Pete M

I'm so confused by this statement. :hmm: gas shocks are indeed better shocks and will generally have a better ride. the control arm length will affect steering and where your tire is in the wheelwell, but getting control arms that are 1/4" or 1/2" longer than stock (meaning they would be correct for a small lift) is not going to change the ride in any significant way. It's all about the angle of the arms. The steeper the angle, the more you will feel bumps.

Since when? The FSM for a Renix-Era XJ lists the standard temperature as 192-198*F. that's the first I've ever heard those numbers. heck, not one of my 4.0 MJs (3 of them including the one I sold) has had an e-fan that kicks in before around 220.

210 is the normal operating temp for a renix era 4.0L. and it's perfectly typical for it to fluctuate up to 220. Different engines will have different requirements for the upper temp limit for the parts inside. :thumbsup:

The higher the temperature, the more efficient the engine can burn. the big advantage of the closed systems. you can run a higher operating temp. lots of makes and models have used it. My neighbors Caddy had a closed system. I kept my closed system but did get a late model radiator (wth the built in rad cap for easy filling) when the old one went south.

nicer ride? how would they do that? I guess rubber bushings would be nicer than the more modern replacements. but ride is not generally dictated by the control arms themselves, but rather the angle of said arms, the spring rate of the coils, and the price of the shocks.

wouldn't the pinion shaft be the shaft connected to the pinion gear? :dunno: ---->

on the road again. leaving Disney and heading back to GA today. :( still better than MI though. I don't have to go back to the snow til the weekend. :D

nice post. :thumbsup: we'll move that over to the DIY section later. why is the cross pin labeled as the "pinion shaft" in the 4th photo?

how was the rear lifted? Is it too high or too low?

photos would be nice

late model shafts with some 297 U-joints would be on my list if I was adding in a front locker. :thumbsup:

all 3 of my MJs that have motors have over 200k each. In fact, 200k seems to be an easy threshhold for a 2.5/4.0 to reach. you really need some serious neglect or abuse to not get one that far. :D 300k is a little harder. not because the engine can't do it, but because the truck itself seems to be cast aside from some other calamity before then.

car-part.com can help finding junkyard parts :thumbsup:

got any pictures?

I didn't see mention of what rear axle you have. Do NOT spend any cash on upgrading a Dana 35. Find a worthwhile axle (44,8.8,8.25) and invest you money into something that will last. :thumbsup:

someone has certainly been spoiled by living in a rust-free zone... :rotf:

what, they aren't stackable? :dunno: glad to hear he's ok though. :cheers:

a quality 3" lift will perform much nicer on the road and still work wonders offroad. :thumbsup:

lift blocks in an SUA configuration will lower your truck, not raise it. :thumbsup: blocks were never in the cards. given any thought to a 3" lift with full lift packs? got a budget for everything yet? also, how much freeway travel will the truck be doing?

how much lift do you think I will have with a soa and stock sb 89 4x4 leafs? 5-6.5 inches depending on the condition of the leafs and the perch used. follow up question, why are you contemplating that much lift?

what year is the MJ? what drivetrain did it have previously?

one of the best things about being a human being is empathy and the willingness to help out those in need. apparently Rick's inlaws haven't quite developed that trait. :(

that's a lot of lift for only 31s. sure you need that much?

less than an hour! I'm jealous! :yes: although I'm not envious of the summer weather. :ack:

hopefully you can get away with just cleaning up the insides of the connector. :thumbsup: Mine was horrific so I ditched it and spliced in an aftermarket connector.