87Warrior

Noise AND heat suppression I believe.

That is a nice, clean, Ipod mount set up. I can't stand seeing the larger Ipods mounted in a vehicle. Nice work with the little one. But I do have a question. If the Ipod can be controlled via the radio/remote why have it mounted and not tucked in the glove box?

Cool beans Rob. We can now welcome CC to the future... er what?

Glad I could help get the truck to you :thumbsup: Here are a few pics I took of the truck as it sat outside my apartment. It sounds like you are making good progress on that truck. I can't believe the floors are in good shape!!!!! Hope some of those body panels I dropped off at your place will find their way on the truck.

Happy Birthday! My wife's is tomorrow (hey look, I remembered). I have yet to do any of the 18th or 21st bday stuff and I'll be 25 in a few months. Ha. Oh well.

You may also want to check the Unit Bearings (hub assembly) for play. These were a cause to the wobble my TJ had.

You have found the right place. We all suffer from the MJ syndrome so you will fit right in. Welcme! :waving:

How do you suspect a front locker,or the vehicle for that matter, would respond to the "Full Time" setting in the 242? My gut tells me, not good :thwak:

40 degrees is by no means a cold start. Our friends north of the 49th have to deal with -20 degrees. Did it do this before the new fuel system components? When it refuses to start check to see if you are getting spark then check if it is getting enough fuel pressure at the rail. What happens if you press the throttle a little while trying to start it?

Subscribed so I too can gain info about these lockers for my MJ that will be a DD. All I know is air lockers.

First things first, fix what is busted. As you take pieces of the truck apart clean them and repaint as needed. Also take a gander in the DIY Projects section. Lots of smaller upgrades/fixes posted in there. My recommendations: - Take the interior apart and clean. Remove the seat and wash the carpet, pull the trim and scrub clean, remove dash pieces and clean. - While working inside upgrade the interior lighting. Search the forum as there are several well written how to's. - While still working inside upgrade to a full cluster if you have the dummy lights. - When upgrading the cluster you will replace 2 sensors in the engine compartment. Clean and degrease. - Flush the cooling system and brake lines. - Inspect all vacuum lines and electrical lines. Replace as needed. Clean electrical plugs and reassemble with dielectric grease. - Since you are working on electrical components do the "alternating turn signal flash" mod. Search, you will find it. - Now that the grill bezels are off, you might as well clean and paint them. I bet they are faded. - While the paint supplies are out, you could clean and paint the flares for a cohesive look. - Darn those faded tail lights. Use 2000 grit wet sanding and buff with one of those plastic headlight restore kits. - Since the tail light housings have been removed, take the time to clean, sand, fix the tail light connections and grounds. Reassemble with dielectric grease.

Remove, inspect and clean the IAC (idle air control) on the throttle body and see if there is any change. My gut was to say check the gaskets along the intake track, but since it will do it when warm and not return until shut down, I eliminated that possibility. Sounds like your speakers are grounding out.

That's kind of cool.

November Update - I have removed the passenger side upper 'frame' rail and floor board to expose the inner 'frame'. Next up is the driver side, but a few hidden spot welds have kept it from coming off easily. Once those are free and clear I will finish getting the dash fitted, then strip it back down. By that time the truck will finally go get soda blasted followed by a chassis coat of POR15. AND... temptation bit me in the butt. Wife said it was OK so I picked up this D44 front axle out of a 2005 Rubicon with 17K miles last weekend. Some of the aftermarket goodies will be stripped off and stuck in my rubi, while the stock rubi parts will go into the MJ axle. It has the 15" Vanco Big Brake kit (EBC Green Pads), ORO U-Turn steering with 7075 Aluminum Tie Rod (new TRE's), RE Track Bar, RockCrusher Diff Cover, 4:10 Gears, Alloy USA Axle shafts and Alloy USA axle seals. Has a busted front locker (typical for the rub lockers when loaded up). Figure $2500 in after market parts :brows: The front Rubi D44 going into the MJ will contain: - 4.10s - Rockcrusher Diff cover - Vanco Brakes - RE Trackbar - Replacement locker - Axle lock switch with safety lockout in the cab to operate the front locker compressor I will need to get the rear MJ D44 overhauled and geared to 4.10, basic locker included and disk brakes installed.

You could start by removing the cowl, plastic body panel the windshield wipers come through, and cleaning it out. This is the intake for the blower motor. More than likely a vacuum line got unplugged somewhere in the dash and is not allowing the proper HVAC 'doors' to open or close.

That clears that up. Thanks for the info. And yes, KS has very few laws limiting what you can do to your vehicle.

Now that would be cool! but a top coating would still be required to maintain a pretty color, POR15 fades to a dull grey in No time if expeosed to UV rays. Yup, POR15 sells the UV top coat too :clapping:

You asked for an opinion. NO! Having seen several lined vehicles I can say I find them extremely ugly. I don't even understand why anybody considers it. If you want a tough overpriced paint job, paint the entire truck in POR15.

Its been a few years, but last time I contacted them about MJ parts they essentially told me the MJ wasn't worth their time... None of their parts have ever screamed 'deal' to me when I inquired.

Add on. Aftermarket brackets generally bolt to the windshield hinge for you to mount the lights on. I ran my wiring into the cowl.

You could gut a D30 and then install the Vanco Big Brake kit.... But, I don't think you want to go that crazy. Simply installing EBC yellowstuff pads with new rotors and calipers in my TJ resulted in improved braking, even with 35s.

Signed, sealed and delivered. That beast was heavy! :clapping:

It would also be wise to get one with a matching gear ratio. :idea:

Go with the Euro spec, AMBER, front indicator/running light. Jeep4x4center.com (morris 4x4) sells them. That way you can be different and cool :banana:

TJ Rubi shares the same 5 on 4.5" pattern as the MJ.