Comanche County

When you say "Hub Assembly" I'm guessing you mean the Unit Bearings. The break was at 99' for a slightly different version. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoHubReplacement.htm If your D30 is non cad with small u joints (260s), it should be a pre 96' XJ axle as long as its HP. In 97', Jeep started using the larger 297 joints.

I thought the 3.4 was the same engine with the same bellhousing....I'm talking about the 3.4s that came in 90's Camaros and Firebirds. I was looking at this with the 86' MJ I recently sold. I found a 95' Firebird engine, the plan was to just use the block and keep the Jeep upper end stuff on it, essentially a block swap. Here's a good link: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Pro ... ect_XJ.htm I like the idea of an injected 3.4, although JP magazine did name it one of the top ten Dumb engines swaps,,,,I do love those guys but they're in cahoots with the SBC crowd and they're biased toward Chevy powered Jeeps. From JP: "GM 60-degree V-6 The candidate: GM stuck the little 2.8L piggy in everything from front-wheel drive cars, to S-10 pickups and Blazers, to Camaros and Firebirds. Later stroked to 3.1L and then punched to 3.4L, every version left any semblance of power, torque, and longevity at the door. The perception: Why not yank a 2.8L out of a GM vehicle or '84-'86 Cherokee since they're plentiful in the junkyards? If it blows, you can grab a replacement pretty much anywhere. Or, why not upgrade a 2.8L Cherokee with a 3.4L Goodwrench 60-degree crate engine? The reality: Even the "mighty" 3.4L GM crate engine offered as a power upgrade for the 2.8L puts out a measly 160hp and 194lb-ft of torque. Besides, reliability was never one of the 60-degree V-6's traits. The exception: There is none. Move on. We think: The 2.8L is so bad and underpowered it must've been designed by the French. Its only saving grace is that it shares the same bellhousing bolt pattern as Jeep's 2.5L four-cylinder. We'd rather have one of those. Read more: http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/ ... z1tfDHd0Hq"

One of mine seized up at 60 mph, not fun getting it to the side of the road. A catastrophic bearing failure could mean the loss of a wheel and then all sorts of bad things can happen at speed. So bought two Timken replacement bearings. When I pulled the other side off, it fell apart in my hands...the only thing holding the wheel on was the 36mm nut. Anyway, Big Red has two new bearings now. I've always neglected to change these cause honestly I've never had one fail before. But after seeing how the second fell apart, I'll be changing these on my other Jeeps soon. It did ruin the weekend, I was loaded up with camping and fishing gear and had my new roof top tent mounted up. Complete bummer, I never made it out to the camping spot I was heading to. What a new Timken bearing should look like:

Give me Renix or Give me Death!

MMMM....an MJ 20, :drool:

I don't know crap about programming. But here's what I like about the technical side of this board: 1. I am not wading through seriously annoying ads like on Jeepforum, NAGCA, and Pirate. 2. Its free other than the small donation that everyone should give periodically,,,,,speaking of that, I ought to make another paypal soon. 3. Everything works, I like the pic and video posting buttons. A lot of other forums do it in 5-10 clicks, while I can do it here in 1-2 clicks. 4. The great smiley choices: :banana: 5. If you lose the dancing banana I will be sorely disappointed.

Por-15 is a complete rip off. Your preparation is key to rust prevention, not the infomercial quality POR15 you get at the local hardware store. Its says plainly on their label, "paint on top of rust".....complete BS! That company rips people off daily. Do not spend a 150$ a gallon on this crap, its the paint equivalent of Kim Kardashian's marriage vows. Just like any paint, it will not last if you do not give the surface metal a sharp jagged surface for it to adhere to, that means you must blast the surface of the metal for it to stick. Paint adheres physically not chemically to the metal. Forget etching primer, that's a rip off also. The POR company is completely full of $#!& when it comes to the application of that paint. Seriously, this crap gets more attention than it deserves. It will flake off as easily as spray bombed Rustoleum, which is actually better than POR15. Paint is and will always be secondary to your prep of the surface it is applied to. Although, I'm not NACE certified, I previously filled a management position responsible for coating underground water transmission pipes that were intended to last for 100 years, before you spend big money on a sham like this, talk to at least a NACE level 1-3 certified person and get their advice, its the best advice I can give anyone planning to coat any metal. You'll be better off wire wheeling and spraying any cheapo paint than using that stuff. Don't spend a dime on it.

