Pete M

that too. :doh: basically get anything that touches the trans (including the t-case if possible). :D

either way, be sure to get all the guts. :thumbsup:

the bellhousings are not interchangeable. :thumbsup: try to get a bellhousing from a 95+ AX-15 to get the external slave. don't forget that you'll need all the guts to that bellhousing, not just the housing.

I'm out of state at the moment, but he assures me he'll call once he's found someone that has them in stock. :dunno:

very nice! :clapping: I assume you're going to insulate?

post 89 2.5ls still had 21 spline inputs on their t-cases. though I remember hearing of some spline length issues on certain years. :dunno:

I wouldn't use heat if I wanted to re-use that bearing.

yeah. the impact of my weight on the end of a 3 foot bar. :yes:

yup, I use a 1/2" breaker bar and a pipe extension. :thumbsup: and for when you're trying to get the hub off:

It probably did screw on. just not off. :yes: and for the record, I'm half your age and I'm to old for that kind of prank on do-it-yourselfers. :fs1:

not my van. its pulley is made of plastic. it just breaks when the puller is used. :(

How to break into almost any vehicle: buy a pack of quality wooden shims. get hammer or rock. pry upper corner of door apart just enough to get a couple shims in. keep adding more shims until you have enough room to stick in a coat hanger a strong rubber band taped to the end of the coat hanger can grab most door locks. other rigs will need the coat hanger bent to grab the door handle. you didn't hear any of that from me. :D

I would add WJ lcas to that mix. :thumbsup: Stock MJ arms were never meant to control gigantic tires.

not really. it makes all your front end power run through a single tiny ujoint (divers side) which is not really a good thing. a selectable locker offers you locked or open, but both front tires will always be splitting the power between them.

if it's anything like the pulley on my 97 chrysler minivan, the pulley itself isn't expected to ever come back off. The new pulley pressed on to my new pump with the supplied attachment bolt.

what is it you mean by "lost"? did you have more than 53 posts total? or you've lost your bookmarks? or what?

AALs will make your leaf pack stiffer and RC shocks aren't known for being the best. that's like half a kit. I would add new U-bolts, longer brake lines, longer swaybar links, longer lower control arms, and personally I'd go with a longer track bar too. as you go higher, the geometry of the suspension changes. the front tires get pulled backwards in the wheelwell, the sway bar can rub on the coils, the front axle gets pulled to the driver side, the brake lines get pulled tight, etc. the higher you go, the worse these things get and the more parts are needed in the kit to fix them. The cheap kits out there don't address all these areas and most guys find themselves having to fix the problems after installation. Now, there's a certain amount of "your experience may differ" when it comes to lifting old trucks. Some guys don't mind the drawbacks, others have found ways around them (adding shims behind the control arms for example). It's all up to you and what you want to try. But if you want to stay cheap and still get a quality ride, I recommend avoiding "inch-itis" if you can because each inch you go higher practically doubles the cost of doing the lift correctly. :thumbsup:

I love it when a plan comes together. :D now where are those pictures?

:rotf: wrangler would have had a bit better breakover angle :dunno:

only the first couple years didn't have headrests. anything after that would work for a donor. :thumbsup:

MJ shackles are already longer than XJ shackles so verify before purchase how long they are. that's why I mentioned the Chevy ones. they are about as long as you can go with a shackle. and no, shackles aren't spacers. google "leaf spring lift blocks front" and you'll see what I mean by leaf spring spacers. :thumbsup: you won't need anything more for a budget boost other than an alignment. 2" if the limit before needing other parts.

coil spacers are perfectly safe. :thumbsup: It's the leaf spring spacers that have drawbacks (front ones especially).

it's not fun installing windows in the snow. :D

1.75 pucks up front, chevy drop shackles in the rear. about as easy/cheap as a budget lift gets. :D try to stick with Jeep rims. aftermarket rims can get 31s into the fenders when turning. 31s on Jeep rims can contact the lower control arms, but that's easily remedied with junkyard WJ LCAs.

wouldn't surprise me if it tipped 5k.