FrankTheDog

Isn't that how the Cadillac Seville brakes work from the seventies? They're basically a 1/2 ton truck caliper with a lever on the back that cams the ebrakes into position. Not sure how they work exactly.

400 or so pounds on M-ton springs will make it ride nice. Keep the COG low.

Check your fuel pressure before you do anything else.

Turns out it wasn't quite the fuel pump. The Bozo that installed it (me) didn't push the feed hose from the pump fully onto the hard line and it wouldn't let it fully pressurize. Pushed it all the way on and cranked down on the hose clamp and reinstalled the pump. Now it has 33psi running and 41 with the vacuum line off the regulator. I'm going to get myself a fuel pressure gauge for diagnosing these things in the future. Oh, and momma is happy now.

Turns out its the fuel pump. Tested it and it's only making 23 psi. That's with the vacuum on and off and with the return line clamped shut.

Probably not as much as the inside of the top being red. All my hardtops were white inside. YJ,CJ and TJ. All factory.

If its a Rear Dana 44 why do you need to pull the spider gears first? Just pull the shaft out and the spiders will then be loose. Or are you doing other work in the carrier?

No codes yet. I'll try again tomorrow. That's the next thing I'm going to try.

Now it's even doing it when I first start it up.

76 and up have 2.5" wide rears.

9 terminals on 93, 7 on the 88. Different part numbers on rockauto. 88 P/N is DS220 for the Standard manufactured part. They're like $13.

I put a Rustys 3.5" XJ leaf pack in my 92 2wd long bed. I cut the eyes off the main and took the middle two leaves out of the MJ pack. Bolted them all together and used a set of Chevy drop shackles. I gained about 3.5 inches total. Half was from the Chevy shackles. What I really gained though was carrying capacity. It's much closer to a metric ton truck now than the cornflake hauler it was. I almost doubled the amount of weight it can carry comfortably. The only reason I went with them is because I had them laying around.

My wife's 92 XJ began giving us trouble a month ago. Then it just died and wouldn't start. I put in a newer battery, fuel pump, CPS and coil. I replaced the CPS because when I put a 4x4 aw4 in I didn't route the wire right and it melted. The coil I replaced because it had a huge crack in it. I diagnosed them by changing out with known good ones from my spare 92 MJ. I'm not sure the fuel pump needed changing as I changed that first. I put new fuel filters in too. Now a few weeks have gone by and now it's a little hard starting but runs well for ten or so miles but then it starts stumbling and back firing through the throttle body. I switched out the TPS and IAC with good working ones off the spare with same result. Today I swapped out the computer for one out of my 94 XJ and same result. When driving it when it first starts acting up it feels doggy between 3,000 and 4,000 rpm. Then it'll start to stumble and back fire. What do I check next?

I was not bashing the Jeep, the Jeep is ok it just isn't worth anything close to that price in my opinion. Somebody has more money than sense. But if they are happy with it and it's what they want, hey, good for them.

Why did you put such a large exhaust on it? Unless you did a lot of performance mods there is no need for an exhaust that large. I don't know if that would cause problems or not though.

I'm with you on the mopar transmissions. I've had a 94 ZJ since 2001. I bought it with 109k on it. I had the tranny rebuilt at 165k. At 250k I replaced the engine and transmission. The engine was probably ok but the replacement engine and transmission I had had only 166k on it and was excessively maintained. When I cleaned out the Jeep to give to my mother in law I found that the original transmission was replaced at 90k. In 280k that ZJ had 4 transmissions in it. The 96 XJ I have has 255k on it on the original transmission and it still works great. I've had several original AW4's now with over 250k with no troubles. I like the Grands but I wouldn't buy another one unless it was a stick or an early 93 with an AW4.

How much was the yukon spider kit. I have a stock 92 D35 in good shape sitting on the floor with broken spiders. I'd like to be able to throw it in while I change the gears in my D44 over to 4.10's.

Also has a shackle lift with 2" springs. Its a 90 so it's a carbed 4.2. Internal slave AX15. No rollbar. The only good thing about it is maybe it only has 28k on it and a beautiful paint job. You can buy a decent top and bulkhead for under a grand. That's a $8,000 dollar Jeep at best, but only if they threw in some 4.10 axles from a four banger. With 3.07's that thing would really suck.

Also 6 cylinders from 91 are 23 spline. 4 cylinders are 21 spline.

For swapping parts you can use car-part.com There is no call out for auto or manual for 97-01 Cherokees. So it'll work.

If you can, find an Imperial-Eastman flaring tool setup. Even just the clamp part will do. The one I have has the grip of death. Nothing has slipped through yet.

Steel line? For transmission line just use a brass fitting with ferrules, no need to flare.

Read the Novak LS swap guide on their web site. It really shouldn't matter what year you use as the only wiring you'll be using is a couple of the original engine management like keyed hot wire and starter signal. Headlights and such aren't in with the engine harness. Start with the cleanest shell you can find.

It's also in the CC for sale section.

Don't fix what ain't broke doesn't mean not doing preventive maintanence. A cracked belt is worn out= broke. I meant don't change parts just for the sake of changing parts. Only replace the parts that are wore. Which will be most anything made of rubber. Check your harmonic balancer, the rubber in them come unlaminated too with age. Do what you are doing, clean and evaluate how wore a part is. If you fire the parts cannon at it you'll spend a lot of money and end up with out enough when something unexpected breaks.