FrankTheDog

How do you start it with out a transmission? That's what the starter bolts to. Also no tranny no pop start.

The only difference may be in the match up of the torque convertor to the back of the crank. I don't know if there is a difference in the autos but I do know that there is one in the manuals so those are the years I stick to with the autos because I know that they'll work.

Saskatoon summer=Los Angeles winter. LoL

84-89 Dana 35's are non c-clip with tapered roller bearings and 10" brakes. 90-92 are C-clip axles with non tapered roller bearings and 9" brakes.

I have the 235/75/15 Wranglers that Eagle is talking about. They're working great for tires that were $400 out the door balanced. I've had SR/A's also and they seemed fine. Especially if you're only running pavement in SoCal.

You'll want a 92-96 AW4 from a 4wd Cherokee. Those are truly plug and play. Column shift should work fine. Shifter arm on the transmission may be different and if it is be very careful taking it off as they tend to shear the shaft if you're not careful. I put a 96 AW4 into my 92 2WD Cherokee, there isn't any codes and it shifts fine. Also my ex 2WD 92 MJ is running a 96 AX15 with just the 2WD wiring and ECU with no codes. The wiring harness works fine the way it is. Speed sensor wire is long enough to hook up to the new location on the transfer case. You'll want a front driveshaft out of the same vintage but most 90-99 6 cylinder automatics should be the same. 92 and up Dana 30's are non disconnect. 96-99 will have the larger Ujoints. 00-01 are low pinion axles so don't bother with them. For the Transfer case shifter there is already a hole for it you just have to remove a plate. If you have a hard time finding decent linkage for the shifter Novak Adapt makes a cable shifter that looks pretty sweet. What's your location?

Where did you get the idea that an AX15 has a cable type clutch? AX15's are hydraulic just like the Peugot. If the clutch itself is still good you wouldn't even need to swap it out.

An 86 Dana 35 shouldn't have C-clips. It should have tapered roller bearings similar to a Dana 44 for wheel bearings. It's still a 27 spline axle though so don't go hammering on it. A LocRite or Aussie locker will give you a lot more traction in 2WD.

Probably a YJ housing. See how a YJ track bar is mounted to the axle and see if you can adapt it. I wouldn't go cutting it up just yet. The track bar looks to be the only thing that might be an issue.

00-01 will have the two piece cast iron exhaust manifold. If the body is in good shape buy it and put a good junkyard motor in it and have yourself a nice vehicle for under a grand. An engine swap is fairly simple to do. Don't chop it up unless you have the skill and time to do it right or you'll be out two vehicles. Look at all the 97-01 conversion write ups before you tackle it.

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Go to Cruisers site and get an education on what you need before you go to the pick n pull. It will answer most questions you'll ever have also.

The 84-91 axles are close to the same width. Fronts are 61" and the rears are 59". Yes, the ring and pinions are the same. Carrier break is 3.73 and down 3.92 and up.

Google 53002901 and you can find them as "cheap" as $276. I didn't go past the first page.

Looks like a 60 degree V6.

Looking at the motor it's either been replaced or just the valve cover has been replaced. Steel valve covers came out in 96.

The two issues that will affect the swap are pilot bushing and transfer case output shaft. The transfer case output is longer and a different style on the 96 and up transfer cases. This will affect your driveshaft length. Pilot bushing is just installing a different bushing. 73 CJ with a V8 I believe.

Which drive train do you have?

The track bar bracket is on the opposite side of the axle than what yours is. Right hand drive has the steering box opposite of where yours is so linkages are mirror image.

I used to work up the street from that place. It's at 333 Cooke St, Plainville CT.

If it's rust free and straight I'd take the 92 over the other even if it had 200k on it. I'm on my 4th HO that has made it to 300k with no engine trouble whatsoever. With the 92 all the 4x4 stuff from 92 to 01 to 06 (TJ) will bolt up.

Depending on the back spacing your wheels are going to stick out 4-5 inches more than stock. You're going to blast your nice paint job all to hell and crunch your sheet metal on every bump while turning. Please do some measuring before pulling the trigger on those wheels.

An AW4 driveshaft will fit with an ax15 but the slip will be all the way in leaving no room to move. Not recommended.

I run Mobil 1 10w30 in my AX15. I imagine it will work just fine in the ax5. It's been in there for 50,000 miles and it works good as new.

Suck what fluid is in there out and put in new power steering fluid not ATF. Start the engine and just let it idle until the whine goes mostly away. When the whine is mostly gone drive it normally with out sawing back and forth on the wheel. I just replaced the lines my truck last week and that is how I did it. My local mechanic told me that's how he does it and it seemed to work very well for me. Start there and then if it gives you trouble dig deeper.