Oizarod115

i THINK he's talkin about the connector from the CPS to the harness... try electrical contact cleaner in there and a good shaking. (oh and make sure to plug it back in ;) ) other than that, have you checked the dist?

haha, i was shivverin' at 65 the other night :roll: but i do love winter, it seems like we get more wheelin' done in the winter

hahahaha, that video was classic.

the clutch and stuff from one should work in the other, and one thing to note is that the overall difference when doing a swap is less than an inch so i doubt the bellhousings are any different in depth

is the part-time light on the dash coming on when you shift into 4x?

Using the Harbor Freight kit, takes about 10 minutes if you stop and clean up the yokes really well......... that's not a hammer and two sockets now is it ;) ball-joint press or something similar, and a BFH and theyre not TO terrible bad, a vice helps though.

yeah man, i made my own one of these from 3" exhaust pipe... drilled a hole large enough for the end of the sensor, ground a nut down to where it was cupped to fit the pipe, welded it on, drilled hole in exhaust, cut the 3" and folded two flaps in it and bolted it together... she leaks right now from my patch a little bit but i'll get it fixed... hind-sight's 20-20 and i kinda fubared it a bit, so i'll fix it with some JB or somethin to stop the leak

take a look at the track-bar is a likely culprit if you're having that bad of problems. i don't remember the torque specs on it off the top of my head.. other things to do would be have someone cycle the steering a lil left and then back right then left and watch all the components for slop while they're cyclin back and forth quickly. worn out bushings, loose track-bar, stuff like that or a combination of a bunch of things cause it usually. oh, and don't be fooled, tires CAN and will cause DW, so check pressure and maybe have them balanced if nothing looks to worn up front

niccceeee man.... wish i could go

if you're replacing the hub check napa, IIRC my brother paid 70$ for one last week. and a really really worn out hub will allow the wheels some slop when turning, so that'll tighten things up a little if its truly bad. other than that, i'd try once-overing all the bolts

figure out what to do about the clutch fan? if that's your only problem its as simple as e-fans from a taurus.

I had a similar problem way back when. You should be able to see if the bung is broken from the header and spinning, or the sensor is simply stripped and spinning. If the sensor is stripped, it has to come out, even if you have to drill it out (which I had to do). Then go to your local AutismZone, pick up a spark plug thread chasing tool (the O2 sensor has the same threads) and cut new threads in the bung with the tool. And be SURE to use a non-invasive anti-seize compound on the new O2 sensor so it doesn't happen the next time. alright, how did you get the drill in there to get the darned thing out? its up under everything and from the bottom itsn ot much easier to get at.

come-on guys... anything! all i can find on naxja is that it should be a 5-minute job with a crescent wrench... riiight, just like you're supposed to be able to change 19 y.o. axleshaft u-joints with a hammer and two sockets, right? :roll:

alright, HELP ME PLEASE! i tried to replace my o2 sensor today, tested it, got infinite ohms, tested new one same way, got 5 so ok, definitely bad... have to pass sniff-test by tuesday or i get late fee's so i went out got the right wrench on the sensor and it quickly rounded instead of loosening, so i wd-40d it and hit it with the pipe wrench which loosened it, and it SEEMED to be coming out, it got looser-and-looser til the point where i can hand spin the whole thing. and yet somehow it won't come out. I'm lookin at the new sensor and i have no idea how the thing can be broken off in there like it is, it only has like 5 threads so its not just really far in there, idk wtf happened. but if anyone has an idea of how to put t he new one in another spot or how to get this damned thing out please let me know.

aight man, thanks

CONGRATULATIONS! time to bring in the next gen of wheelers and wrenchers! :cheers: :cheers: have a great one man. enjoy the vacation too.

that mud is just disgusting. blegh and those are some badass mercedes benz

haha, i get pissed anytime i see ANYONES lights at night, the color/intensity has nothin to do with it. :roll: i've flipped my mirror up on old volvo's

thanks, i flipped through your thread real quick didn't see any straight on pics with a good shot of the steering or anything, you think you've got one? coil springs perform better no doubt, but i've seen some flexy leaf setups too, just don't wanna fool with DBs or LA's or stupid tall SA angles and track bars are a pain in my @$$.

what spring are you running in the front? i'm back to thinking about a front leaf setup out of sheer simplicity... we've got one jeep built with a linked front end... and i've had death wobble since day one stock. so i'll be happy to go to a more striaghtforward suspension. did you have any steering issues with the leaf's gettin in the way?

honestly, if you feel like your truck has no power and 'no balls' with 3.07s and 235s... there's something wrong with your 4.0 cause i've got the same setup and it hauls @$$. fun as hell to drive, and pretty quick... not to mention i have the BA10 which has a higher first gear than the AX15

WOW! thanks man. i only knew of 3 in GA.. they have like 11 pages of them

its kind of ironic that the only jeep v8s (AMC v8s) are the hardest ones to get to work in a jeep... i don't think i have EVER seen a completed AMC360 swapped in one, only that gray manche with the built 401 but he's not on the forums just youtube.

long as you've got a welder there's no reason to worry... :roll:

theyre passenger side drop so you're gonna have issues even if it does fit i think AA makes a kit to put one in and flip it to where it's drivers side drop.