Comanche County

WOW! :eek: Nice truck!

Thanks dude! :cheers:

AmJay is exactly right, I'm sorry I was a little confusing in my reply.

Well this morning I got out early before it got too hot I got the sway bar links welded on as well as the missing jam nut from the driver's side TRE. I mounted one of the sway bar links on the outboard side and one on the inboard side....I'm sure I'll bend these things into pretzels when I forget to pull the discos. They're mounted at slightly different heights and lengths relative to the axle because of the huge drag link and TREs, as well as the increased turning radius of the WJ/Down East knuckles. Also, my sway bar is a little twisted. I am becoming more confident with my little Lincoln welder. :D Soon, I'll be an all-grown-up Jeeper. :cheers:

You're a master at work!

Thanks man.

Thanks man, I'm about 80 miles SW of Fort Worth. Sometimes I miss the good ole days of a stock truck that would get 20-22 mpg though.

Nice work, you sound like an old pro at this.

Here's a shot of the NP241J with the flange mount removed and a 1310 yoke in its place. I thought the counter weight/balancer would stay on the output shaft but it came off with the flange. The yoke replaced it all and I lost about 1.5 inches. This put my drive shaft at max extension so I've got it dropped off at a machine shop to be extended.

I received the bracket to relocate the track bar. After several failed attempts to weld it, I finally got the metal sizzling and got it on. I was nervous at first because I'm not that great at welding but as I went on I could tell it going to stay,,,,its not coming off. Might not be the prettiest weld but it will work. Now I need to shorten my track bar about three inches.

Nice Truck!

Not sure if they can be adjusted in the lock cylinder, I doubt it. If the problem is the switch itself it isn't too hard to replace. You'll probably need a steering wheel puller and also another special tool for depressing the horn button ring which is under the steering wheel. You can do it with out the horn button tool but it makes things much easier. Some of the other guys on here are electrical geniuses and should be able to chime in on the specific cause.

Sounds like your doing it right to me. We must be related? :D

Whatever you do, DO NOT decide what the purpose of the truck will be and build it to that purpose. Don't research, don't plan, and don't develop goals. If you do develop goals, you can always ignore them. :smart: Just start buying any and all parts, stock or not, that you can. It doesn't really matter if you use them or not. Preferably spend your whole paycheck. I'm only saying this because I don't want you to miss out on all the fun of spending a lot of time and money on "stuff" that you will have to change later. Plus, spending two or three times the money doing something the wrong way is much more fulfilling than spending a little and doing it right the first time. I mean,,,jeeez! Who makes a plan,,,its way better to self discover and feel your way through problems. Make yours like mine - 8-10K spent with only about 5K actually on the truck now.

No, I broke several "High Quality", "Lasts 6x Longer", "Indestructible Titanium" bits. :doh:

Thanks Guys, I've already ordered the track bar reloction bracket and extended sway bar brackets from Down East Offroad. I was also missing the driver's side tie rod end jam nut so I ordered that too. It should end up like step 12 in the directions here: http://www.downeastoffroad.com/HighSteerInstr.html It looks like just a couple of flat 1/4" or 3/16" pieces of steel. I guess I could have found some flat stock locally but it was about 35 bucks plus shipping, no biggie. Plus I don't have to drive everywhere to find it. Here's a shot from their webpage. The track bar I have is the Rock Krawler Bomb Proof track bar. I like it, its super beefy. It may be too long to relocate above the axle, we'll see. I think I may have to shorten the frame side, threaded end about an inch or get a shorter track bar.

Not sure if I'm following right, but I read you want to just get rid of the renix style upside down filter. I did it on my 89' based on this http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/te ... ersion.htm. I did have to get a part from the dealership but it wasn't expensive. All the part numbers are available at the dealer or any local auto parts store.

Should be snappy, not a ton of muscle but it should be fairly speedy from stop light to stop light.

Love it, I'd trade my 5.9 Limited ZJ for one like that.

ooh 4.10s and 235s = fast truck! I like it!

Good work!

Thanks dude!

I love that movie, some of the best one-liners in the history of film..... ok back to the MJ now....

This is my first MJ experience: Back in Louisiana when I was a freshman in high school, my best friend 'Brian' and I talked our buddy (forgot his name, this was 89') into going deer hunting with us. Brian had a brand new .243 rifle he needed to sight in. So we layed the rifle over the hood of our buddy's brand new MJ and took turns taking shots at stumps. Brian got behind the rifle and shot,,,,but it sounded like someone hit a huge gong. We looked and saw that the shot, although was a couple of inches off the hood, still ripped a 12" long hole in the hood of the MJ. It peeled up the metal like flower petals. Our friend immediately started freakin out that his dad was going to kill him so we cooked up a story that we were out in the woods and heard a bunch of shots and when we came back to the truck we found the hood like that.... It didn't work, our friend's dad didn't kill him but he ended up paying for the repairs. The funny thing is that at the time I though the truck was an ugly piece of junk,,,,now I think MJs are the coolest thing on 4 wheels.

Nice Truck ---- I'm referring to the MJ of course!