPSU causing a low reading. Your first step should be to verify oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. Next, it may be worth trying a crankcase cleaner, like dumping half a can of Seafoam in with the oil and driving as normal for a few days before you change the oil. I'd also suggest trying running a pipe cleaner down through the hole where the OPSU screws in, I had a problem with a port partially blocked by sludge on my 91 MJ and cleaning it out took care of chronic low oil pressure readings on my dash gauge.

Relocated the vacuum ball back to its stock location over the weekend and hooked up the vacuum lines to the cruise control actuator. Also ordered a cheapo switch off ebay so I should have working cruise soon. Old tires on the Jeep are pretty well worn so I decided to go ahead and bite the bullet on wheels and tires since I plan to lower it. Found reproduction Terminator Cobra wheels, a set of 17*9 and ordered them Thursday, should be here Wednesday. Decided to wrap them in the factory Cobra size and ordered the cheapest tires I could through work, about $130 each before taxes. Wonder if it'll still do a burnout...