Oizarod115

under the truck there will be a metal line going into the transmission bellhousing on the drivers side little more than halfway up. the other line that comes back out will have a bleeder screw on the end of it.

i picked one up at a pullapart :dunno: sorry dunno if anyone carries it.

bleeding procedure on the clutch is just like a brake job, you want to try to get the master itself bled a little before you install it, but then crawl under the truck and crack the bleeder while someone is depressing the pedal. then close the bleeder and release pedal. repeat as necessary.

i installed the shifter and had to kill my hand-throttle cable to do so, so i'll be needing another one of those. (bike shop!) also decided to hammer the floor more before i decide to cut it.

You should expect to spend 45-70$ on a bendix one from any local parts chain. Not hard to find and easy to install

i personally have always had good service from rustys, and generally get my parts next day. :dunno: heard some horror stories though.

whoops, got em-backwards :oops: my bad guys!

most likely nothing has been damaged by this. there could be other components worn out from old age/use/abuse, but a failing u-joint will not harm anything unless it actually breaks in which case often-times the axleshaft does not survive

be very careful not to scratch up the crank where the seal rides, and be DOUBLY careful not to put the seal in backwards... pretty sure it only works one way.

depends on what you're doing i have a 97 engine (smaller 1.01" crank pilot hole) and the early 89-91 transmission with the .594" input shaft if your setup is similar to this you will need a pilot bushing from a 90 4.0L 5spd, and a machine shop to cut the outside diameter to 1.01" (i don't know if they can do this with a bearing but i know they can with a bushing) it cost me 20$ to get it cut. if you have the engine that came in your truck (87-90) and a late transmission 92+ you will need the CJ pilot bushing. i can get you the dorman part number for the bushing i had cut down tomorrow i saved it in my box. and i know my box is a KRA series, don't konw the exact # (Does yours have that funky-@$$ trim too? i wanna buy chrome but 200$ is steep just for appearances.) i bought mine used off the snap-on guy for 1200$ a couple years ago. perfect condition though.

i've been abusing mine for 40k miles now, and with a fresh 4.0L a manual tranny and 4wd its been ABUSED. the peugot and d35 have served my purposes great. theyre both in line for replacement just because i found a 44 and a free ax15 (time for clutch anyways)

you're probably not going to get that cover off without pulling the transmission and flywheel off the motor. it may be possible but i doubt it. there should be a 13 mm going into it from the top on the passenger side from the engine side.

i like pictures so i'll just post some more. old clutch disc, just about to the rivets. she was spent! the transmission, i pulled the t-case to beat on the floorpan, you can see the hammer marks on the left. new plan is to take a D30 diff cover, cut a hole in the floor and use the cover to make a clearance panel for the t-case. truck on the lift. dirty 10 spokes top of my box

i was wondering wth that screenname was all about, i figured you had a mj and crashed it out. lol :cheers:

:redX: :nuts:

8k lbs is definitely minimum for a jeep. that weight rating is only for the first wrap of cable, so when the cable is fully extended (less leverage) it's actually got significantly less than 8k lbs

sounds like your engine is getting compression into the crankcase which is most likely a head gasket failure, but could be a cracked head. have you verified the super-high oil pressure with a real gauge yet?

:rotfl2:

amazing how much lighter the puegot is than the aisin transmission, i bet its a good 10-20 lbs lighter. i suppose i should say the AX is a good 10-20lbs beefier! junk french crap. :clapping: got the transmission in it today, filled up the t-case, chopped off the little funky outcropping to the top left, and found out i do need to clearance the body a little for the case to clear b/c of the YJ tranny. so i'll pull the case and make a dent tomorrow. still need to bleed the clutch, re-install exhaust, and check driveshaft clearance b/c the sealed yoke output t-case is an inch longer than the older one. :ack: DOH! hopefully it'll work or i'll have to lift sooner than expected.

I'm on up there somewhere. ill have to post this and see.

the rear driveshaft will work in that style yoke (just put my ax15/sealed yoke case in today) but the output on that t-case is going to measure an inch longer than the older style. so you may need a shorter driveshaft or lift at the same time. i haven't let mine off the lift so i don't know if it will bottom the shaft out yet or not, might know tomorrow.

:cheers: so i've been planning this swap for 4 years now and I've finally got it going on. replacing my 89 BA10 with an 89.5-91 AX15 from a YJ, and replacing my 89 231 with a 2001 sealed output 231. new clutch kit from sachs, and a custom pilot pushing since the 97 motor and the early AX were never put together. now for some pictures. shiny new clutch oooh ahhh. the underside (she hasn't been washed lately) comparison picture, notice the angle of the transfer case (attempted to get the picture as level as it would be installed. compared to the YJ ax notice the transfer case is alot higher. hopefully she'll clear! ugh! thats a pretty funky goat! check out the funky warped and discolored flywheel! shot of the fixed yoke 231

if it was a fuel pump issue it wouldn't be THAT you were getting fuel it would be HOW MUCH fuel you were getting. i replaced the fuel pump in an astro van over the summer to fix a no-start, and it came back 6 months later with an intermittent loss of power, stumbling, just generally running like crap. warrantied the (ac-delco) pump, and its good again. do you have a pressure gauge to use on the fuel rail? if so you could also test the fuel pressure regulator

upon starting your jeep should see an instant rev to about 1500-2000 would be acceptable and then settling down to idle within 2-5 seconds. long crank time happens, you can try priming the fuel pump by turning the truck to run for a few seconds then hitting start, instead of just rotating the switch directly from off to start. this will ensure you have full fuel pressure while cranking