Pete M

every time I see those things it makes me want to sell off a real one to fund the purchase. :drool:

not only can it, the truck should continue to run off the alternator. :thumbsup:

it was a legitimate typo that went unnoticed by anyone for months. :rotf: It was so funny (I mean, of all the forum names to screw up) I just decided to leave it as is. :yes:

nice :D

sure looks like it's his to win or lose. :yes:

already sent them some. :dunno:

it's not exactly easy, but I can work on it. :thumbsup:

yes, lots of photos! :D have fun!

drywall screws are just so darn useful :D looks good!

don't forget that changes in height can necessitate a frontend alignment. :thumbsup:

theme song for the magnificent 7 :thumbsup:

you'll be much happier with the WJ arms than poly in the stock arms. :D

:rotf: yeah, 'cause you own the rest of them :D

If your truck is as rusty as mine, I'd leave the sway bar bushings (where it mounts to the body) alone. those bolts have a tendency of snapping right off. :(

WJ lower control arms will have better bushings, are a stronger arm design and should be less than that kit. :thumbsup:

I hate dealing with dealerships. :fs1:

I guess you can try. I've never had much luck trying to rebend a 20 year old hard brakeline. 2" lift is a better choice if you're really low on funds. 2" spacers and and shackles (the 2" chevy drops) and you're done. :thumbsup:

Cons: very little cab space Pros: um, everything else? :D I mean, find me another little truck with an available fuel injected 6 cylinder engine, a solid front axle and 2000 lbs payload capacity?

rear should be a 9". front will be that awful TTB d44

Careful, Pete... with great power comes great responsibility. :smart: funny you should say that... :D

need more cards?

for every inch a shackle is longer than stock, the truck will go up 1/2". so to get 3" from a shackle, it would need to be around 11" long or twice as long as a stock one, which is not a good thing. to the OP, what else are you doing to the front? you're going to want more than just pucks to get the suspension/brakelines/shocks/etc right. in the rear you can go with an 3" AAL (which, due to differences between MJs and XJs that the aftermarket doesn't seem to understand, generally lift around 2" in an MJ).

a quick (and decidedly less dirty) method is to put the trans in neutral, jack up one rear tire, and rotate it around exactly twice while counting the number of times the driveshaft rotates. if it goes around a bit over 3 and a half times, it's a 3.55. If it has a limited slip in the rear axle, then you'll need to jack up both tires and rotate them around once. If you've got no idea when the last time the gear oil was changed, then it's a great time to pull the cover and kill 2 birds with one stone. :thumbsup:

if I remember right, the lightest MJ was supposedly around 3k lbs according to the brochures.