yxmj

Can you describe the process you are following to bleed?.....If you are using the bleed nipple on the passenger side like you say that is correct......but what is the method you are using to bleed?

The master is not hard to change...remove the linkage under the dash....then it is 2 nuts and the line going in...done.....I do not understand the bleed question...are you asking how to bleed the clutch? If that is what you are asking look at your bell housing on the passenger side...there will be a tube with a little fitting on it that looks and operates just like a brake bleeder.

Since we are all Canadian and sharing the love....I would like a bolt in 44 as well please... :Canadaflag: Thank's eh

Stock brakes in good shape would be fine....are you experienced in towing...even pulling a trailer?

First make sure flat towing (towing with just a tow bar) is legal were you plan on going. Towing with a towbar is a bit easier on the tow vehicle because tongue weight (the weight of a trailer hitch) is not a factor. I myself have done the exact same thing your describing many times. my advice aside it being legalwould be this: Make sure you have good breaks on the tow vehical (it will be stopping for 2) I personally would take off both drive shafts (just at the axle and strap it up) get a good set of lights that you can string from the tow vehicle to the rear of the TJ...they sell them but you can make your own with a simple trailer light kit.

You don't say what you are driving...so my first guess is your watch :dunno:

Could be....but if the linkage was disconnected (or broken)...wouldn't the pedal be hanging there loose instead of being stuck to the floor :dunno: ?

Well whether your just doing the rear or both there is one more easy alternative ..if you are willing to weld in perches... and If you do not want to go as low as 4.56's but lower than the 3.55...... When you are hunting the junkyards and for sale ads keep your eyes open for any Yj, TJ, XJ, MJ that came with a 2.5.....good chance it will have 4.10/4.11 (or the 4.56) gears....and will be no more work to install than any other of the ones previously mentioned. 4.10's will make it stand up and bark when you put your foot into it.... . :MJ 1: . Edit (I missed that Eagle pointed you in that direction already)...... great minds think alike.... :laughin:

No pedal to the floor means the piston in the master did not return....a healthy master will return even with no fluid

Well look at your post of when it occurs...when braking and when you put the gas to it......both those load the chain... :dunno: ......no noise in 2wd unless you turn....with a locker it would reverse load the chain...find some loose sand gravel snow...put it in 4H...put your foot into it.....is there a bang?

First guess is your chain is slipping....

Would have been...if you were... . :MJ 1: .

These are a common sight in the great white north.....a sled deck that holds 2 sleds will carry 3 quads

Thanks again For any one else looking into doing this swap I found this thread full of info http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?371713-8-8-FACTS-OPINIONS-amp-HOW-TO-S-(F-A-Q-) . :MJ 1: .

Thanks for all the info....fell into the need to have/price range so I pulled the trigger. Just a thought...any problems with having the pumpkin offset? And is the offset really noticeable?

I have the exact same truck (but with the ax5) has 4.11's and with 31's she did not like 5th on the highway unless we had a tail wind....I would be looking at 4.56's . :MJ 1: .

Thanks....so cards on the table what would be a fair price for the above descibed diff(don't have a pic...but I have looked at it a couple of times) it is out.....clean......fluid drained....from what I can tell new seals and brand new rotors....I would still go over it all and replace with new....but by my description what would be a fair price?

Have a chance to pick up an 8.8 out of an explorer...4.11...posi....disc brakes....aside from the 3/4" width it seems to be a stronger choice than a 44.... Any opinions?

Someone had asked this before when doing a 2-4 swap...I looked it up but never re-posted... If you go on Summit racings site...look up vacuum actuated switch....the one I found is made by TCI Auto part # TCI-cmp3766b.... With a switch like this you could still use stock T-case switch....run a hose from the t-case switch to the vac outlet on one of these....wire your light to one of the terminals on the switch....run the other terminal to an accessory outlet on your fuse panel ....when you pull the handel back to 4x4 the t-case switch creats a vacuum that activates this switch and turns on the light...

First guess is CPS.... :dunno:

I have a carrier on one of my XJ's that mounts into the receiver hitch.....would hold a tire up to 36" and you can still utilize the hitch to tow or as a recovery point....I made it myself, but they sell them... Of course to start you would have to have a receiver..... . :MJ 1: . This is not mine....it popped up first on a google search....mine is almost identical... http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/hitch-mount-spare-tire-carrier-done-570883/ If you don't have a receiver you could replace the receiver section with just a piece of angle iron with a hole that matches your bumper ball hole and bolt it on?

To go back to the OP question. If your requirement is to have a "Block Heater" that aids in your engine getting to operating temp faster and your heater blowing warm air quicker then look into one of these. Google recirculating coolant heater..... This is one I have it goes in a heater hose.....you can also get them that go in a rad hose. Basically it is a normal block heater with some added features. This has a high output coil 1000-1500 watts as well as a powered impeller that circulates the preheated coolant through the engine block, as opposed to a normal block heater that heats the coolant around were it is installed and relies on the heat radiating out from there. And to answer everyone's next question,,,here are a couple of T-stat housings........see the hole beside were the t-stat sits....the one in line with the heater hose.... This opening is what allows the coolant to circulate through not only the engine but through the heater core as well. On my jeeps i leave my heater control to max and the control set to defrost.....when this heater kicks in (yes it is on a timer) it heats and circulates the coolant, it produces enough heat to (for those of you who have to deal with it) keep the ice off the window and melt any snow that lands on the windshield. And as the coolant is uniformly warmer it takes less time to warm up and get heat blowing. 2 Fast block heater tips from the GREAT WHITE NORTH 1) you don't need any equipment but your ear to test a block heater.....with the vehicle cold...plug the block heater in....immediately kneel down and stick your ear in the wheel well above the front tire...listen...a working block heater will make the exact same hissing and popping sounds you hear when you plug in an electric kettle and it starts up.....and when running you should still be able to hear the hissing sound....but it is more prevalent on startup. 2) As stated above....use a timer.....it only needs about and hour or so to heat up.....plugging it in longer will not make it warmer......go back to the electric kettle analogy...plug the kettle in....once it boils....it is boiled.....leaving it plunged in will not make it hotter. . :MJ 1: .

Si. No info given, but lots of questions asked. Kinda like asking "how long is a piece of string?". What kind of string?

It is a D35....the 3 bolts on the top and bottom are the clue...on a 8.25 they are almost in a straight line across....yours have a slight arc on the 3 top and 3 bottom To be sure look at the front were the pinion is...the chrysler insignia would probably be cast in the housing

1- change the oil and filter....check the oil p then...sometimes repeated overheatings cause the oil to lose viscosity ....give it some new oil and at least you will know it is new and full. 2- first guess on the overheating is your thermostat is not opening.....if not that then your water pump is gone......change the t-stat...and flush the rad....see where you stand after you do those easy fixes