64 Cheyenne

5 speed V8 Grand Cherokee, one year only.

I've recently had tilt MJ buckets apart (totally redone for the 88) I can't recall any mechanism or anything that could keep them tilted forward, the tilt locking mechanism (latch) is located at the lower rear center of the seat....maybe the seats are "tilted" forward, there is a side lever for this and a lot of times the tilt lever is missing or broken.

Didn't run KBB numbers, but think that is high for a vehicle that don't run.

Gotcha! Thanks and cool!

Friend of a friend, of a friend, many years ago, 3 states away, and who is now deceased, did this...on the "good" Vin (bad dash), he took a phillips screw driver ... I posted and decided to edit because what I posted was probably too graphic and some could have construed what I posted in bad way ie shady uses of the method, so I edited the post. Sorry.

These other guys seem to know what your talking about, and I'll admit that I don't have a clue.... I'm just curious about what and where this switch is and what will it do, turn OD off on the shifter? Also know that this is an over the top swap, for lack of a better word. And from what I read is this a shifter for an auto tranny, and why the shift light?

So the state police will drill out the old vin (your good one) and then drill out and replace on your new dash with new rosette rivets? No muss no fuss? And if you take the dash to them, how do they know you puttin it back on the right truck?

Aztek be fugly forever. don't think you can do anything to help it besides put it out of its misery and crush it.

Very easy to swap over and depending on the state it is allowable for the purposes of repair and restoration. Yup, just don't drill the rivets out....ever.

Current vin is on old dash, oh never mind....

He is joking, you done well, black interior stuff is sooooo hard to come by, what I'd give for that black dash..... roadtrip half way across the country for it if I had too. PM me if you have issues with the vin #s on the dash. Whatever you do, suggest you do not drill the rivets out of the old dash. Seriously.

My suggestion is to leave the dust shield off when you get it apart next time. Rocks and other debris has a way of finding its way between the rotor and dust shield causing odd squeal scraping noises. I always leave mine off, and on the 8.8 it's cut above the step off line so it can still hold e brake components. (the dust shield)

Done deal, pics will follow in my updated build of the 88, coming soon. (Winch, bumper, bed bar, rock rails, seats, paint, and more...) And the 3/8 bolt vs using a M10 bolt, don't do it, the 3/8 is clearly smaller and would work, but the engineer in the back of my head says it is not correct and puts a weak spot in the system. Saying "it don't matter" to put an SAE in place of a metric especially in this application is in my opinion, bad advice. My whole point of this thread was the bolt size, I had 3/8" bolts but they felt sloppy, didn't have the correct metric bolts and was hoping for someone to give me the correct metric size. No sketchy "They'll work, and it don't matter" for me cause it does matter.... And thanks for the input, cause this is how I learned about my truck (by being wrong)

What it all cost?

"I'm sure it doesn't matter..." That sure is a lot of assumptions for somebody who hasn't even seen my truck in person, the bar I'm using etc. IMHO, any increase in the protection of the cab structure especially tied into the frame with the frame brackets is a good thing. The bar I'm using, I called it a "show bar" because I didn't want to open an engineering discussion about the bar...which is plenty stout as seen mocked up in my 87 build... http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=13953 "The mounts aren't needed. If you roll it, that bar isn't gonna do much if it's mounted to the brackets or not." Again you have not seen my bar or engineering... My opinion, bad advice, telling somebody "it don't matter", it's my life and whoever I'm with, there life matters. And "isn't gonna do much" well if I'm tumblin down a mountain, and we have big ones in Montana, I'd rather take what I can get as far as better cab protection for the occupants. Sorry my engineering is better than that.... The "it doesn't matter" part was meant towards the metric/sae. Pretty much a "preference" kinda deal... same size so up to you thing.I used hardened bolts on mine.... And you're right, I have not seen your truck or bar. I read it as "factory roll bar". My bad. But even on an awesome condition mj,and I still don't know if yours is "built" or not, I think there are weaker points than the bed mounts that i/the factory be mounts are tied into. That's just my opinion. Mine is a daily driver so I don't worry about it rolling over and don't rely on the thin tube roll bar to keep the cab from crushing in. That is all I was trying to say.... Cuz I've built 2 sets of factory roll bar tie ins and know how and what they mount to. If not factory then I don't know on yours... That is all. The metric/SAE part does matter, as DirtyComanche said a 3/8 is close... but the correct bolt is a METRIC M10, if I was to use the SAE bolt, then I just threw all my efforts down the drain and should just use a "show" bar, the 3/8 fits, but I'm pretty sure it would pull through if stressed. One a side note, I wonder how many people have some type of bar in there bed and consider it a roll bar, since they did what they thought was the best engineering to get it securely installed, supplies some kind of protection and is better than just cab alone.This comment does not apply to true "show bars" that come in a box and are bolted together for looks only. My bar I'm talkin about has 2, 3" hoops welded together and 2, 3" welded together kickers both sides, plenty strong, fronts tied to factory mounts, kickers through wheel wells with strongbacks behind the sheet metal.

I would have waited til dark....just kidding, not suggesting a crime or something.

Oh and the bolts were M10x1.5x50MM so they would go through the bar, adapter plate and rubber isolators.

"I'm sure it doesn't matter..." That sure is a lot of assumptions for somebody who hasn't even seen my truck in person, the bar I'm using etc. IMHO, any increase in the protection of the cab structure especially tied into the frame with the frame brackets is a good thing. The bar I'm using, I called it a "show bar" because I didn't want to open an engineering discussion about the bar...which is plenty stout as seen mocked up in my 87 build... http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=13953 "The mounts aren't needed. If you roll it, that bar isn't gonna do much if it's mounted to the brackets or not." Again you have not seen my bar or engineering... My opinion, bad advice, telling somebody "it don't matter", it's my life and whoever I'm with, there life matters. And "isn't gonna do much" well if I'm tumblin down a mountain, and we have big ones in Montana, I'd rather take what I can get as far as better cab protection for the occupants. Sorry my engineering is better than that....

I'm gettin ready to put a roll bar in the 87 utilizing the existing factory frame tie in brackets, my question is does anybody know the pitch and diameter of the bolts that go through the bar down into the bed mounts? I haven't found any metric ones that fit, seems that a 3/8 course thread will but I was under the assumption that nearly all the bolts on the MJ were metric and if they are, what pitch? BTW I looked and couldn't find the table I thought was posted, must be gettin younger, cause when I send a kid to find something..."I can't find it".....

Ok, so how do you get the top part of the shifter cane off old the lower part where the square shaft fits onto the shifter stub? For me changing the bushing and seal is the easy part, getting the cane apart to change that first little boot :fs1:

I don't have a stroker, but I'd imagine yes. If for a stock motor and if your experiencing slow cranking speeds due to elec problem like battery, cables, and grounds I doubt it, probably wouldnt be good for any starter, even a high torque one, to be operated with than less than optimal available amperage. Elec motors don't like being asked to work without enough juice, causes them to heat up, eventually fail sooner.

I think they look good the way they are, as long as they're locked in, kind of looks like maybe an end cap could go on there for a finished look, and/or would lock the bar from walkin either way. Myself, unless I needed the bar to stick out, I'd keep the smaller one, maybe put a screw or bolt in the ends for extra security if I didn't trust the factory engineering. But if I didn't trust the factory engineering, why would I myself buy it?

Paid less for whole Jeeps, even an MJ for$100 bucks... Honestly, unless I was running a stroker...

4.0 engine, tranny, TC can be pulled as a unit also.

Since I have the console out anyways, think I'll do this also. It seems that I never get enough airflow through the defroster or floor vents in the winter.