Pete M

very cool :D but rocker guards, rocker guards, rocker guards. watching that vid makes me nervous.

:rotf:

someday... someday I'll have a welder of my own... top notch work, as usual. :D

favorite misspelling so far was the double M version written in spray paint on an MJ in the junkyard. right under the badge. :D

everyone's body react different to the now missing part of the digestive system. mine is just not catching on to the change as quick as others. :dunno: on the plus side, I have lost a few pounds. :yes:

Beer and ribs,... name 2 things that I can't have right after gall bladder surgery. :doh: looks SOOOOOO good :drool: for dinner today I had fat free yogurt with fruit in it. :(

that's awesome! :banana:

I love how they call that MJ "subtle". :rotf:

Front main seal and maybe other places. Trans leaking from seal on tail shaft (again) less than 15K miles on a NOS seal I got several years ago from Don. Something must be wrong in trans. Seal should have lasted much longer. Original owner installed used engine at 98K miles, now 240K miles on truck but it does start easy and run smooth. So maybe cheaper to just get the engine oil leaks fixed properly is the way to go. Still leaves the trans leak as a problem. Stroker long block is gone from CL, asking price was $800 2001 Grand Cherokee engine still there for $450, supposedly 150K miles. replacing seals is almost always the better option. :thumbsup: especially if the engine is running nice.

wish I knew. :(

I did some rock crawling in the Libby today. It was just the gravel bits that the construction crews created for business access while they are re-doing the road, but I was in AWD. :D

we don't store photos on this site. you'll still need to upload them to another site and then link them to here. :thumbsup:

where is it losing oil?

absolutely. and if it was done is a DIY fashion, I wouldn't touch it. (unless maybe I could drive it around first)

he better have some paperwork that proves what it is. and that paperwork better have a block number on it that matches the engine. and that paperwork better also have a phone number of the place that did the work so you can call and verify with them what's what. and I think you can pop off the oil pan and check the crankshaft to check of it is from a 4.2, though I've forgotten what you'd be looking for. :( part number maybe?

:banana: double congrats!

annnnnnd now it's broken again. sorta. it is random with whether or not the key alone will start the Jeep, but I can start it every time by bypassing the starter relay with a paperclip. :yes: whatever. close enough. I'm driving it back to Michigan today and will fix it when I can later.

I absolutely love my optimas, but I acknowledge they have had some quality issues as of late. but I still highly recommend an optima-like gel battery. :thumbsup:

a worst case scenario has happened. it fixed itself. somehow. now the debate, do I trust it enough to drive all the way back to michigan without stranding me on the side of the highway? :( I'll be doing a test run into town first (gotta get the AC charged).

if anyone needs a replacement (either a whole one or just a letter) please lemme know. :thumbsup:

yes. sorry, should have mentioned that. :doh:

Did this a couple years ago and it turned out to be the little bar that goes inside the ignition switch was broken. so we started there this time. got it all apart and the little bar is still fine. tried turning the ignition switch manually and the Jeep cranked and fired! but then died a second or so later. tried again with the same result but the jeep died even quicker. a third attempt brought the same result and then nothing. no more cranking at all. So I figured it was a faulty ignition switch. replaced that today and still nothing. doesn't even try to crank. is there something else in the steering column I'm missing?

MJ tech questions should really go in the tech forum. :thumbsup:

:waving: awesome lookin' show! :drool:

it can always get better. :D