Comanche County

Guys, I'm looking for an externally slaved bell housing, fork, and bearing retainer plate for an AX-15. I have an internal slave set up now and would like to swap it over to an external slave. Looking to do what comanche09 did in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=23674&hilit=internal+slave+swap Sort of stuck right now with my build and would like to do this while I have the transmission out. I'll pay top dollar or let me know what you're looking for, maybe we can trade. Thanks, Jay

Maybe its time for a little Texas round up Comanche Club style,,,,,only problem is my MJ looks like this right now...

That clears it up...

very cool!

Here's a question for you guys. I was a little upset about getting a question wrong while watching the Cash Cab. Here's the question: Name seven (I think) of the Canadian Provinces. The first two that popped in my mind were the Yukon and the Northwest Territories, having driven the ALCAN and gone through the Inside Passage twice (lived in Alaska two separate times). Anyway, the lady in the cab didn't get the question right. When the host named out the rest of the Provinces he did not mention the Yukon or the NW Territories. What gives? Are they not considered Provinces? ...and Happy Birthday Fellas! :cheers: :Canadaflag:

Hope everything goes better for you man.

Ah, thanks for the fix Pete, I'll do it like that. Its strange though, their links were working, then...they didn't. mfpdm, Thanks for the input. p.s. love your build dude!

Ah ha, I knew it! :eek: Pete does has special powers! :bowdown: I bet his Jeep can fly too!

Sorry about the pics, I tried for several hours last night to get it right. Maybe someone else using Flickr who's smarter than me will figure it out. Mega kudos to you Jeep Dog! Thats exactly what I need. :bowdown:

I'm about to fall over asleep, I'll try to fix it in the morning. Later fellas! :cheers:

I'm playing hell getting the pics loaded. :fs1: :fs1: Flickr changed their links up and I can't find a workable URL. Its a factory NP241J with the 4 low.....

Ok, I've got this NP 241J with the 4:1 low gear. I plan on replacing my NP 231 in my MJ with the 241. There are two connectors I have questions on. I'm hoping someone else has done this and can give me some advice on this. In the pic below there are two red arrows to the wires that will need to be connected. The bottom comes from the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) in the TC that plugs into a more modern vehicle to drive the speedometer electronically. My 89 Pioneer has a cable driven speedo. I've heard of kits to convert these somehow, but don't exactly know what I'm looking for to make it work. I'd like to keep it as simple as possible and use a connector with an electrical input from the TC with a mechanical output to spin the speedo cable. Does something like this exist? I fear if not, then I'll have to swap in an electronic speedometer, but I really don't want to open that can of worms with hacking up the wiring in the dash just for a new speedo. My gut tells me I'll leave a trail of electrical destruction in my dash if I do that. So I'm hoping there is an electronic to mechanical adapter. The second arrow points to what I believe is simply the 4 wheel drive indicator. I think I should be able to splice this into the existing plug for that purpose. Here's links to the pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/37014918@N07/4751046081 Here's a shot of the 241J on the left and the 231 with SYE and 2-Low that is coming out. Any hints or advice will be greatly appreciated. I'm looking to get this back in next week. Thanks, Jay

CW, that is one awesome rig!

If I get within 50 feet of a car the radiator goes out,,,the walmart parking turns into yellowstone when I walk through it. :cheers:

It obviously has a hole in it. The question is, where is it and is it repairable? If it is you could repair your self for free or have a radiator shop repair it for a lot less than a 100 bucks. If they want more tell them to pound sand. Radiators corrode from the inside out and if yours is in good shape on the inside then maybe a quick soldering job is all it needs which would be cheaper than a new one. However, if its corroded and weak, then you'll have another leak soon after you fix this one and a new radiator would be in order anyway. Remove it, visually inspect it, check for debris floating in it, discoloration, and obvious rust. What is the color of the fluid in the overflow/pressure bottle? Is there debris caked to the inside of the bottle? If so could be a sign that there is rust in the system and at a minimum a good flushing is in order. Its best to run a good quality antifreeze with anti corrosive properties and flush and replace it every few years, or yearly. If not, rust will occur inside the radiator, heater core or from the coolant passages in the engine, its inevitable. Remember, your coolant will behave differently under heat and pressure depending on your ratio of water and antifreeze. Pure water will vaporize and steam or blow out of a small hole at 212 degrees at sea level, faster when under pressure or higher in elevation. The 4.0 likes to run around 210 so running straight water or very diluted coolant is never a good idea. I try to run no less than a 50/50 mixture. More antifreeze in the mixture will allow more heat and pressure before it starts to geyser out of a hole, but it will still leak just not as bad as a diluted mix. Testing it in a tank (or a kiddie swimming pool) under pressure is the best way to find all the leaks in the radiator, you can do it in the vehicle but you may miss the cracks that may not be wide enough to be obvious. Under water you'll see the bubbles. Take special care in cleaning the surface of any repair area; wire brush it, then burn off any paint, ensure its bare and clean copper, then solder up the hole. Dave is exactly right,,,,Also take a pair of pliers and gently squeeze tight all holding tabs on both tanks, assuming its got plastic tanks or removable tanks. Its common for those tabs to loosen after many years and cause leaks. Those can be hard to find sometimes. Radiators are my enemy :fs1: It seems I've been fighting them my whole life. It started with two old mustangs I had as a teenager here in TX when I couldn't afford new ones, 136 degree patrols in Iraq, then continued with the MJ, and recently I've had to repair two XJs, two ZJs, and Mom's vile Northstar POS Cadilac.

Maybe the flasher is bad. Its in the fuse box under the dash, that's where I'd start. I had a similar problem when I bought my truck. For me it was just bad bulbs and incorrect (too small) fuses.

Here I am! :waving: There are a few floating around Temple. Only one other nice one though, I gotta stop the guy and talk to him. I'm not alone anymore, I'm so happy now!

White smoke out the grill? Seems kinda odd. Try removing the radiator and taking it to a Radiator Shop where they can pressurize it up to 16 lbs while under water to confirm if its leaking.

Worn Unit Bearings perhaps?

Two 92s, that's not fair. I've never even seen a 92.

I love J10/20s! Mark my words, I will have one or a couple of them one day!

...when you have the only Comanche in Comanche County.... http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Comanche, ... CBsQ8gEwAA I haven't seen another Comanche on the road here in years. Just the Sport Truck I found in the JY. I travel to Waco, Temple and Ft Worth quite often, don't see em there either. When I lived on the Front Range in CO, I'd see them all the time, and absolutely tons of XJs and a smattering of MJs. That's when the Jeep bug hit...I think CO is as close to Jeep heaven as you can get.

Most aftermarket wheels I see are too 'blingy' and make me gag, but I like these. Really cool, what kind are they?

That really stinks, I'm getting a good fire extinguisher now. I guess the only good thing is the truck is still in your hands and you can do something with it. An insurance company would total it and it would get crushed. Glad the engine didn't go with it.

Good idea, thanks for the tip!