Speak for yourself, I have my non-existent Jeep. Rob 8) PhotoChop, not a real MJ! :D

Me too! :cheers:

All this talk about non-existent diesel Jeeps is just a bunch of crazy talk. You guys are off your meds. :D

I've chased downed clutch issues a time or two. Each time I solved the issue by the directions above....but most standard issue transmission shops will have more experience than I since they troubleshoot this stuff everyday. But there is nothing except for a complete clutch kit that will cost more than 100 bones.

I'm thinking one of three things. The MC needs to be bled or is bad (I think the latter). The slave is bad, yes again. Or, there is a leak in the hydraulic line somewhere. Look on the line where it runs close to the exhaust on the fire wall and check for cracks. It could be leaking slowly and burning up before it drips down the line. Best to remove the line and inspect it carefully in good light. Bench bleed the MC, attach the line and run the other end back into the top of the MC reservoir and pump the clutch and look for air bubbles. Also check closely for leaks around the MC. Then bleed the Slave again. There's only those three components, so don't give up. You'll figure it out eventually. Good thing is you've got an external slave so no need to remove the transmission. Only other thing non hydraulically related that I can think of is a weak pressure plate. Sometimes when they go out they just get weaker and weaker as if your clutch pedal eventually just doesn't do anything.

Caprice Classic no less! One of these days we'll all be driving one, or a Lincoln, possibly a big fat Buick,,,,but that's a good 40 more years down the road for me.

I think that system is pretty neat, but probably only useful on flat terrain. 12.5" or 14.5" wide tires on a Jeep will float just as well, but on a full size rig those things probably do help as long as the ground isn't too rough.

My first thought! Yeah my MJ brother, that little bender is really no big whoop dog. No worries.

Ah, time is cheap really, when you get back to the MJ it will feel like it was yesterday.

Sounds like you got a plan, welcome to CC! Also the Puke-Goat and D35 ain't all that bad if you don't abuse her.

I bet you'll see an improvement in mileage also!

Bad shape, 50-100 bucks, in decent shape with good glass and a back window that seals well, I'd give 100-150. In perfect shape with perfect paint, they'll get 200-300 online maybe a tad more. I wouldn't pay these prices for an S10 or Ranger topper though. Definitely go get that bed liner!

My 50' CJ3A is supposed to be 60 hp and 100 lbs of torque, its probably down some due to low compression. I love the way the old engine sounds. If it had brakes I'd DD it.

Nice work man!

:cheers: :thumbsup:

Welcome aboard!

Very beautiful country up there!

I first walked out and saw the snake wrapped around the hen and I thought she was already dead, so I went back inside and grabbed my S&W M&P Sub Compact 40 Cal. Way overkill I know, but I was a little upset and wanted to kill this varmint with one shot. Ive got a couple of scatter guns, a 380, a customized Beretta FS92, and a couple of 22s, but sometimes smaller calibers are not enough for a clean kill, so I went big. She really was our prize hen, guess my choice of dispatching tool was rather emotionally charged. I wouldn't have used it if I'd have known she would have sprung back to life, she was barely twitching when I shot the snake, and I thought she would have died anyway when I fired the shot. I was really trying not to hit the eggs and I couldn't quite clearly see where her head was.....anyway, turned out she was okay for the most part except for several deep lacerations, which would have been a serious issue themselves, and a lot of missing feathers. Her head and comb were saturated with blood also when she jumped out, which lends me to believe there was some sort of battle before the snake wrapped her up. Next time I won't let myself get upset about it and I'll just stick to .22 cal snake/bird shot. I've got a nice over/under .22/20 gauge that will now become my varmint gun.