Oizarod115

i say relay and switched to the ign. don't worry about the factory method of it.

so it works better than brake fluid? no! if your truck is functioning fine don't do it... just use brake fluid. he's saying if it's leakin and you're in a pinch that it'll slow up and in his case stop the leak. but if it aint broke don't fix it.

why on EARTH have you been separating that many shifters?

yeah d44 was a factory option 8) (that i didn't end up with :roll: )

you can pull the diff cover, won't take to long, and check the gears for obvious signs like missing teeth and stuff. refill with any 80w90ish gear oil

:yes:

don't worry about taking the shifter apart.. take the console out and you'll notice underneath there are some boots remove those, then you will be able to see the top of the tranny, the shifter should bolt on with 4 bolts... and the whole thing will come out. in order to remove the console you'll need to pop the 4x4 selector plastic thing out to get to one bolt, don't remember the others, mine were broken, and remove the shifter head by unscrewing it.

some pics from our last trip! i can't wait. random dude in the rock-garden the xj the group one of the group guys at crawford's rock-pile more random rigs at the rock-garden (lower-2) the XJ again we should get some better shots this time, some with manches, and the XJ wheelin some hardcore stuff.

Tera-low kit: low-range 4wheel drive uses an extra gear to reduce your trans/axle gears by an additional 2.72 (varies for other vehicles) and makes your truck have the power to do w/e the hell you need to do. the Tera-low kit is a different gear/chain that changes that 2.72-4.0 without changing the normal drive ratio... so you get even MORE power and crawl ratio SYE: your driveshaft (rear only) has a slip joint at the t-case, so the shaft rides on splines that come out of the t-case which is fine, but when you lift/flex alot the DS can move out enough to slip off the t-case splines and get totally fubar-d. the SYE changes it to match the front shaft, the d-s will need a slip joint in the middle of it and the output of the t-case becomes fixed so that the shaft does all the slipping by itself and you don't have to worry about hella flex and losing your shaft. some SYE's (commonly referred to as heavy-duty or HD SYE's) will increase the spline count of your output shaft (common t-case failure point) and the overall diameter of this shaft which = more strength. SYE's and low-range kits will require tearing down/partially rebuilding the t-case hope that helps :cheers: :cheers: -nick

like the title says, this weekend, sunday-tuesday my brother and i are gonna be at tellico, nc wheelin some stocker trails in the manche and then hopefully rashin the XJ up on some of the tougher trails. if anyone's gonna be in the area and wants to meet up and wheel PM me an i'll give ya my cell # stock MJ XJ 6.5" short-arms, 35" bfg MT, arb/det lockers, super30/44 hacked top, custom rustoleum paint job ;) i'm so excited, we havent been in 2 years, last time we went the XJ was stock :eek:

JB waterweld will do it, just gotta be clean and dry when you patch it.

yeah i wouldn't ever try to claim one is stronger than the other. basically when it comes to the two its MJ44 first... if you can't get that then whichever is closest/cheapest/easiest.

well then you'll probably want 4.10-4.56 for 33's and 4.56-4.88 for 35s... depends on whether you drive alot of interstate or not, but really with a stick shift most people say go as deep as possible (4.88) and if its 88 or lower you will have the BA10 transmission (weak) and 89 is the mid-year swap so you might have it and 90+ is the AX15 (tough) ford 8.8 vs d44... i don't debate, theyre both tough axles, get whichever you can find easiest/cheapest/closest.

well stock you're gonna have (based on your engine/transmission combo) we'll assume stick shift 4.0L you have 3.07 gears... which is fine (arguably) for stock tires... but when you get huge tires on it, you'll be chillin in 4th gear at 60 miles an hour. and taking off from a stop will suck so with a 33-35" tire usually the gear choice is somewhere 4.10-4.88 depending on how you want them

that sensor controls fuel-air mixture based on the temp of your engine, so if you disconnected it its running rich as hell since it automatically assumes its -40 and richens up the fuel-air as much as possible. ;)

:bowdown: :cheers:

the engine's won't fire quickly because of the Crankshaft position sensor, it takes at least a full revolution of the motor to be sure when to fire and then fires... other cars start quickly (IE gm motors) because they either remember where it was, or guess and adjust quickly a new CPS with the replacement harness (runs the wires from the CPS directly to the computer instead of through the wire harness) will decrease time's a little but not much its still gonna take a few cranks

i checked on there but that doesn't look right... how can i be sure thats not hte one in the head for the gauge? cause the connector on the one i have now is like 2 1/2 inches long then it goes to wire

i need the part number for a renix 4.0 truck, i need the one in the side of the block that goes to the computer NOT the one for the gauge... if anyone has that that would be sweet.

nope, the LB is 6" longer in weelbase too, 119 instead of the SBs 113

if you're lookin that cheap, go for stock ZJ steering at a JY or someone who's got it. its a bit beefier than XJ/MJ steering is and won't cost an arm and a leg.

oh... gotcha, i was thinking of the same connector then, i just didn't know where it went. :roll: thats the one you have to wiggle on the XJ periodically when she gets cranky and won't start.

:eek: sheesh, share the wealth. and give me the j-truck and a ckee. :cheers:

does the 2.5 TBI have a throttle position sensor? i know i messed up and put my TPS in the wrong way on my 4.0 and it caused backfiring issues and funky running issues til i fixed it

that's a great kit considering it's bolt on... and would probly do the trick for ya if you feel like drilling/reaming the knuckles and pitman arm the JCR setup is a little beefier just cause it uses larger chevy 1-ton TRE's course then you have to get a reamer or pay someone to ream it. so its more $$