64 Cheyenne

This is coming along nicely. My commendations to all those who pitched in, in any way. Hope I ain't jumping the gun too soon, I'll even offer up my 88 for test fit/ product testing :brows: Sooooo.............. When can I put my name on a List? :yes:

Next time you chip a tooth, ask the dentist to take it all the way down to the frame I mean the gum, and install a new one where the old one used to be.

Do you have higher flowing injectors and an adjustable MAP sensor? Sounds like possible lean fuel problem. I only pasted one link here, but there is a bunch of good info on this site. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm

Doesn't burn as easy when on fire.

Pic is too small to see detail.

Ok thats not to bad I think thats what Ill do then. And thanks a bunch for the torque specs I was WAY over that :wall: here's a pic of what It looks like Brandon First, I wouldn't cut it at the frame, could cause more problems. I would cut the remaining threaded part flush with the top of the stud. then get a 1 1/2" grade 8 bolt from the hardware store, cut the head off flush bevel the bolt back at about a 45* to give space for the weld, weld, clean up, done. Spend more time with the GF as you obviously aren't now as evidenced by your snapping bolts off :rotf: Oh to be young again......

Either or, I'm in.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... ndex2.html

Thanks MiNi Beast! That's the kind of answer I was looking for. :cheers:

Just bought 2 of these these, almost gone. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-Che ... 45f5837c36

I'll be nice, please reread the thread carefully. The old guy don't care if it is a "heat exchanger" or a "whatchamacallit." He has one of the nicest looking/built MJs that I've seen (in person). He don't want spliced lines or aftermarket "coolers", he just want's what works and looks like it came from the factory. Now can anybody provide a source for a decent 2 or 3 row HO style radiator with the cooler lines on the left side? Used would be OK also.

We thought about that,but since his son is doing an HO AX-15 conversion on his MJ, the son will use the radiator that we ordered already and his dad wants one with the lines on the left side. Far as time goes, the old man is retired, the 86 is his money pit and he wants the lines to go in on the left side. All else fails, we'll splice the lines.

My friend is putting a 4.6 with AW4 in his 86. The I-6 conversion is already done but with Renix cooling. Now he wants to go with HO cooling. The problem is the tranny cooler lines, on the Renix the lines came in on the left side of the radiator. On the HO radiator we ordered the lines came in on the right side. Wrong year HO radiator? Are we going to have to run the lines from the left to the right side? What year we need if? possible link? Ed

Brandon I see that you used the Exploder spring plates with the shocks mounted to them. On the Chief I just cut those mounts off of the Explorer plates cleaned them up, plates and mounts and welded them to the axle about 1" past full droop. That way at full droop the axle will hang on the springs, not the shocks. I think your nearly there just remount your current shocks.

$$$ ?

I welded mounts to my axle (double shear) 1" short of full droop.

As the title says Must be out of an MJ

Are you meaning so that you can remove the key from the ignition with it still running? If so, how do you do it? I could do that on my TJ, thought the key was worn, probably was.

A lot depends on how much you want to spend. Dana 44 or AMC 20 out of an MJ is by far the easiest but a little hard to come by. 8.25 Chrysler is a decent choice, but the spring perches need to be moved. My favorite by far is the Exploder 8.8. I have done three of these so far, highly recommend it. The 8.8 really is not a bad choice especially if you can set the spring perches yourself. Not hard, just do your home work and you'll get it done. I like to point out, If you have an MJ, sooner or later you will learn a lot of the MJ tricks and techniques. Myself, I never thought I could swap rear ends until I found out that it can be done with a little research and effort. Or you could just do it the easy way and write a check :rotf:

What about rotten/shorted front turn signal sockets?

Factory slider has a rubber gasket. Aftermarket does not, has full metal "frame".

My 88 has an AX-15, I run Royal Purple in it. This is not about what oil etc, it is about warming the tranny/TC on a extreme cold day (below zero) for easier shifting. Last week it was below zero for a few days. It was so cold that I could barely shift into first, let alone make the change from first to second. My solution, Leave the trans in 5th gear, 4 low. 5th gear because on start up push in the clutch, shift TC to neutral-1 step forwards (tranny stays in 5th gear), let her run for a few minutes during warm up. 5th gear keeps everything spinning faster for quicker easier shifting sooner. Leaving in 5th keeps the truck from rolling when parked, but don't count on it. Mechanical advantage of 5th gear overcomes engine compression easily. You should only do this on level ground. 5th on the tranny so I don't have to shift into when cold. Why not use the E brake, because it gets wet then freezes solid. Does the TC pump run when the TC lever is in neutral? I don't know. Is it harmful to the TC? IDK This is only for the few weeks of the year when we deal with subzero temps. Besides, 231s are plentiful. Theoretically you could do this with an auto, actually I don't see why not.

Pics?

Got the visor yesterday. Thanks Ben :cheers:

Renix or HO, and where did you get them from?