Oizarod115

agreed, and keep in mind that to have a bad master cylinder just requires not having any clutch, sometimes it has leaks and other stuff too but when my clutch master died it was just no clutch... system held fluid fine, started up in gear worked all right just NO clutch, went out in a matter of days. so it could be more than one thing. maybe swap the 88s MC with the 92's (only takes bout 15-20 minutes plus bleeding it so maybe an hour) ?

my brothers got the cragar soft 8s on his XJ and they are a bad little rim. not flashy, not BEEFY, not expensive... just right. i would run them heck for 30 bucks a peice shipped thats about half of most american racing rims i've got pics of his XJ you can have if you want, but its a cherokee soo...

... who on earth thought it would be a good idea to swap the brake and hoodpop latches? wth? and WOW... on the tail lights... did they plan on driving it again? or was it a hack and tap to mess with the next person to buy it? wth? overall pretty decent lookin though. looks like you'll be the one to treat it right!

look at it then make the offer, check AX15 or BA10... thatll change the value, HOW cold is the a/c... iknow texas gets just as toasty if not more than ga so you'll want gooood @$$ a/c :brows:

my only qualm with that backbone is look how much grille the winch covers up... i don't know about your jeeps, but mine doesn't like to stay cool as it is... especially when offroading. other than that its completely BA! i could run a nice, high angle of attack bumper with it too.

i installed a new clutch master cylinder on my truck, didn't mess with the slave though. all i did was find the bleeder valve on the side of the bellhousing, attach 1/4" dia. hose to end of valve, (don't remember the size but i used an open ended wrench to open/close valve. run hose from valve into clean cup of brake fluid. have one person in truck pumping pedal and one outside opening/shutting valve. begin depressing pedal SLOWLY, then open valve, and wait til pedal is depressed, leaving it depressed close valve. repeat. (end of hose should stay in fluid at all times) this procedure can be found in your chiltons manual, thats where i got it from the first time.

Ah great, thanx for the tip!! you'll lose some flex though with a shorter shackle, although I'm not sure how much

tha's one dirty heep. ya make it through?

you mentioned the PO of the 92 said if you dump clutch fluid into it itll work for a day... thats not a bleeding problem, but a leak somewhere. AX15s didnt come behind 4cylinders in 88, not sure about 92 but I'm pretty sure one will be AX4 (4speed) and the other AX5. radiators only take about an hour or two to change... and that's on the trail. one of the easiest cooling system jobs cause there's no gasketing to change, but if you change it buy some LARGE screw-style hose clamps, because the OEM ones are a bear.

hmm... you used usps? definately haven't gotten it... how long ago was this?

maybe they crossthreaded the wrong one on there... don't remember if your year was metric or SAE?

did you ever get around to mailin out that windshield banner? been wondering off and on bout that haha.

never done that, but i did ram the brake and the gas once while wearing my boots... luckily the clutch was on the floor so i didn't ram the car infront of me.. .i just made a whole lot of noise :popcorn:

yeah, it takes a cotter pin but I'm lazy and it hasn't been that big of a deal, new full RE suspension in ~6 months so I'm not worried about it at this point, i just give it a good tug of the ratchet every once in a while.

should be a nice swap, what is in the truck? (i must've not read that part, lazy :roll: ) i bet you can't wait to have a 4.0!

if you ever notice a pop when you are driving straight and turn the wheel slightly, or any other funny things with the steering be sure to grab stuff down there and wiggle it! my track bar comes loose periodically, and makes a pop when the truck is going straight and i turn a little. tighten it up and bam! good for a few months.

yeah, cause brett's truck doesnt have a TCU its a manual>auto swap with just switches to control it (or it was, idk if he's revamped it since i last read about it) but you can manually send power to the switches, i don't remember where the diagram/writeup is... it might be on awshifting.com or go-jeep?

shhh, they'll find us! :beerhead:

:rotf: that engine is AWFUL exposed to mud and stuff. someone should :thwak: him

only bad thing i can think of when rockcrawlin/wheelin an auto was how hard it is to stop, my brother has a 4.0 AW4 with 4.88s and it is hard to stop in low range. whereas in a manual you can hit the clutch without shifting it to nuetral like dirty said. other than that i like wheelin auto. haven't tried manual though.

fill it with firewood and say that you use it to go get firewood in. :brows:

that, sounds good.

so what's your opinions on driveline impact? do you think a stick increases chances of u-joint failure and axleshaft breaks etc. from the lack of the "cushion" the torque converter gives?

hahaha nice... that's truly crazy

nah man, THIS angle.