dasbulliwagen

The vac lines youre looking for go through the firewall right with the heater hoses at the heater core tubes. Just follow the one to the heater control valve, and the other should lead you to the canister, and from the canister back to the manifold. I fised this on my bosses truck recently, all hoses looked fine, but still wasnt getting good vac, so I pulled all the hoses and lines out to inspect them and found a bad spot in the hard line where it goes through the rad core support. so I fixed the bad spot, and shoved the vac canister into a nice spot in the engine bay where it can be serviced easily. Good Luck.

Welcome, and don't forget to add those 92's to the registry, as there are several on here that would like to know the build dates from your door jamb. There is always someone wanting to know who has the last comanche built. Have fun here, and don't be afraid to ask ANY questions.

The clock wiring for mine was buried in behind the insrument cluster. My 87 base model spertruck had the wiring there and the fuse already in the fuse block... just wasnt ever used till I put one in, though the wiring for the older style has 5 wires in a 6 pin connector. Looks like you have it figured out though. Good Luck.

It has happened to me a few times before, but it seems rare that it does that. There is no rhyme nor reason as to when or why it happens.

That truck looks familiar! Just like my future project truck! There are many upgrades and mods you can get from cherokees. I added power windows, locks, mirrors, antenna to my white 87 from an 86 wagoneer. I also did the wagoneer grille, if you like that sort of thing, and the lace wheels from a limited, you can upgrade a bunch of things in the driveline.... if your 86 is like mine, then you might want to upgrade the 2.8 V6 to a 3.1 or a 3.4 from a camaro... its bolt in! I have another 86 wagoneer donor that I plan to use to fix mine up with auto trans, and full time tranfer case. Just search and peruse the forum, and the projects section, and youll get all kinds of ideas for your truck. Keep us posted, and good luck!

I think the Weber you don't want to buy is going to be your best bet. It is proven, and when you buy it, it will be jetted for that application. Gettin a junkyard carb is going to be a trial and error, and maybe end up costing as much as a weber would in the end. Thats if you can even find a carb in a junkyard anymore! And if you really want to spend some money, you could get a 4bbl intake and mount a holley 390cfm 4 bbl carb! But I think you made it clear, thats not what youre after.... just saying! Just get the Weber kit, you won't regret it.

Ive read good reviews on the herculiner and plan to use it myself when the time comes. I know that it also comes in white, and I think maybe another color or two, but I can't remember. I plan to get the white to do the bed on my white MJ. The product info says the colored ones don't need the UV protection like the black does, so that might be something to think about when getting yours. Good luck!

I can't say for sure that this is your problem, but some headers make noise like that in normal operation, it is like a pinging of the tube from the gasses hitting it coming out of the exhaust port. Or could be the header exhaust flange to the head is not straight and not tightening down to the head fully.... Youd have to pull it apart again to know if that was the case. Ive also heard of one header port having casting flash or something causing it to not seal properly. Good luck.

Mine is like that too, but I never noticed it till I put in the 4x4 springs and front axle. I added an extra isolator pad on each side when I did this, and have been thinking about pulling the passenger side one out to see if it would level it out, but like the others said, it drives fine otherwise. Just a thought too... the track bar mounts on the driver side, if it has any tension on it at all, it will pull the driver side low too.

That's odd. When I did my lift (3") I used the WJ LCAs, and all it required for shims was one 4mm shim on each side to correct my caster from 4.5* to 7.0*. Did you use the thick 4.0mm shims or the thin .95mm shims? I ordered 6 of the thin shims, and two of the thick shims, but when I went to open the package of shims at the time of my alignment, I found I had only thin shims, .95mm seems thick to me though, I'm not sure the shims I got were that thick, though I could be wrong. There were at least 3-4 shims in there to begin with too, so I added 4 thin shims and One peice of 3/16" steel plate on each side to get what I got. I have a set of WJ control arms sitting here, but I know the vehicle I took them off of was a little abused in the mud pits at Uharrie state park in North Carolina, so I'm a little worried about their condition. But with it the way it is now at 6 degrees, and driving without DW, I think Ill be happy for a while!

Another problem with this swap will be that the TJ pump is set up for MPI, and your MJ is TBI. The pressure from the TJ pump will be way too much for the throttle body injector to work properly. At minimum youll need a high pressure fuel pressure regulator to dial back the pressure to TBI specs, either that or rig a TBI pump onto the TJ fuel pump module, which might be more work than its worth. DO your homework. A tank from a 4cyl TBI XJ mounted in the bed might be a better option. Good luck.

BRAKES??? WE DON' NEED NO STINKIN' BRAKES!!!!!!

I did an alignment this weekend, and knew that my caster was not where I wanted it to be, it was just over 4 to start with. I bought 8 new OEM caster shims, and installed them, and they didnt even put me to 5, so I cut a couple peices of steel and put in the shim area, and they got me to just over 6 degrees. I seem to remember something a while back saying that WJ lower control arms were ever so slightly longer than stock lower control arms. Am I correct in remembering it that way? A search turned up nothing but references to swapping them in and the mod to make them fit in place, so I'm just asking if I am remembering right. If so, that would help me get closer to the OEM recommended 7.5 degree caster angle. I know 6 isnt bad, and I may just leave it at that, but I would like it be right if I can. Thanks!

I'm here

If you plan to stay 2wd, get some 2wd WJ Grand Cherokee knuckes,(though I think they are the same part as the 4wd) and install the proper unit bearings, and redrill the rotors for the proper bolt pattern as is shown in the attached link. There is ongoing debate in this thread wheather or not a spacer is needed, but if you stay 2wd, it will not be an issue for you. Youll have bigger better brakes, and they say with some very minor clearancing your 15 inch rims will still work. I have subscribed to this thread because I have a set of WJ knuckles sitting waiting for a new home on my MJ. Also, I think the original XJ steering can still be used even though the WJ knuckle has a spot for high steer hookup. New steering rods would have be be bought or made to run a WJ style steering. Good luck. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1047410

I installed my newly modified rear spring shackels to raise the rear to match the front with the 4x4 spring and extra isolator. I had a buddy of mine give me a pair of stock Chevy shackles (which are the same size as stock MJ shackles but heavier made) and welded metal on them to make them longer and drilled them to get me between 1 and 1 1/2 inches of rear lift. I then installed the last piece of my new autozone steering ends, and found that my stabilizers axles side bushing was wallowed out.... I didnt want to buy a new one, as this one seems to work fine pushing in and out, so I sleeved the bushing with a metal sleeve like a shock might have and reinstalled it. Then I put the whole thing on the alignment rack so I could install my new OEM caster shims of which I bought 8, thinking that would be more than enough. So all set up on the rack, installed shims, and it only helps the caster a tiny bit. Initial meausrement was just over 4 degrees, the shims didnt even get it to 5, so I cut a couple strips of the metal I used for the shackels, and hammered them in there, and got it to just over 6 degrees, it looks like I moved the lower control arms forward almost 1/2 ". I'm not sure theres enough adjustment there to get me to the factory spec of 7.5 degrees, but from what Ive read on here with lifted truck, 6 should be just fine. My steering wheel is perfectly centered, and it drove fine. Went through an area that usually gives me DW, and it didnt happen today!!! I had my camera with me today, but didnt get around to taking any pics. As it was I worked on it 4 hours and didnt even realize I was there that long! Ill try to get pics tommorow, as I really need to update my build thread too. So keep an eye out for updates to project "Comanche Limited"!

Compressor and clutch seizure is fairly common for the minvans, but I wasnt sure that the problem went back that far....... More reaseach finds it is in the next gen RS model minivans ( your is an NS but they use the same engines therefore probably same compressors? ) The ones Ive seen have had the compressor and clutch lock up, causing a breakaway plate in the compressor clutch to break and melt away causing a huge amount of smoke till enough has burned away to give clearance for normal pulley operation without belt breakage. We replace the comporessor, the receiver dryer, and suction and discharge line from compressor when we see this come in. See the TSB below: THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES SERVICE BULLETIN 24-005-03, DATED JUNE 20, 2003, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES. ALL REVISIONS ARE HIGHLIGHTED WITH **ASTERISKS** AND INCLUDES CORRECTED PART NUMBERS ON PAGES 10 AND 11. SUBJECT: A/C Compressor Failure OVERVIEW: This bulletin involves replacing the A/C compressor, related lines, inspecting the receiver/drier, and checking the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to ensure the appropriate level software is installed. NOTE: THE A/C COMPRESSOR WARRANTY PERIOD HAS BEEN EXTENDED TO 7 YEARS OR 70,000 MILES. REFER TO WARRANTY BULLETIN D-03-12 FOR COMPLETE DETAILS. MODELS: 2001 - 2003 (RS) Town & Country/Caravan/Voyager 2001 - 2003 (RG) Chrysler Voyager (International Markets) NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO RS VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 3.3L OR 3.8L ENGINE (SALES CODE EGA, EGH, OR EGM) AND A SINGLE A/C SYSTEM (SALES CODE HAA OR HAD) BUILT ON OR BEFORE FEBRUARY 23, 2003 (MDH 0223XX) OR A DUAL A/C SYSTEM (SALES CODE HBB) BUILT ON OR BEFORE APRIL 1, 2003 (MDH 0401XX) AND RG VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 3.3L ENGINE (SALES CODE EGA) AND A SINGLE A/C SYSTEM (SALES CODE HAA, HAD, OR HAJ) BUILT ON OR BEFORE APRIL 7, 2003 (MDH 0407XX) OR A DUAL A/C SYSTEM (SALES CODE HAH) BUILT ON OR BEFORE MAY 27, 2003 (MDH 0527XX). SYMPTOM/CONDITION: Vehicle operator may describe that the A/C system is inoperative. Technician may find the A/C compressor has failed due to lack of lubrication. DIAGNOSIS: If the A/C compressor fails due to lack of lubrication, perform the Repair Procedure.

Being a current Chrysler Jeep dealer tech, we see very few issues with the 4.7.... and it sounds awesome with a flowmaster! They have been pretty reliable so far in my eyes, and have good power, especially in the WJ platform. They are compareable to the hemis in the WK's.... though I think the 4.7 was also available at the same time in the WK models, there was not a lot of power difference, at least not enough diff for 95% of people to know the difference.

That truck has been posted before for it outrageous price, but I don't remember it being THAT high. That guy is NUTZ if he thinks they are EVER going to see anything close to that price for it. Nice truck, but its not THAT nice!

Hes actually a 40 something (I think) back to school, hes had the truck for several years and is on a TINY budget. I asked him about the 3.4 option, but he didnt seem to think he could afford that route, so he did what he could do. Hes got a kid getting ready to drive, and is need of another vehicle so the kid will take his XJ, and he'll drrive the MJ.

I think if I were doing it, I might try for a smoothed and painted to match original MJ rear flare, probably your best option.

Went back to second night of inspection class tonight, and saw the owner of the Comanche and spoke with him. He said he had checked us out and does have plans to join and start a build thread. He also had the rebuilt 2.8 ready to fire up! I wish him luck and hope he finds this place to his pleasure.

I have done little to nothing to the MJ lately, but I need to, because I'm starting to get an itch to get back into air cooled VW's, and I just can't do that right now, so I guess Id better get busy, and finish my rear shackles, my front end alignment, finish my trailer hitch build, start my bodywork so I can paint the rockers, polish the rest of the truck so I can add the stripe tape I want to put on to cover the holes left over from the wagoneer trim parts that were removed, and find some white Herculiner to do the bed next year. And I have that wagoneer parts vehicle I need to figure out what I'm going to do with, and a spare 2.5 at my parents house in michigan that needs to come back to North carolina so I can start a rebuild on it to have it in case anything happens to my current one---- Knock on wood!

Not directly. The distance from the edge of the wheel well to bumper end would have to be measured to see if it would even be the same distance... if not the bumper end cap/ rear lower rocker would either need lengthened or shortened, not sure which as Ive never measured. Also, the whole lower bed edge may need to be cut off to make room for the bumper end cap. And then youd also have to make adapter brackets to mount the bumper to begin with.... I made my own brackets to mount a 96 XJ bumper on the back of my 87 MJ... Just look for "Comanche Limited" in the projects section to see pics. I still havent figured out a permanent way to mount the plate, but I think a front plate bracket will bolt to the bottom of the rear bumper as a place for a plate and then run a pair of LED lighted bolts for a plate light.... I have done that, but have yet to update my build thread and pics (The bolt lights thats is). If you do it it will be a lot of work to make it look right, but might be worth it if youve done the front conversion already. Good luck. Edit.... the rear flares will definitely have to be modified as the opening arch on the Mj is much larger than an XJ.

Looks like it fits nice, who cares what it came from! :thumbsup: