dasbulliwagen

O2 sensor could cause this too if its bad. My 2.5 would act like that sometimes while accelerating. I tried several things with the fuel system hoping to get it to go away, finally put a new O2 sensor in it just because, and as soon as I took it out on the street, it smoothed out and has been running great ever since. But like the other posters said, check the EGR valve for proper operation and closing ( it would cause a vacuum leak if it didnt close all the way), Vacuum lines, fuel pressure, fuel filter, check that the intake manifold bolts are tight... My 258 I had in My Grand Wagoneer would do this, tightening them regularly would keep things working properly. But I don't think the 4.0's had much of a problem with this. Good luck!

How many people or even mechanics EVER see serial numbers of engines or tires to be able to register them so they can be taxed??? Especially in rust belt states!!! I'm not even sure California is that strict, but then again i could be wrong. I do know that when I was into VW's there was a big to do in California about air cooled VW engine blocks and what ones could be used for certain years as a replacement block as required to keep emissions regulations straight. The Blocks themselves had nothing to do with emissions, and I think they fought and won the right to use blocks not from their year of manufacture, and the allowed use of non numbered replacement blocks being manufactured in South America for replacement purposes. I know it doesnt apply specifically to Jeeps, but just goes to show that the system can be fought and changed. And remember what is behind all this..... The Director of REVENUE!!! Its all a money racket. Nothing more.

If its an 86, theres no way it would have a 44, if it were metric tonne, it would have the even rarer M20..... 86 only!

A general rule of thumb for oil pressure is 10 psi per thousand RPM, and 20 psi at 1800 rpm is within that spec.... especially for hot oil at driving speed. What type of oil filter are you using too. That has been known to cause issues with the 4.0L's especially if its a Fram oil filter. Some filters just restrict pressure too much. Get a WIX or K+N, or just something other than what youve been using and see what happens.

At my state inspection renewal class tonight at the Community college, and while on break, went into the shop to look around. On a lift is a nice 86 Comanche X being rebuilt. No plate on it but looks like the 2.8 motor is about done, and tranny ready to go back in. Black with a burgundy bucket seat interior, 5 speed, dana 30/35, Np207. Couldnt get the VIN, but left a card on what I could reach of the steering wheel cover. Then I look around and on a table is a type 1 VW dual port motor, ready to be torn down! SWEET! Ill be back here again wednesday, and I know the instuctors, so I think Ill have to ask about these finds and the students involved with them. Just thought Id share.

In my 87 the jack mounts behind the driver seat.... just saying.

In my opinion, the BIGGEST problem with the bars is that the tube diameter is too large for the size of the truck. If the tube size was 1/2" or 1" smaller in diam, I think it would look better that way. Though I know its not possible to change that part, so I vote off.

I like my 2 spoke, but if you don't, you can find a different wheel from a similar yeared Comanche, Cherokee, or any GM product that has the same styled column. Will bolt right on!

Some of the drop shackles for the Chebbies have several holes in them for adjustability. Id look for a set like that and then you can adjust the lift you want. Just go to www.summit.com and you should be able to find a set. I don't have the catalog in front of me otherwise Id look up the number for ya.

If you have room to clean them up, soak them with PB, and then start with a 1/2" 12 point, as half inch is slightly smaller than 13mm, then go to 12 mm 12 pt socket hammered on if the half don't work. Good luck.

get the bolts from the new one too, as old style and new style are different..... just remembered,

I think maybe a sunday night might work best. Everyone is home (sober), getting ready for the new work week. Just my 2 cents.

I don't think theres a demand, just one of those things that no one makes, and if you need one you won't find one, kind of thing. Just be good to have extras just in case.

I found this thread on Naxja, not comanche specific, but has a lot of ideas for MJ/ XJ upgrades and swaps from junkyards. It has 26 pages with a lot of fluff to sift through, but a lot of good ideas. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66012

Yes, just make sure you get all the PCV tubing and grommets to tie correctly into your existing airbox.

