64 Cheyenne

:agree: Then buy one of these: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/53098/10002/-1 and make a closed system, do away with the pesky pressure tank. Kind of a PIA to get the hose one the one side because it tapers, but it is doable.

I didn't like the chevron pattern thats why I bought these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husky-Liners-30001-Black-Front-Floor-Liners-1984-1994-Jeep-Cherokee-/121126925641?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c33ba3549 I did have a dislike about not being a "perfect" fit so I shimmed the floor with a piece of old mud flap to make the liner fit flatter. They have agressive nubs and don't slide around at all. Whats better/worse than these, bare floor....

Adjustable lowers. Might want to check caster angle also.

they aren't asking for any more info than you'd be giving them anyway if you placed an order. :dunno: Yeah but I make sure to tell them not to sell my info or try to sell me/send me more crap.

I would, but...I'm always freaked out giving out my info for "clubs or deals" Worry about constantly getting offers and what nots. Besides how many catalogues do I need from them a year? Then I have to unsubscribe because they flood me with a ton of stuff when I usually buy very little. So I guess "no thank you," I'll find the "deals" when I need them, just takes a little footwork, or should I say "fingerwork" on my computer. But thanks for the offer.

This is how I'm going to do it: I was going to do a complete HO swap into the 87, things change, still going to put an HO motor in it but with Renix engine controls. Since the motor is an HO I will be using a Dodge 136A alternator I got from the JY for $50, without the ECU to control it I will be regulating it with this http://alternatorparts.com/external-voltage-regulator-high-output-alternator-kit.html

Yup, did the same thing myself with the hinge bolts.

Tried to PM you and your IB was full?

I only have one on the chief, I would be interested in the black ones, I would put them in a cardboard shipping tube, or a piece of pvc pipe, glue the ends with caps or just tape the ends closed. Wrap them inside in newspaper.

The drip rails are "one of those parts" that I would not pass on even for $40. Maybe if you had info on where they were, some other memeber might want them for the $40. So actually, really, I would have taken them in a heartbeat at $40 bucks.

btt

I didnt spend money on a block off plate or bother with the hasle of making one. Didnt cut the fork either, just put the cover back on. The fork is quite a bit larger than the axle shaft so why bother... Didnt remove the bearing either, probably should have, but oh well...

Don, isn't this an interchange for an HO? and if so isn't it internal regulated and Pete has a Renix?

Well.... locker installed works great, superior U joints are Junk. I was contemplating grinding the part where the clip fits into and use full circle clips....I should have :fs1: When I put the axles together, I thought that the clip looked a little "loose" in the slot of the U joint cap, when I was showing off the front axle to a friend I realised one of the caps were missing :fs1: The U joint already trashed the outer, inner is ok. So now I'm searching for a single or a set of 297X outers. Kind of pissed me off the, Carquest guy told me that the Superior brand was "as good as Spicers" yeah right.... So from now on its Spicers or nuthing. :doh:

Check the vacuume line, its alittle plastic line that enters the cab near where the heater lines enter. Also check that your football is hooked up behind the front bumper, follow their lines back to vacuume source, football - back along right inner fender - right side of fire wall - across to left side of firewall - then to vacuume source on the engine. If that good, look under the dash at the heater box, left side, move the heater control lever (with motor running) check that the blend doors open and close, the vacuume motors are round with a rod coming out the middle of them. Possibly, take the dash cover off check the heater control mechanism, check that the actuator cable and vacuume lines are hooked up.

Always best to not pick up the ex unless you want amazing sex :brows: then willing to pay the consequences later :doh: I finally decided that the :brows: wasnt worth the :doh: so I kept . :MJ 1: .

Rob, I take that back...knowing the stuff you got, I bet you probably could....

Top that Rob....

91 XJ housing is HO 87 MJ housing is Renix....probably two different animals. Use one to fix the other, maybe, can't say it will or won't, never tried.

Doesn't have come with buckets to mount buckets. The MJ floor brackets are what you mount to, bench and buckets are the same.

Not by any means actual rpm or speed values.

I think progressive when I shift, just like I used to do on an 18 wheeler, Each gear you go a little higher rpm before you shift. So 1-2 +/- 5 2-3 12 3-4 30 4-5 50 these are just examples of how progressive shifting works. Or you could say 1-2 900 rpm 2-3 1300 rpm 3-4 1900 rpm you get the idea....progressive.

Mine makes me bleed $$$$$$$$$

There is a little arm that the end of the cable fits into. If you pull that arm, the pedal should come back up. If it don't come back up, the return spring is missing or damaged. Be careful trying to release the arm, it could release with the force of the spring and cause injury. If the mechanism is fubared, I have a mechanism with release cable that I'd sell for $50 + shipping.

First gear gets the truck rolling period. If I can get away with a California stop, very very nearly stopped, but still rolling just a little bit, I use 2nd to go. Probably 100 to 200 rpm 4.0 pulls right of the basement and goes....