87Warrior

1986, Jeep, Comanche Custom When I bought the truck, 12/2011: 10/2012: 10/2014: 2.5L TBI / AX5 / NP207 / D30 / Ford 8.8 (was D35) / LWB Build date: Unavailable (all ink has disappeared from the door sticker) Current Location: Central Kansas Status: My current daily driver Notes: Factory tilt wheel, windshield wiper delay and 3/4 cluster. Was a 4-cylinder truck with 3.55 gears, now has 4.10 gears. The truck was originally gray (or silver) with the medium blue (checkered) bench seat interior with carpet. Currently the truck is still gray but now has agate XJ buckets and console as well as black interior plastics. Current owner: Me :)

Swap you a rusty 86 and a high mileage 4.0 for it. Only partially kidding. ........

How time flies. I'm not sure if congrats are in order quite yet or not. Maybe congrats on getting the courage to ask. After all, she hasn't said yes yet.... I've been married for 2 years now and she still supports my Jeep obsession ;)

Haha! A man with good taste in wheels :brows:

Subscribing to follow this. I have been collecting parts to do the aluminum valve cover swap but refuse to use one of the dang cork gaskets.

For about 1/3 less you could buy the spacers and Chevy shackles from Autozone and have them delivered to your door for free. I also do not believe you will get 1.5" of lift from those shackles, probably closer to 1/2-1". Plus the shackles aren't that annoying gold color ;)

Jim speaks the truth. Cut the ENTIRE front 1/2 of the floor out of the XJ, firewall to b pillar, rocker to rocker. I would suggest cutting into the frame of the XJ, then remove the spot welds once the floor is out. Makes life much easier. Once you start cutting out the rust on the MJ, you will find that a solid piece of metal to weld to is much further away than you thought.

What winch are you going with? A better than stock replacement battery is a must. One thing to remember is, generally, the cheaper winches pull many more AMPs than the more expensive winches. With a good battery (I like Sears Diehard Platinum with two sets of fully rated terminals) I wouldn't even bother with an alternator unless you have problems later on.

The V8 ZJ tie rod will bolt up to your stock drag link. Or you can upgrade to a V8 ZJ drag link as it is stronger as well. To do the tie rod upgrade you will need the following parts: - Tie Rod - Adjusting Sleeve - Tie Rod End These can all be purchased from autoparts stores.

Ahhh! I finally got rid of the mismatched steel wheels. Helllllooooo Turbine: My wife also instructed me to go pick up some pasture rock for landscaping. I don't know how much weight it was, but the load was in front of the rear axle. The 2.5 didn't hesitate too much. I did discover a crack in the NP207, thus it is leaking quite a bit. Plan is to replace it with a 231. While rounding up the appropriate parts to swap in a NP231 I will keep topping it off with fluid and hope it doesn't fall apart on the highway.

Anything but black :)

Neat worksheet/project you did there. I would be a bit concerned about using the stock control arms though. Yes they do allow for decent flex, but the flex is obtained by twisting the metal of the arm. Add a bunch more twist caused by the longer springs (and shocks you buy) and I see serious metal fatigue.

Rob hit the nail on the head here. CPS isn't a hard job at all, it just takes a bit of thinking ahead.

If you need to get something set up so the doors will simply stay shut in the shop or the like, you can install the 97+ striker with the top hole going through the factory hole and nut plate in the MJ. The alignment will be off, but the door will latch shut. For a more permanent/proper solution, I believe it is best to remove the factory nut plate on the MJ by drilling out the spot welds. You can try and work around it , but you will just get mad. Then, if you can weld, plug weld a plate behind the door jam utilizing the spot weld cuts and existing striker hole, position the striker in position and drill new holes and install with the 97+ hardware. If you don't weld, position the striker on the jam and drill the holes. Cut a plate to mount behind the jam and drill a set of matching holes in the plate. Bolt everything together using the 97+ hardware. This method won't fill in the spot weld holes or the factory striker hole, but you should be able seal it up if you cut the new jam plate the right size.

Gah, some peoples children. That truck is in spectacular condition! Are you going to try and buy the whole rig, Jim?

Ouch. I've always wondered how many cars go over the edge during those Pikes Peak races.

Great score on the Moabs, look to be the polished 03/04 variety. You will get good at removing and installing the dash after doing it 20 times or so :)

I took the carpet from my 99 XJ donor to the car wash. I used the hot soap and hot rinse sequence several times. When the carpet dried at the house I attacked remaining stains with Simple Green and nylon scrub brush then rinsed with water. The result was quite remarkable with like new carpet.

Spectacular trucks. Absolutely beautiful. Congrats on the MJOTM!

Tom Woods makes a great driveshaft, especially for those of us who drive our rigs everyday. I hear good things about Coast and HAD as well. I have been very happy with the TW shaft on my Rubi for the last 7 years. I have had it rebuilt/rebalanced once by TW. On the same rig, my stock front shaft is getting real sloppy and I plan to buy a TW to replace it. Tom Wood also sells SYE's: www.4xshaft.com I have no comment on the Rustys stuff as I am not familiar with it. Selling a used custom driveshaft can be a challenge. You will just have to post it for sale with the dimensions and hope for the best.

Thanks for the information. I am not looking forward to doing a t-case swap, but suspect I had better get started before the snow flys.<br />

This evening I found a crack in the case of the NP207 in my '86 (2.5/AX5). Instead of replacing it with another noisy 207, I'd like to replace it with a 231. Do all AX5's have the same output shaft? Do all NP231's behind AX5's interchange? I have 2, 91+ NP231s that were behind AW4s and a 91+ NP231 that was behind an AX5. Will any of these work in my 86? Will the speedometer cable from the 207 replace the electronic sender on a 91+ 231? Thanks for any help.

It sounds to me like either your sending unit has fallen out of spec or the guys who installed your fuel tank bent the float rod. Even on a bad tank @ 10 mpg you should pull 180 miles, maybe 150 to the light.

For a clean MJ D44 I would pay $350, if it had trac-loc. $450 if it had 4.10 gears. $250 with an open carrier and wrong gears. I bought mine for $200 with the proper driveshaft. But it was dirty, has an open carrier and will need regeared/built.

Agreed. That truck sounds to far gone. Strip it down and recycle the rotted metal. Pull the VIN plates and keep them with the title. Never know when a good 91 might need a good title......