Oizarod115

:huh???: I have in my possession an unknown year internal slaw ax15 from a yj that was behind a 4.2. I intend on putting this behind a 97 4.0L and was wondering if anyone knows how I can determine up front what pilot bushig will fit or tell me what the measurements are so I can check it with a micrometer. Thanks all, Nick

What didn't go as planned? just a bad day at work. I carefully picked the rustiest door (which will get replaced) to throw it at. this was the 90 eliminator I threw it at, not any of the other ones. i got pissed a couple months ago and folded up a rag bucket at work and spent the next 30 minutes or so doin body work on it cause my boss was NOT pleased. :cheers: i know allllll about the :headpop:

No no, you got to read it backwards. Driver Returns On Foot. :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2:

if its a cash for clunkers jeep then definitely go for it

Huh... Huhhuh... Bevis laugh... I was thinking about the door stop pin whoops!

went to see the statue of liberty, freaked about my flight being cancelled, flight became uncancelled, gave her a new squishy pillow from the m&m store on times square then kissed her by and caught my flight back home. she got back today around 2pm. we were in new york btw ;)

next time you have a vacuum leak problem get a can of ether and spray (lightly) around intake/hoses while the truck is idling, you will notice a change in running when you find the hole. :cheers:

i also agree with if there is enough room the 4200 out of a like a trail blazer is a good one too, same stuff.

that motor seems like a GREAT swap candidate... the thing is powerful as stink, and a fairly solid design from what ive experienced at the shop. i say go for it. i work at a volvo specialty shop and 70% of our customer base is made up of 850s, s/v70s, s60s, s80s, or xc90s all of which either have to have or are available with an I5 and its a GREAT engine. no problems, smooth as glass, revvs beautifully and does very well for itself especially in turbo application. i see no reason why the chevy i5 would be irksome

called the solicitors office of gwinnett county and faxed over the necessary information for them to drop my registration ticket (don't ask, newB cop DA ticket for somethin thats not illegal) so tomorrow i can get the tag on it and drive it again!

ive only seen one and it was on a non-MT truck. most common i'm gonna guess at 4cyl-stick-2wd second most common 6cyl 4wd (can't guess on stick or auto) common: sportruck

ack! those things are HIDEOUS ugh. 600 bucks, if it serves your purposes i guess it's good for you though.

here's my local pap price list... http://www.pullapart.com/Pricing/Main.aspx? online inventory (vehicle only, no info on parts) 3 of their yards are close enough to visit often.

i've never seen bushings in a cherokee/mj door... ?

one thing to check is the adjustment on the TPS (throttle position sensor) you'll need a voltmeter to backprobe the wires at the connector and find out if it's reading properly. see this website for more details. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm if that sensor is adjusted correctly then we can move towards a manual adjustment, it's possible someone was screwing with it before you bought it.

yeah, sounds like a heat related issue which would point to bad sensor or relay, mainly pointing to... the CPS!!! this is difficult to test but if your cps is original you should probably replace it even if its not the problem (today)

definitely check out the transfer-case shifter linkage, if its FUBAR you can pull the whole assembly as one pretty easy at a junkyard, and it doesn't need beef-d up when its working properly, you won't break it with normal use. (maybe if you used a steel-toed boot to shift it)

champion copper plugs, don't go fancy she won't like them. if yuo go to the dealer you will receive champion plugs in a mopar box. if you absolutely must get something other than that, an autolite or an NGK is a good plug. but like i said, don't get platinum or any of that crap. renix jeeps run best with standard copper plugs.

yeah, shy away from that "lightened crank" you want a 12-weight crank if yuo're gonna do it. and you don't need a 4.2 head, won't help you any.

ahaha, i know exactly what you've got goin on, except i never painted mine black... so it's that horrible green color :clapping:

yes, the fan shroud is more there to direct airflow, without it the fan is able to just blow air around instead of being forced to draw it through the radiator. i agree with CW, nature of the beast. things to make sure of -the new radiator if its 2-core and plastic tanks (you want a 3-core all aluminum piece 1800-radiator has them at a good price) - high flow water pump, thermostat, and housing (one without the others is useless.) - water wetter will help too. -hood vents will relieve some of the trapped hot-air but idk if it will actually cause a reduction in engine temperature.

a 95-96 cherokee booster is a bolt-in swap, but you will need to bend new brake lines to go from the master-prop valve (also two metric-standard adapter fittings) lookin about like 25-30 bucks in brake lines (high estimate) and you'll need booster, master cylinder and either a different brake light switch setup or drill the rod out and make it fit.

i also agree with this greatly, hyundai and kia have come a LONG way. both good cars.

you're going to HATE working on a VW. they are about the least fun thing you can wrench on. Although buying new a TDI wouldn't give you any trouble for a longgg time but it will eventually need something EXPENSIVE. i would suggest the v6 honda accord... very high quality piece, easy to work on and don't tear up much. also, take a look at the toyota camry/corolla, also a high quality piece (even though they're gettin some REALLY bad press right now)

WOW :bowdown: