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Pete M

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Everything posted by Pete M

  1. your truck can be converted to 4wd with minimal hassle.
  2. soa will give 5-6 inches depending. a completely stock MJ can run 31s with minimal hassle.
  3. "high idle temp switch"? :dunno: is that an HO thing?
  4. just remove the whole thing. it's pretty pointless and doesn't affect anything after you pull the airbox out. :thumbsup: all will become clear as you tear into the project.
  5. I used grade-8 allen head (socket head) bolts from the hardware store. :thumbsup:
  6. I never expect an impact to work. breaker bar with a 4 foot cheater pipe on it. snap that stud off. :)
  7. why are you stripping it clean?
  8. back in school I played all the brass instruments, from trumpet to tuba. at one point I was into guitar, but that went away after I shook hands with the table saw and messed up the fingertips on my left hand. at one point tried to switch over to left handed, but never really gave it enough effort (it's an insanely weird experience).
  9. :rotfl2: I bought the el' cheapo version from harbor freight since it does U-joints too. I've found other uses for it too.
  10. shouldn't if you run stock rims.
  11. I made my own. they go through the frame and are welded to plates on both sides.
  12. ujoints are notorious for not liking changes in their operating angles. assuming there isn't any obvious looseness in the driveshaft, I would get new ones. :thumbsup:
  13. out of curiosity, why do any of those lights need to work? state inspections? I assume you replaced the oil pressure switch with the proper sending unit?
  14. I would bleed the system before anything else. and while you're under there, look for a leak so you know what needs replacing. :thumbsup:
  15. if it makes ya feel any better, I rushed to get my rocker guards and t-case skidplate fabbed up before the big Moab trip... and then they didn't touch a thing in Moab. :dunno: but different trails have different obstacles I guess.
  16. custom. love it. it's indestructible. :D
  17. What track bar bracket do you have? what sort of track bar do you have now? pictures?
  18. what axles/trans/etc are you intending to use?
  19. this particular issue is troubling to me. I changed the page, saved the page, and nothing changed on the page. :fs1:
  20. sigh... I gotta try again to get rid of that webring thing. :(
  21. how long before the gauge pegged? did you try my bleeding procedure?
  22. stock arms? or do you mean short arms? (as opposed to long arms) the stock MJ lower control arms really only work at 0-2". 3" is really pushing it but it has been done (especially if you adjust the shims in the lower control arm body mount). personally I'll never use stock MJ arms on anything again given a choice. WJ arms ftw! (same length of MJ arms, but stronger and with a curve for tire clearance) going soa is only cheap for the rear. getting the front to match properly and safely is pretty expensive.
  23. yup, frames are quite different and made of sheetmetal so cutting and pasting is more involved. besides, there's only a 6" difference in wheelbase between the lb and sb, so you'd be doing a whole lot of fabrication for very little gain. I would bob the longbed, fab a high clearance rear bumper, then add rocker guards and a heavy duty skidplate and go have fun.
  24. depending on the current ratio, now's a great time to upgrade both axles with ones from a late model XJ and get stronger parts and better gearing all around. :thumbsup:
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