Comanche County

You said it right Eagle. I can't stand watching Baja or European Rally cars because of the possibility of something like this. Its a shame what happened, its more of a shame that someone, anyone, did not prevent it.

Its an 89' Pioneer, still on the road! Stats will be added soon. viewtopic.php?f=7&t=23972&start=0

Keep the faith brother, keep driving on!

Bringing back the thread because I just heard "Mabeline" by Chuck Berry on Scott Copeland's Ole Time Radio Hour on 95.9 The Ranch....for God's sake, get this song on your playlist!

Yeah I'll have to adjust the uppers to get more caster. It's too freaking hot right now. Thanks for the input. I guess I'll keep a close eye on the tire wear and see how it goes.

I just finished a new lift and axles. I know how to adjust the alignment but I wanted to get the camber checked by a computerized alignment machine. Now I'm wondering if I should get offset upper ball joints or should I just live with it? I'm thinking 1 degree offset uppers and it should help prevent premature tire wear. I'm running about 7-8" of lift and 35" tires. Any and all input welcome! :waving: Here's the results (all in degrees): Caster: Specs: 7.0 to 8.0 Left Initial: +0.4 Right Initial: 0.0 Left Final: +0.4 Right Final: 0.0 Camber: Specs: -.5 to +.5 Left Initial: -0.9 Right Initial: -1.4 Left Final: -0.9 Right Final: -1.3 Toe: Specs Left: -.5 to +.5 Specs Right: -.5 to +.5 Specs Total: -.15 to +.15 Left Initial: -0.8 Right Initial: -2.45 Total Initial: -3.25 Left Final: -1.65 Right Final: -1.6 Total Final: -3.25

You're in the right place brother.... Just for reference...http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Sus ... t_Lift.htm You can relocate the hard brake line as in Lunghd's budget lift page and use YJ brake lines. Works well. Don't hesitate to call vendors and ask if they have used parts. I got some used stuff from Motion on the Comanche's first go around. Also check out the classifieds here....I just sold RE drop brackets to a member for a steal. PS, that truck looks familiar, :cheers:

Few things in life are better than car parts all over the garage.

Ah, Shelton, WA. Brings back memories of elk hunting in the Capitol forest.

Nice truck, My seats looked similar when I got mine. I removed the seat covers, threw them in the washer and they came out good as new.

I love this MJ!

Yeah the tires are bias ply and they're loud. But they're really tough, especially the sidewalls and I can practically run them with no air pressure. They're a little squirmy on the highway but its not bad. I had a set of 33" radial Mickey Thompson Baja Claws that made the truck ride like a Bradley fighting vehicle and these are smooth and quiet compared to those.

Thanks guys! :cheers:

It touched 112 degrees today here in Comanche County, TX. I think I was the only fool working out in the heat all day. It payed off though, I made good progress. I picked up the driveshafts and the track bar from the machine shop. I had the track bar shortened, but when I picked it up it was too short. So I took it back and had it extended. Also, I had to lengthen the rear drive shaft and shorten the front. The rear yoke I got for the 241 was a 1310. I wish I would have got a 1330. So the rear is 1310x1310 and the front is a 1330x1330. I'm still running the original front drive shaft which is now has a front 1310/1330 conversion u-joint and a cv that has a 1310/1330 conversion u-joint at the transfer case. Later when I have a little bit of cash, I'll get a new 1330 rear output yoke for the Tcase and a 1330 yoke for the rear diff and a set of new "true 1330" driveshafts so both will be 1330s on both ends. Then I'll keep these for spares. I also got the passenger side upper control arm in and and the rest of the exhaust. Now I just need to align the wheels, test out the suspension travel, and test/refurbish the brakes. I also still need to plumb the ARBs and set up the compressor. Here's some shots of the almost finished product. I guess it will never be truly finished. I sold the Carr light bar that was on the cab. I don't miss the way it looked, but I like the extra light for offroad and on the highway at night. Especially around here where people hit deer or cows quite frequently. I'd like to get another set of KCs for the JCR bumper. I'll take any make really, I'm thinking a good quality rectangular set for a low profile, because its a little tough to see what's directly in front of the truck with the new lift. The front suspension: I have to say that the Down East kit steers like a dream. I'm running 30 psi in the 35" Maxxis Creepy Crawlers and the steering wheel turns effortlessly. I'm pretty stoked about it, and...there's zero bump steer, it handles great so far. Once I get to wheel it, I'll give a better review of the set up. ...and the cool hat I picked up at the dealership... It matches the CC sticker! :banana: I still need to do a lot to it but so far I'm happy with the new lift and axles.

Its got a Cherokee Country woodgrain instrument panel.

Those books are probably the brainchild of a generations old conspiracy committed by the nation's mullet totin', polyester suit wearin', 28% interest loanin, no good used car salesmen. No one would ever buy the books if they told the real value of a vehicle.

I sold the Ford. Made a deal with a guy who was restoring one and needed some original steel. He said it was a 28' or 29' Sport Coupe with a rumble seat. He said the doors were good, as well as the paneling around the tank, and the seat support. The price - one six pack of Shiner Bock...But he brought me a whole case! :cheers:

Yes, the way I have it now requires longer shocks. But its worth it. When I first installed a SOA 8.8 I flipped the plates like you have it and used my stock shocks but it only left a few inches of travel. I carried a lot of firewood at the time and the shocks would fully compress with hardly any load at all. Here's a pic of back then. So I thought of a bright idea to cut the shock plate and effectively lower the shock for more travel.....BAD IDEA! Also, its a bad idea to reuse the u-bolts or separate the shock plate and the inner (and thicker) u bolt plate. Read this thread and learn from my mistake that was almost a disaster. Take no short cuts here. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16269 Just get a plate like the one Pete posted and some new straight bolts. Or just weld the tabs and angle the shocks inward like Pete's and several others have their shocks set up....I'm going to do it - eventually. Also, I'm sure some one could hook you up with part numbers for shocks that you could pick up at any auto parts store.

Just for reference, here's mine. I plan to relocate the inner mounts to the bottom of the bed and angle them outward to the ends of the axle --- one day.

Maybe this was done back in 86' or 87' when there wasn't as much aftermarket support and its been a faithful DD ever since. I say buy and drive it! :D

A welder in the wrong hands can be a dangerous thing! On second glance though, I see he didn't neglect the control arms. I bet it rides nice... :rotf:

I'd like to put mine on a ramp when I get done with it to see what the score will be. I'd like my 35's to tuck under the fender, but I am also coming to realize that I'll need to relocate the flares and as much as I'd hate to; I'll have to trim or relocate the rear flares. I may add 1 or 2 hockey pucks on top of my 3" bump stops in order to match the travel of the shocks and to keep the 35" tires out of the fenders if they won't tuck in...and they probably won't with 3.75" of backspacing. I'll need limiting straps too....

Nice, thanks for posting that!

The front tire tucked under the fender nicely. Just wondering, are you running bumpstops?

I had the same problem on an XJ recently. It had a new radiator when I bought, it was getting hot on the highway from day one, so I replaced everything including the cat and put in a new spring in the lower radiator hose which was collapsing. It ran a little better but still warm on the highway. Turns out the new radiator was already clogged. I put in another radiator, flushed it at the same time and it ran perfect. If you can hear knocking in the exhaust, especially when you shut it off, it could be that the material inside the cat has broken free and is not allowing proper air flow.