yxmj

As it says in the Renix Bible above.......use a DMM .....check the voltage while turning it over...what is the voltage reading Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8” from the stock 5/16”, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts.

As it says in the Renix Bible above....use a DMM set on AC and while turning the engine over look at the voltage.....what is it

Re-connect it and see :dunno:

Check Valve? If you mean the switch that activates your cad....it is located on your transfer case........ But maybe you should re-phrase the question..... :dunno:

Here are some nice heavy duty XJ brackets that might point you the right way if you have some fab skills and a welder http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/homemade-shackle-relocation-brackets-165726/

Off topic Can you post a closer pic of that awsome aux fuse panel you have happening on your upper left fire wall... :thumbsup: ....and no offence ......but that engine compartment is tooooooo clean :eek:

I used the below Teraflex extended greasable shackles to make up for the inevitable MT spring sag that occured about a year after I installed them. These shackles are 6" eye-to-eye and gave me close to a 1" lift. Thanks :thumbsup: And it just so happens those are the exact shackles sitting on the workbench right now :banana: Never came with the bolt......do you recall if that bolt is a regular 1/2" or a goofy 14 mm :???:

I saw the guys on "American Restoration" make some for a Vespa using this technique. http://www.alumilite.com/howtos/TailLightMoldingNoEquipment.cfm Anybody want a side job that makes them cash?? . :MJ 1: .

Well that is sort of an answer to one of the 3 questions :thumbsup:

Looks like you stole my truck :fs2:

Are there more than one standard size stock MJ shackles? Did The MT option come with a bigger shackle? What is the stock center of hole to center of hole measurement for an original MJ shackle? And finally if it is out there is there an equation to calculate the relationship between shackle length and lift....The spring must enter that equation some how? . :MJ 2: .

All I can find is these....both say GM 5 speed http://mmerlinn.com/catalog/ellegirl25/bw_tkb/bwtkb010.htm http://www.britishv8.org/articles/borg-warner-t5-id-tags.htm Don't know if that helps :dunno:

As long as I am in front...... . :MJ 1: .

Being the owner of a 1987 2-wheel drive 4 cylinder 5 speed (just like the winner(s))......I hope the cops are not out with the radar guns for the ride home from work :thumbsup:

So my question of if you had a flaring tool turns into a prophecy.... :brows: ....glad to see you got it back together.. :thumbsup: .....necessity brings out the best in all of us. On thing that should be mentioned about this fix if it happens to any one else ( I did not know you had access to an older MC) ....I had similar problem with a YJ once and replaced the clutch master to internal slave line with a brake line..(I think it was off a Toyota truck rear???)...had the right fittings and the flexible rubber hose....just had to tweek the bend by the master a bit to fit....sold the truck but to my understanding he is still running that line to this day

????? JB weld it to the new master?????

If you have the new master out maybe your best bet is to take it to the parts store and see if a line from another make of vehicle would work for you..(not necessarily jeep)....I just found out myself that a dorman Master for a Honda is the same as what I have in my 87. That is of course if the line is removable from the bottom by the slave as well

If you have the pin out....do you have an easy out....or even a screw that is close in size that you could turn in to give you leverage to pull on?

Yea sorry just trying to get you a quick answer the end is like this right http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/716130--master-cylinder-fitting-for-jeep-yj-wrangler/

Can you post a pic? Do you have access to a line flaring tool?

Using a XJ sway bar may not be so easy. Their springs are over the rear axles (SOA) and the MJ is under (SUA), add in the fact the XJ's sway bar mounts to the plates on top of the spring packs and they spring themselves are farther apart (XJ springs mount outboard of the "frame", MJ's on the bottom of the frame), might make it a lot of work to adapt. The flip side is you can probably find a XJ sway bar for free since removing the rear sway bar is a popular mod on XJ's with trail aspirations. (I took both of them off my XJ and off to the recycler they went.) I understand where you're coming from though, my '89 MJ wallows quite a bit when I have my Four Wheel Pop-Up Camper installed. I'm guessing if your 86 hasn't had new shocks in the last few years or springs in the last decade, it's time to think about going that route. :) If you are still set on a sway bar..... try looking for a YJ on....They are SUA

Any XJ rad with a cap will also work for you ( and be easier to source) :thumbsup:

I do not know if it is stock (seems the #180 comes to mind) but I run 195's in all my 4L's as well as the 2.5....I find they seem to run the best at around 100*c :dunno:

For original MJ parts I usually go downtown to the MJ parts store. It is a bit of a trip but you can't beat the selection of original MJ parts and accessories. :thumbsup: Just look it up in the yellow pages.....it will be down town in the parts district. . :MJ 1: .

As DJ401 says...wrong bolt pattern...The tires are only 28 1/16" high.....so the could fit in your wheel well.......adapters could work but would push the tire out the width of the adapter. IMHO you would be better off looking for something that is more direct bolt on :dunno: