64 Cheyenne

Any deal is good if you have the XJ and your pocket book ends up in the + when your done. Honestly - :thumbsup:

Yup, another one of those MJ things that are "one of those parts" that you keep your eyes open for.

Just a side note buck987si, near the top of the page towards the left side is a part that says "bookmarks", you can put all your bookmarked CC pages there. Things like this thread and any others that might be of interest to you. Makes finding things that you have read on Comanche Club much easier to find.

What is the "adapter" part under the lug wrench?

I like it, saves or makes me money every time I use the changer or install airsoft BBs.

That is pretty much the tire changer that I have. I also have the motorcycle wheel adapter, used that last week for my sportys back tire. Saves me money again and again. For weight, I use this chart http://www.innovativebalancing.com/chart.htm I use airsoft BBs instead of their product. Put them in my Harley back wheel, I feel that the ride is definitely better than a dynamic balance. Dynamic balancing can go out of balance after time, the bbs position themselves perfectly every time. I weigh the correct amount (BBs) on a postage scale, put them in the tire before I inflate it. For your situation, you will probably be ahead to pay somebody. For me, I do a lot of work on vehicles, fix tires for friends. I've been able able to recoup my costs. If you see more tire work in your future........

Are they worth 65$ bucks? To me the other parts were just throw ins.

I have a HF tire m/unmount. paid for itself already. Don't think you can do heavy off road tires, maybe you can with some help. Then what about balance? More $, Me I put 7oz airsoft BBs in my 31 10 treadwrights. No issues what so ever. If the rims and tires are nice, suggest you bite the bullet, pay someone, or make friends with a tire guy. Then there is the oldest way of all, get two long tire spoons (maybe 30 +/-) each and do it the hard way on the ground.

Since you stated in your first post that you had a wandering issue, I'd make sure to do a thorough inspection first. Did you jack up the front end check for slop in the unit bearings and ball joints? Inspect the frame area around the steering box and upper track bar mounting areas for cracks? On my 88 the clunk that I couldn't find wasn't from the track bar itself but the upper mount that bolts to the frame. My fix was to remove the TB, beef the bottom end mount with a washer welded in, for the upper end I made sure all the bolts were tight then I spot welded the bracket to the frame. Three sides on the horizontal surfaces and a couple more on each of the vertical surfaces. no more clunk. I finally found the loose bracket from the movement marks by the the two bolts closest to the engine. As for bushings, I replaced all the control arm bushings and the sway bar bushings. Now the 88 feels weird to drive, no more excitement, wander etc. I recommend rubber bushings.

Got these from a CC board member today. 65$ delivered for all. Anybody ever seen adjusters like these before? I tried to compare them against ACOS, ACOS look like NASA stuff compared to these. These are 100% steel, will definitely do the job. When rollovercomancheguy told me 65$ delivered, my heart almost skipped a beat, I thought there is no way this was going to happen. When I got a box in the mail today (3 days after I paid him) I felt like jumping for joy! I finally got the next best thing to ACOS. :banana: Now next thing, has anybody ever seen these before? Who or where were these made? Are these possibly from overseas? For discos I was going to make my own, probably still will. But for now I just have to decide what MJ I'll put this stuff on. For now, into parts bin they go. I got the throttle body because, I needed a new TPS for the 88Chief...... Hopefully cure the intermittent runaway RPMs at start up.

I'll let you have it for 20$ plus shipping. Shipping cost? Need a delivery zip.

:agree: All else fails, I have a bellhousing that I'd let you have for cheap (cover my time and costs).

Me, I'm tired of using a lot of this summers free time on the 88 Chief. With that being said, I would or should I say this is what I'm going to do to the 87. Just got an 95 XJ 150k mi, AX-15 231, 200$. Aw heck, the 87 is the project truck, I say I just want to get it done, not make the to do list any longer. But what I say and actually do.... I've already got a huge amount of parts, done lots of work on it, I'm sure it will get a thorough inspection and leak down test then I'll decide further, if the engine has good oil pressure or not, whether to touch the caps or not. All green lights: pressure, leak down = just basic gaskets and run it. Anything else = more time and $ How far you wanting to go? When will the insanity end? Or the money run out? Didn't we talk about money and our trucks worth a while back? Insanity.......I love it :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

:agree: Every service interval device I've seen has long since "ran out". My suggestion is to unplug and forget about it. Put your efforts to something more productive for your truck.

Seems to me a good way to keep wet and damp in, provides for places that rust loves. I recommend not doing it.

Thanks for the suggestions. We shall see. :cheers:

Shifter will not go into position. Not sure when we'll tear into. Since we are only wanting to repair reverse. Will the teardown require 100% disassembly, meaning gears off of the mainshaft etc? I do have a book and since actually doing instead of reading about will probably give me my answers. We shall see.

My friend is going to make a rock buggy out of his 87. (No Title) Plan is to do a HO conversion with an AX-15. The problem is that the AX that he has will not shift into reverse. Definably not a clutch issue, he drove the XJ to their farm. Pulled the shifter cane, all looks well there. JY wants 800$ for a replacement AX-15. Looking for suggestions, we are not against disassembly, but would hopefully prefer a direct fix to the problem. Shift rail, fork, syncro etc. Are we capable? Between the three of us, definitely 3rd shop capable.

http://www.alljeep.com/oscommerce/produ ... _id=167208 On mine I used the spring plates from the Exploder, cut the shock mounts off the plates and welded them to the axle for new shock mount location. Suggest finding U bolts locally. Very common items. Would have cost me more than the U bolts were worth to have them shipped.

The board classifieds is a good place to post for parts wanted IE: left taillight...... Where better to search for Comanche parts than CC?

My understanding is that they are used to correct camber in an axle that isn't within spec. Most axles won't need them unless they are to correct an alignment issue. If the axle is within spec as measured on an alignment rack then adjustable balljoints are not needed.

Junk Yard, dime a dozen out of XJs.

Remove the CPS before the tranny is pulled, replaced last after the tranny is installed to prevent damage. Replace the two "stupid" torkx bolts at the top of the bellhousing with "real" bolts. They are a direct replacement than can be gotten from most auto parts or hardware stores.

The title to your post says quote: " Truck just shuts off when turn on heater fan". If you meant when you turned "ON" the fan, the truck dies, I'd suggest an electrical issue where a high current draw is killing the ignition. If this was the case then I'd look towards a resistance in the Batt/charging circuit caused by either dirty/bad battery cables or possibly bad grounds especially the block to chassis ground.

I sprayed 3M spray adhesive around the perimeter of the door, stuck heavy plastic to it then trimmed around outer edge of the door with a utility knife. Just make sure to clean the door well before whatever method you use.