:agree: Get both, start with the self etching, and then top coat as many times as needed with the sandable. The etching primer has a kinda acid based thinner that allows the primer to bite into bare metal better. Most body shops if starting with bare metal, will put a coat of etching primer down first before the sanding primer.

My 87 4cyl 4 speed 2wd (When I got it, currently adding 4wd and 5 speed) shows 345,000 on the clock... previous owner said he replace engine and trans at 140,000, so Ive got over 200,000 on a rebuilt Jasper engine. After talking to the previous owner, it probably didnt need a new engine, just new oil seals. He asked me recently about replacing the engine in his 2000 XJ with just over 100,000 on it because it was leaking!!! So Yeah the 2.5 is GOOD!

:hateputers:

My thoughts with using the chevy injector is that the computer would tune down the injector to the point that it gets the correct mixture... thats the way it does it with the one injector by reading the O2 sensor. If the 02 sensor says its rich, then it turns down the pulse width modulation of the injectors allowing less fuel through till it gets the correct mixture, and fine tunes it from there depending upon speed and load on the engine.It wouldnt be like two regular injectors putting in their normal amounts at idle causing it to be super rich. Makes sense to me at least. Then when you put your foot in it, it richens up quicker, and can handle mixture better at higher RPMs.

Look for Chevy truck lowering shackles from like 88-98. Put on a Comanche it will raise it. I just modified a stock set of them for my truck, but have yet to install them, but the ones you buy are fairly cheap, and will bolt right on.

I can't comment on the feasability of the Dakota tank, but noticed yesterday, while working on a Liberty, that its tank appears to be a similar size to a shortbed Comanche, and its poly. I took measurements for future reference. It is about 34" long, 16" wide at fill tube end, 13" wide on other end, and around 15" tall. The pump is mounted in the top. Not sure if this would be adaptable or not, but might be worth a shot. And its Jeep too!

If you look at the 2.5 intake manifold youll see that it has a passage for hot coolant to run through it to keep the manifold hot for better fuel atomization. So putting a wrap on an intake tube may not be worth the effort. Ive added the cold air intake to my 2.5, not sure I noticed much power from it, but maybe a little, can't hurt. As far as a bigger throttle body.... Ive contemplated for my future 2.5 build, getting the Clifford 2.5 intake manifold, and trying to adapt a GM 2 barrel throttle body injection, trying to keep as much of the original Comanche contol wiring as possible. I havent done much research on it yet, but at the very least the throttle position sensor appears to use the same voltage range. The fuel delivery pressure and volume would need to be looked at, and idle control would need to be figured out.... maybe re use the original idle solenoid adapted the the 2 bbl linkage? Who knows. My biggest worry would be to see if the original computer could contol two injectors and tune them down enough to keep a good idle, but richen it up fast enough to deal with increased fuel and air demand. Just some stuff to think about. Good luck.

:agree: Search around and find a shop that has a "ROAD FORCE BALANCING MACHINE" and spend the extra money to have them balance them. If there is any wear in the front end at all it can be set off by imblanced tires. Do the tires first and then start replacing front end parts if needed. Good luck.

If it is the axle disconnect that you are reffering to, you can lock it into the always on position, and forget about it.... the newer models did this anyways, so no big deal. If you do want to keep it functional, there are kits available that use a cable mechanism to move the axle disconnect assuming that an original is too expensive or unavailable. To know for sure what your problem is we really need more information. I juts hope the dealer isnt calling the transfer case an actuator..... should just be an easy fix....BUY IT!

We wish you well on a full recovery. How badly were you hurt? Everyone else OK?? How did it happen? As for insurance, assuming maybe you have full coverage? If you do, don't let them give you what they think the truck is worth. NADA Guides has a classic car price guide and shows a 1988 Comanche 6 cyl being worth between $2400 and $7600 dollars depending upon condition. I used 88 as it seems to be very common, youll have to do your own specific year. Anyways, If they lowball you, show them this site, or print it out, and try some other sites for values too, you should be able to get more than what they were going to give you, on an appeal.