Tactical Bacon

How's it going, Jeepsters? Been a long time since I last posted here, almost 4 and a half years! Sadly I was forced to move July 2018 and the new place had a strict "no junk cars" policy so the Franken-Heep ended up going to a local You-Pull-It yard. I hope it lives on in other Jeeps in and around West TN. Some good news since then, I managed to find a 67 Firebird 400 for a long term project and dropped an engine and trans in it last year, bought a house, bought a 2006 LS430 to be a super comfy daily driver, currently working on flipping a 2002 GS300, and after almost 6 years I may finally get the body damage on my Trans Am fixed from where that cop wrecked me. Still miss the 'Manche, though, and always on the lookout for another one. Hope everyone else is doing well.

That's sad to hear. My thoughts are with the family. I've worn my seatbelt religiously since I started driving and evidenced by my latest forum topic, they certainly work.

The new XJ in question. 1998 Jeep Cherokee Classic with 224k miles, power windows and locks, a/c, and pretty much everything except for power seats and 4wd. Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk

I think we all need to know the story behind that. I mean, hot diggity that thing looks like The Hulk started humping it. In other news, I managed to find a 98 XJ at the start of August and all I can say is the Lord blessed me beyond measure with that.

This was the daily. My other ride being fixed is contingent to an ongoing legal battle with the city. Won't steer to the left more than an inch or two past straight. And I just took a quick look so the pitman may be fine. I didn't really have fresh steering components handy for reference.

Yeah, just won't take me anywhere at the moment. The hunt for replacement transportation starts in a frantic state. Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk

Well, I think the fat lady is singing for the Franken Heep today. Rolled it into a ditch today and crawled out under my own power. Officer said the roof should have collapsed and squashed me (I'm 6'3"). Bent the front beam tube, the gearbox is leaking, and I'm fairly certain the pitman arm got bent, too. Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk

If you're just starting with a basic 4wd swap and/or small lift on the Jeep, then most of the parts from an XJ will work. You can get a front axle from a TJ/YJ/ZJ/XJ if I remember correctly and it should be direct bolt-on. Transfer case will be the same for most of the NP231/242 from older ZJs and the TJ/YJs. You will need either a different transmission (RWD and 4WD units are different lengths) or convert your transmission to work (a much more involved and difficult process) with a transfer case. There's also the matter of matching input and output shaft lengths and tooth counts on the engine, transmission, and transfer case. You'll also need a new rear driveshaft, though the front driveshaft from an XJ can be used.

Dorman P/N are 68181 for Black and 68155 for Chrome finish for the GM Step Bumper style license plate light holders. I put a pair of them on my truck. Here's the problem: the metal spring clip that goes behind the bumper to hold the assembly in is not included with the light assembly and I haven't been able to successfully find them in a parts store because I need one for mine. GM OEM Number is 16503699 and they're available on like eBay and such.

Preachin' to the choir.

I'd probably start by getting an automotive stethoscope and checking to see if it's predominantly coming from one pulley or the other. If you don't have a stethoscope, run it up to temperature then turn it off, take the belt off, and check that all the pulleys spin freely. Also, ensure that the harmonic balancer pulley isn't starting to separate. Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk

Generally at the extremes of the temperature range the ecu will add fuel. It doesn't really pull advance when the coolant is too cold but it will pull 5-15* on most FI vehicles at high temperatures. Without temperature input, the ECU will default to a certain range of values once it goes into closed loop mode that will limit timing and add fuel to protect against detonation. Some vehicles will also stay in open loop when there is no input from a coolant temperature sensor. Open loop is bad because the computer doesn't process any input from the O2 sensor, MAP, IAT, or ECT.

Something is stopping the alternator from charging the vehicle. I'd suggest bench testing the alternator to make sure it's putting out voltage then go from there on checking whether you have a loose wire. You can also turn the key to the on position and see if you have voltage from the signal wire if you find your multimeter, normally 12V.

Is it a constant squeal once the sound starts? Or a chirping noise? Does the sound seem to happen at a set interval while the engine is idling? Does it get better or worse when you give it gas?

I'm just a bit curious as to what everyone runs the gap at in their 4.0s. Last Wednesday when I was replacing the valve cover gasket (again) on my 91 I decided to check my spark plugs because it seemed like I was losing a bit of fuel economy. In my infinite wisdom, I got it in my head that they were supposed to be gapped at 0.060 instead of 0.035 (which I now remember verifying they were at when I put them in) and opened them up. Bad move you would think, right? Well, I can't notice that much of a difference. Cold start up actually seems faster now than before I opened up the gap. Not sure how the fuel mileage has changed since I did that midway through my current tank and I need to go fill up. So, back to my curiosity. What gap does everyone else set their plugs at, and what brand and material plug do you run? I personally use the Champion RC12LYC and these have about 13000 miles on them over the past 3 years.

That's some really great advice about the regulators in your second paragraph. The passenger window is a pain to roll up/down on Chewie so I'll check that out when I get into it on a warm day.

Get a needle for your grease gun so you can grease chassis parts that don't have an zerk on them.

Heater Control Valve, P/N 74774 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-vacuum-non-bypass-closes-heater-valve-74774/15490011-P?vehicleIdFromReq=-1&isAllVehicle=true&vehicleIdSearch=-1&searchTerm=74774&showTitle=#fragment-1

When I was trying to jimmy it, I could see down inside the door and I could see the lock cylinder turning full range but the rod attached to it didn't move up or down.

Locksmart P/N DL48150 is a pair of Door Lock Cylinders and a pair of keys that will fit a 91 Comanche, not sure about other years.

What engine/transmission in it? Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk

Well I guess $#!& was just frozen last night because I got out to it today and the key unlocked the passenger side, I reached across the seat and unlocked the driver door from inside, and then the key worked to both lock and unlock the driver door so I'm borderline relieved but also ready to experience incoherent rage and kick my door more. Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk

That's a negative, ghost rider.

Pretty sure something is broken on the driver side. It looks broken. Passenger side, I'm not sure but someone did try to open it as I was unlocking it the other day. I managed to get it working again after that but who knows what it looks like in there.

I'm trying to avoid going full mongo with hammer just yet. Replacing a window means buying a window which means spending even more money I don't have.