Pete M

it gains some strength points for being a 44, but then loses some for being low pinion. It's still stronger than a 30, but I don't think it's 1000 dollars stronger.

actually, that's how I drove the 90 around. the engine cranks a couple times, the engine fires up, and away you go. :D

we're quite a small group and very widely spread out so even if I could do that I'm not sure it'd work the way you envision. :(

not at the moment she isn't. replace the TB spring, replace the fuse box, reassemble the interior, etc and she could be running. it's a project that stalled and needs to be finished. I'm in 48193.

the lens IS the difference. :thumbsup: fog light lenses spread the light out in a broad, wide beam (also the lenses are frequently yellow to help cut through the fog). driving lights are more focused to push the light further down the road. this means driving lights are WAY brighter in the eyes of oncoming motorists (which is why they are allowed only with the brights on)

yeah I know. :( sorry 'bout. It's just that I've gathered all my favorite factory parts together and it's really tough to let them all go for cheap just so I can then start all over again gathering parts in GA. another guy might just strip 'm and junk 'em, but I'm trying reeeealy hard to keep my gals out of the scrap man's hands. :( the 44 is never for sale. I guess I'd like to see 500 for everything (including the np242 and driveshafts but with the 35 and original leafs reinstalled). Just make sure that the new potential owner understands how much nicer your trucks are than this one.

maybe it's just me, but after reading the last bit it would appear that we all agree that fog lights (wide pattern) are different than driving lights (narrow pattern) and one should only use the proper light for the job at hand. :dunno:

haha, nope. unless someone came and stole it. then I guess they'd get it all. . :MJ 1: . but I don't really have a need for the lightbar. :D

can't take her with me to georgia. :( She'll make a fantastic base for someone's offroader or winter beater, but not necessarily a good candidate if you're looking to restore to original glory. but you may be asking: what do you get for just a 150 bucks? -a clean Michigan title, -all the sheetmetal. is originally a Cali truck so it hasn't had as much time to rust as would a michigan native (pass floorpan has a hole, one cab corner has a hole, plenty of surface rust spots, dr door got over extended once- still works) -all the glass, -all of the drivetrain except for the rear axle (2.8L, AX-5, np-207, 4.10 dana 30) -big ton suspension -7ft cap on the bed (door hinge needs to be replaced) -bed liner also bad: -no interior -no wire harness (interior and harness were gutted before I bought it. has just enough wires to run and be street legal) -no muffler -doesn't run without gas being shot into the carb. the truck has a mechanical pump (meaning it pulls rather than pushes) and I'm pretty sure it's sucking air through a leak in a rubber line. for $250 I'll include the AMC-20 rear axle for $75 bucks I'll include some great looking Gambler rims with bald tires. or for $75 I'll throw in the MTRs on 5 rougher looking Canyons. (couple of the MTRs are a bit ratty looking. I used to have 4 good ones until someone decided to slash a hole in one ) (note that the same tire offers are in my 90's ad. first come, first serve with the choices) I can take more pics if you want them

you say that, but the 88 is coming with :yes: the reality is that it costs too much to justify transporting the 90 and 86 down and I have a rust free truck waiting in GA to become my next project.

can't take her with me to georgia. She'll make a great base for someone's offroader or winter beater. the good: -clean Michigan title, -all new hard brake lines, -95 XJ double booster installed -bucket seats -strong running 4.0 in it. (A/C but has a leak) -WJ lower control arms -56k mile Dana 44 with 3.55 gears -upgraded heavier duty leaf springs -dual exhaust -90k mile late model HP Dana 30 with 3.55 gears, good brakes -AX-15 that's been converted to external slave -NP-242 allwheel drive t-case -gas tank skidplate -five 31x10.5" MTRs on Canyons. (2 of the MTRs are a bit ratty looking. I used to have 4 good ones until some passer by decided to knife a hole in one) the bad: -crack in the windshield -fuse box suffers from exposure to a past master cylinder leak -rust issues: one rocker is bad, one door bottom is bad, frame is rusty, bed is decent, drivers floor has new sheetmetal welded in, pass floor is rusty but no holes. -throttle body return spring is broken -interior is apart -no carpet or headliner -bad shocks $650 takes it all. build thread is here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/1484-project-how-i-feel-mjs-should-have-come-from-the-factory/

I have NO faith that Jeep will even try to make us happy should they make another small truck. we are a very small niche community. The XJ community is much much bigger and look what they brought out as the new cherokee. :ack:

with some practice you can learn how to drive an MJ around without the clutch. :D

yup. or a poorly spliced in trailer harness. or even corrosion in the harness connector located right behind the drivers side rear tire. had that one happen to me. gotta track the electricity and see where it stops. :thumbsup:

sure it isn't in the "popular threads" forum inside the pub?

if the trans and t-case are currently bolted together, then the spline counts match. if they are separate, then count to confirm. only some people have had issues with the floor clearance and it's a minor issue anyway. I've got a 99 TJ trans in mine and I like the extra ground clearance. :D I didn't have to touch the floorboards. the bellhousing and all its guts are kinda important. why doesn't this new trans have one? if your truck is 4wd with a peugeot trans then the driveshafts will be spot-on the t-case shifter bracket/linkage on a YJ/TJ is different than an MJ. you'll need one from an MJ/XJ AX-15. the trans shifter is different on a YJ/TJ. you're probably going to want one from an MJ/XJ. I was able to get the TJ one to work, but it's really tall and gets reeeeally close to the dash. don't forget that you'll need a trans crossmember from an AX-15 equipped MJ/XJ

yeah, I edited it to be what I had read. :yes:

am I the only one that read that wrong? :rotf:

It's not just about money. it's about an escalation in responsibility, workload, and worry. not really interested in that. I prefer my CC as simple as possible. :yes: besides, posting photos is a skill everyone should have. :thumbsup: keep at it. once you get the hang of it, it's easy. :D

it's a photoshop. but it looks sweet :D

did you spell comanche right? :D I sent you my personal email addy. try that one.

I do wonder what would happen if he did get to 88 mph...

didn't get anything. :dunno: make sure you sent them to comancheclub@hotmail.com

plenty of us have nixed that channel (due to rampant rust) and to the best of my knowledge, no adverse effects have been found. :thumbsup:

got a couple options so far. waiting on the opinion of the guy doing the vector work as to what is usable. but feel free to snap a couple pics if you'd can. the more options, the better. :D just make sure they are squared up and level to the emblem and with no harsh shadows so all the edges are clearly visible. :thumbsup: