FrankTheDog

Damn, you found it! I've been saving up to buy some more of that trove. I already bought the NOS bumper assembly. All the parts for an install on a truck with no bumper previously.

For Gods sake, don't drill holes in your roof to mount lights. That is about as hack as you can get. If you need lights, get a Thule roof rack and mount them on there. Or on a factory roll bar.

Hit the pawn shops and pick up good quality used tools.

Go gentle on the accelerator. The difference between me driving like I like to and driving like there is an egg on the pedal is at least 3 mpg.

Any 87-01 with a manual. In order of desirability 95 1/2 - 99 (bigger u joints, non disconnect) Any 92-95 with abs brakes. (big ujoints,non disconnect) 87-91 disconnect .

Even if you are not gifted mechanically they are a good first vehicle. Ease of working on (at least for me) would be 91-92 1st, 87-90 2nd and 86 3rd. If you buy one, get the service manual for that year if you can. It'll make your life easier. If you are going to pay somebody to work on it :fool: buy something else. But don't ask me what because I've been driving XJ's, ZJ's and MJ's exclusively for 12 years now. I know enough about ZJ's to stay away from them unless they have a stick.

Definitely late 50's early 60's. It has the fins on the back just like the Cadillacs.

Amazing what regular oil changes will do.

Don't part that XJ out! I know they made lots of them but that one is way to clean to part. Around here that's at least a $3500 sale. A body that clean will go for at least a $1000 with out a drivetrain. It would be a shame to cut that up. :no:

Care to reveal where you find all those running XJ's for less then $500? I have been looking for almost two months for a complete donor and most are about 2k. In CT and the rest of the northeast they dump salt on the roads which rots out vehicles like crazy. Also people have wrecks and they don't always bring them to the wreckers, the rigs are out there but you'll rarely get all the parts you need from one rig. Also, I said running condition, not nice condition. If you want a complete XJ that'll have all the parts you need I expect that you'll spend over $1500 easy. I buy them mostly for clean drivetrains and I don't worry about body panels.

For what it costs in parts you'll be better off just picking up an ax15 with external slave and swapping it in. Check your local off road forums and keep your eye on craigslist for parts rigs for cheap. I'm buying complete running XJ's for less than $500 with working transmissions.

The clip is decent, hood and grill are in good shape, the fenders I'm not to sure. I haven't looked to close at them. The rig is at my daughters so I'll have to drive up to take a closer look at it. PM me your email address and I'll send you some current pictures.

It's in an 87 XJ Wagoneer, looks like we are not going to part it out. We'll be selling it complete for $600. It is registered and on the road at the moment.

I have one in Connecticut with approximately 138k on it. It has an AW4 behind it. Out of an 87. $250

Two wheel drive or four wheel drive?

Just get an AX15 out of a 94 through 99 XJ that was in a wreck. As long as the drivetrain wasn't jammed up.

Picked it up yesterday, 4 cylinder 5 speed, 2wd shortbed. Bucket seats :banana: Keeping the bed, seats, rear slider, cutting out the rockers and parting out the cab. It was hit pretty good on the drivers side front frame rail. The front part of the frame is toast. Drivetrain is good, was running up until it was wrecked.

Have you ever sat in those type of seats for any length of time? They suck. Convert your bench brackets or buy a set of bucket brackets and put a stock type seat in. Unless you're going to destroy the truck mudbogging, then go ahead the crappy seats.

Wow, I must be strange. Every time I pump gas I always watch the pump at the 10 gallon point to see that they match. I've been doing it since I started driving in 1980. They have always matched. Also, I set my trip meter when I fill up and I calculate how much it should take using the MPG from the last tank full. It has always been within a gallon of what it took to fill. It only takes a few seconds to figure it if you do it every time you fill up.

ZJ's came with a 220hp or so V8. They had an aluminum Dana 44. If your going to drift your MJ it might be a good swap. The 2jz has 220 hp at close to 6,000 rpm and torque peak at around 4,500 which means no low end. For all that work and marginal results it's not worth it. If you want power drop a 5.3 LS motor in it. 300hp, lighter a heck of a lot more parts laying around in yards. Read up on it on Novak Adapters web site.

The tricky part of using XJ rockers looks like tieing the rocker into the cab corner. Which it looks like I'll be doing. Those rockers aren't as clean as the two XJ's I'm parting out so I'll stick with what I have.

Also, please show more detailed pics of rust and the back side of the pieces.

Just what I need to fix the rockers on my 92. Let me know when you figure out a price. I'll go $100 plus shipping.

I run strictly castrol gtx or Mobil 1 10w-30. All my engines are very high miles. 200k plus with one at 370k all original. I change the filters at somewhere between 4k and 7k whenever I have the time. Filters have been a mixture of Fram, Wix and Motorcraft. I haven't been able to tell the difference between them. All my engines get more than 3k before they need a quart. A good part of that is leakage. Pressure is around 50-60 when hot. Never have used additives. I've never had an engine failure of any kind. But then most of the vehicles I buy are high mileage from original owners. If they kept it for a 150k plus, it must of been a good vehicle. Then my wife and I put 30k on a year each. This isn't rocket science, don't over think it. Try 10w-30 before you do anything else.

For $500, find one that is 4x4 auto. 91-94 will have the most usable parts without modification. 92-94 so you don't end up with a cad axle. I have picked up many XJ's for less than $500. If it's a wreck, be very careful if it is a head on or heavy straight on rear end collision. The transfer case and transmission are likely to be junk. The last one I picked up the whole motor, transmission and transfer case assembly was junk. There was no visible outside damage to the trans and Tcase. Every snap ring inside both were busted. Also try to find one that has more options like a Laredo or Country so you can get the fancy seats and trim and chrome.