buck987si

Need confirmation from someone before I tear into this project. I don't want to start the job without having the correct parts in hand. It's not as easy as driving over to a Jeep dealer and getting the correct parts if I find any sent to me are wrong or broken. Any clarification would be appreciated. I've been searching for proper pics or diagrams, hints, tips, pointers and suggestions when I have a chance for weeks now. Even the most current posting for help didn't really address the issues that he had asked http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?uid=29710&f=2&t=31810&start=0 Was glad to find out that jimoshel suggests to only raise the rear of the truck as it may keep the transmission closer to level when removing it. He also suggests to use a couple of studs or bolts with their heads cut off to help with the aligning of the transmission when pulling and also putting it back on.

Ok, the parts that needed to be shipped to me are slowly coming in. I've got a Clutch master cylinder and a Slave Cylinder from a Jeep dealer in Cali. Here's a pic of the 2, the Clutch master cyl looks correct as it's easy to see right under the hood. Does the Slave cyl look correct?

While looking for the better prices online Ive come across rebuild kits for both the Cluth Mast cyl and the Slave cyl. I wonder how that would work out? If I'm the one doing the rebuild on both units I would know how well the work was done. Just trying to tackle this problem from a different angle. Like most of the other posts I've read, it doesn't hurt to save a lil' bit of money if the job can be accomplished without sacrificing the end result of competent replacement/repair.

Ok Eagle, so glad you have the time and patience to reply to my questions and concerns. Best dealer price I've found for a Clutch Master Cylinder w/short shaft is $252(in Cali). Slave Cylinder for $232(Seattle area) is the best price I've come across. Based on the measurement given by one of the Jeep parts guys- the short shaft(approx 3 1/4"- 3 1/2") appears to be what is what is on my truck. While searching I'd come across some dead links to what were desscribed then to be decent dealer parts at great prices. Does anyone have a current place to buy Jeep parts that are not marked up all that much? This clutch repair/replacement is nearing $600-$700 just in parts alone, glad I'm planning on doing all the labor myself, . Not sure if that is the norm, sure seems pretty steep.

I've run into the same decision and searching issues you're dealing with. Best dealer price I've found for a Clutch Master Cylinder w/short shaft is $252. Found out it's better to get the Slave Cylinder from a dealer also and $232 is the best price I've come across. So hamilton, what did you end up going with? Curious to find out what worked or didn't work for you.

Thanks Eagle, the clutch cable I listed shows my earlier confusion with this job. You've helped me simplify it so easily. I Contacted a Jeep dealer near me in Seattle. They're quoting $185.39 Master cyl with a short shaft and $262.71 Slave cyl. Tried to get a complete system like BLHTAZ was taliking about in another post- Master cyl, hose, slave cyl- but found out he was referring to a complete clutch hydraulic system for a '94(ext slave cylinder). Besides their length, what is the difference between the long shaft and the short shaft? Which do I need?

So, here's my list of possible things to be changed. 1-Disc 2-Pressure plate 3-Slave cyl/throw out bearing 4-Pilot bearing 5-Flywheel(necessary according to Exedy warranty requriements) 6- Clutch Cable 7- Clutch Master Cylinder 8- Clutch hose I'm still not completely clear on this, but #'s 3,7,8 would be done with the purchase of a Complete Clutch Hydraulic Assembly from a Jeep dealer? I do live in semi-rural Alaska and part orders can take as few as 2-3 days and as many as 3-4 weeks(possible but rare) so I want to dive into the job as few times as I'd have to and would like to acquire all necessary parts before starting the repair. Family and friends have said it's not necessary to replace the flyweel. Exedy warranty say it should. Not sure which way to go with that. If I've missed something please, please point it out to me

Hi guys, you've helped me out with questions before. So surprised there is no DIY thread for changing a clutch. My head is spinning with all the searching and reading about different situations others have been involved in with their clutch repair/replacement. I've got a '87 Comanche 6 cyl 4x4 with the original Puegueot 5 speed tran. I've bought an Exedy complete kit from Amazon, it just arrived today. While waiting for it, I've learned throughout here of possible reasons to change Clutch Mast cyl and slave cyl. also changing the cable, and changing the rubber hose between Clutch Master Cyl and slave cyl. I've read your guys' reasons for going with a OE replacement Clutch Mast cyl and the slave cyl(that's also the throw out bearing right?) that comes with all both Clutch cylinders and all hoses involved in the entire system? I plan on keeping this truck as long as I can. I've come to the conclusion our Clutch systems are not like most other vehicles either US or Japanese. I want to confirm all parts that probably should be changed out so I won't have to deal with old/original failing components in the near future.

Thanks M1A1TankerTom, words that I was hoping not to be confirmed. Isn't it strange that more than one reliable site would say that it is compatible? TeamCherokee being out of stock was the main reason I had to try some other places. No go for me with a wrecking yard nearby. Will have to send back and try another brand I guess. Plan C would force me to get a complete set off of a '98 Cherokee(I think I read somewhere) that would allow me to have one single key for doors and ignition. Still open to any suggestions or help, maybe the rod connector that matches the Standard lock cylinders, but what yr and model?

I've gotten this lock cylinder set from Amazon. Both Amazon and Rock Auto Parts list this as the proper replacement. Anyone out there who can help?!

Ok finally got to update like I meant to lol. Track bar fix didn't last more than a month. In November I ended up ordering and installing a new Moog track bar and with the Moog front sway bar bushing kit she now rides very well. March, warmer weather I installed a new Sony head unit with Alpine amp and 12" Kicker truck box- thumps enough for me! April, the thermostat and/or gasket for it crapped out. When replacing decided to put in new upper and lower radiator hoses. May, I changed all 4 corners of the brakes. Not just new pads and shoes I changed every bit of the brakes- all the e brake cables, rotors, drums, all hardware kits, all except for the calipers and cylinders- they aren't leaking and looked decent so I decided to just leave well enough alone. As spring/summer has come along I've put in new cap/rotor, plug wires, battery terminals, serpentine belt, pcv tube, driver's side needed a new door jamb switch, fixed the 2 dome lights. Just installed sirius sat radio last week. Future projects, I'm looking to try and tint my own windows, re-cover the headliner, beef up the rear suspension and try and find a frame mounted rear tow hitch, have the oil pressure and cooling temp parts for the engine to swap the gauge cluster-now just need a compatible cluster! Hopefully can get the upper and lower control arms upgraded by summer's end. Right now I'm tackling my driver's door cylinder and have a new thread started on it. Really appreciate everyones help and postings. I've learned a ton from this site. I just might know as much about my Comanche as I do about my CRX! :cheers:

Hey guys, my driver's door lock cylinder crapped out on me and I've got a new set. Standard part #DL22 The new one is very different then the original, not even close for the connecting rod pieces. Anyone else run into this dillema? After searching through here very thoroughly, I cannot find a "self help solution". Here's a pic of the new and old cylinders with the connecting piece

Ok 64 Cheyenne, getting closer to the desired "weird" feeling you described! :brows: 1st a huge thanks for pointing out the bookmark feature. Guess I've been so focused on reading and searching I completely spaced that feaure out. :oops: Decided to not order a track bar, $ concerns forced me to just order new bushings. Lucked out- it appears that was the only area that was causing the clunk. The wandering has been greatly reduced already, it'll be sweet when finally getting all the front bushings replaced. Lesson learned from ordering online though. Make sure you know what is included in a sway bar end link kit. The brand and place I ordered from didn't point out, that, even though it says "kit" it was only for one side of the sway bar :nuts: Impatiently waiting for the other end kit to arrive lol :roll: As time and $ allows I will move forward with replacement of the tie rod ends. Most likely to get some WJ upper and lower control arms n their bushings. Frame mounted hitch, rims and tires, as much(or little depending on how you look at it) lift as can be done and keep things near stock as possible. So so far so good ;) I won't celebrate just yet 'till all the bushings get replaced. Will try and keep this post updated with each step accomplished. Big thanks to you both :bowdown: Eagle and :bowdown: Cheyenne 64, you took a chance and shared your knowledge and I am extemely grateful :yes:

Thank you 64 Cheyenne. I did have the Wife turn the wheel, but now recognize I didn't recall to leave the front jacked up. :doh: With the wheels on the ground test though, the upper connection of the track bar was the only "joint" area that did show any major movement. I understand through other posts I've read that there may be other areas which may be changed that are causing the clunk sound, one culprit could also be a ball joint. I will complete the test once again with the front up. :fool: I'm really glad you have described in detail what and where to weld and or add washers to the track bar connections that will save me the headache of trying to find the posts I read about the washers to be welded etc. I learned after a while to save to favorites in a Comanche repair folder and label it so I could remember what info was given. Can't wait to get the same weird feeling you've gotten driving this Comanche. It is now my truck, yesterday was my birthday and my Grampa gave it to me! :cheers: Went and got himself a '10 Ford Ranger ext cab 4x4, it's an automatic which makes for a much less stressful drive for his age(plus he won't have the steering issue 8) ).

lol, Eagle you gave me what to do nearly word for word I recall from a series of posts that guy started about his steering or death wobble and got yours and a bunch of other suggestions and then he tried to quit or just wish it away after like nealy 2 pages of input. I truly remember the steering box centering you are talking about and will most likely go ahead with it even if the the trac bar and tie rod ends replacements do tighten up the steering again. Brakes and steering, safety first, may help us live a lil' longer Thanks again Eagle