Comanche County

I'm starting to think there is something impeding flow somewhere. I'd take the temp gun and measure the input and output rad hoses and compare to another vehicle, unless its obviously not cooling well. In that case, I'd say its flowing through the radiator, but not well enough and the rad needs a good flushing or replaced. Get two readings, first with no E fan, then with the E fan on.

Thanks for the compliment bro. I'd have to measure to be sure, but I've got 3" or 3.5" tubes on the front axle so it would be off. Those are 6.5" coils and I've got about 2.25" of ACOS space set. But with the weight of the front bumper, I think its settled at about 8". The rear is at least 8" maybe 9"...who knows. To be honest, I would like to lower it some day and cut the fenders all the way around, then go up in tire size. Maybe 37s. I still haven't hooked up the ARB airpump and lines to both lockers yet. I was hoping to build a Kilby style OBA set up, or buy from Kilby, then run the ARBs off a MCMaster Carr air manifold....but money is tight right now. Also,,,one of the pulleys is screaming like a banshee and it driving me nuts. Could be the belt, I just popped for a new 40 dollar serp belt, I'll try to tighten it and see what it does. ...and...the brakes still grab like a wet mop. I need to do that WJ booster and master cylinder swap asap.

No clue, if both ends are the same type as an MJ's and they're relatively the same length then they should. Check out their website or call em up and ask. From the pic on their website it looks like they might. I'm sure they have an application for an XJ or MJ, just remember MJ rear shocks are longer than XJs. http://www.gabriel.com/

I can't remember the exact page, but there's a real good one in the Projects page....I think he's in WA state. There's several others out there too.

Is your heater blowing good heat? What does the temp do with the heat on full blast?

The electric fan is supposed to kick on at 220 or whenever the A/C is on. Just follow the wires to the temperature switch. Its easy to find. If you have an IR temp gun, you can determine for sure if its kicking on at 220 or at an actual hotter temp. The Temp switch could be misreading. Did you flush the rad good?

Thats a tough one, I ended up using a 3/8" drill bit on the ZJs front end I rebuilt. But I wasn't working on the frame rails though. I do believe there are specialty bits that limit the depth. Might want to check Grainger or MSC.

Congrats, I'm happy for you.

Don't tell me you're driving to MOAB again.... :clapping: I'm jealous :fs1:

Richmond Hill area south of Savannah.

Its a SWB, I was just going off the ad.

Sorry Dude....here's one for you though...http://killeen.craigslist.org/pts/1914404371.html. I tried to get the topper but the lady isn't very good about returning emails. Its an 86', might have an AMC 20 in it.

Bullshiot. Unless you have a 2.5L. The 4.oh has a nice flat torque curve, so gearing is NOT a huge deal regardless. Besides, you can ALWAYS gear down. Some people don't seem to understand that you can't just hold a hill in 5th because you want to. You might lose a few tenths in the quarter to a regear, but it's really not that big of a deal. The gears are 4.56s...about right, IIRC, the GPS had me going 65 mph at 2500 rpm, should be fine on the highway. Think I'll go with jpnjim's idea of taking the junk first, then flying back for the MJ. I'm installing an auxiliary trans cooler on the ZJ for good measure also.

Here's what it looks like.

Awesome tent trailer! I like it!

Not the kind you're thinking of. I'm about to move and I'm set to haul the MJ on a Big Tex 70-CH 20' trailer and pull it behind the 5.9 ZJ. I know I'm pushing the limits of the ZJ's towing capability and I think I'm going to change plans. Went for a 20 mile test haul today to get the rig weighed and lost the warm and fuzzy feeling I had about this idea. All together was 11,100 lbs. The MJ and the trailer alone weighed in at 6,680 lbs. That's without the 35" spare, tools, clothes, and the welder I was going to take. I imagine it would add another 400-500 with that stuff. The trailer is 2,200 according to the Big Tex website, that leaves the MJ weighing in at 4,480. Seems high for an MJ, but the 35"s are heavy and I've got a tool chest with tools, misc fluids and a high lift jack in the bed. I wanted to do it in one trip but it looks like I'll drive the ZJ to GA, then rent a Uhaul truck or a 3/4-1 ton truck and make a second trip back to TX for the MJ and trailer. If it was a shorter trip I'd do it, the ZJ has plenty of power and torque and I don't give a darn that Chrysler said it could only tow 5K lbs....it'll tow more. I've hauled around 7K before for about 200 miles. The ZJ will do it just fine...its a lot stronger than Dad's 94' 351W powered F250. But, this is a longer trip and thus increased chances for emergency breaking and maneuvers which makes the weight NOT OKAY. #1 - I don't want to have an accident and get someone else hurt or killed, #2 - I don't want to wreck the MJ, #3 - I don't want to get a ticket for being over the limit of the haul vehicle, #4 - I don't want to get killed. Or...I could sell the trailer and all my extra tools and junk and drive the MJ back on the return trip, or I could sell everything including the MJ and just find another one in GA and the fun will begin all over again, or sell the ZJ and trailer and just take the MJ.....but its got no A/C dangit.... Allright, I'm done venting. Everyone continue this....

Umm, I think "after" but with a hose, It probably doesn't matter. Just need to ensure its flowing clean because you don't want gunk in the engines cooling passages to block up the new rad, then fill it up with antifreeze mixture.

Great work man! I plan on doing that WJ booster swap also. Really like what you did with the interior.

YJ lines will work well. You can also bend the front hard lines and drill new mounting holes. They'll flex enough to gain a little more length, just be careful not to damage the lines. Bend them slowly by hand. Don't straighten them out so far down that they end up behind the shock or the shock could dig into line and damage it. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Sus ... t_Lift.htm You can do something similar to the rear. I still need to secure my rear hard line with a different bracket.

Looks like a brand new gas tank too.

Ah, a D44. Good score. :cheers: Looks like you've got 12 round title fight coming soon with the heavyweight champ, "Russ T. Rails".

Its fairly tough to do without the right equipment and is time consuming. Breaking the bead is easy, you can do that with a Hi-lift or any jack really using the weight of the Jeep. It's getting the tire over the edge of the rim that's the challenge. It can be done with a couple of standard tire tools but the longer the pry bars the easier it will be. There a several youtube videos demonstrating different ways to do it. Mobile tire repair guys usually have a specialized set of pry bars and there are several companies that make specialized tools to mount and dismount tires without a machine. Be careful if you try it. You're putting a lot of leverage on the tires and the pry bars can spring out and get you....if you use the flammable aerosol trick to "blow" the bead back on --- for God's sake only use a very small amount. I've done it, but I don't recommend it. It works, but its very dangerous, it can blow right through the tire. The safer method is to wrap a ratchet strap around the circumference of the tire and squeeze the bead close enough to get it to pop on with an air hose.

GO COWBOYS!

Lord, that was good!

My old 96 XJ Country model did it also, it was a 45 sec delay.