Pete M

diesel is up over 4 bucks again...

proper prep of the surface and a good technique for application are far more important than the chosen paint. :thumbsup: those are decent paints though. :yes:

interesting thought, but I kinda doubt that most vibrations will be visible to the naked eye, let alone a camera mounted to a shaking jeep. :dunno: if you do it, let us know how well it works. :thumbsup:

just drain and refill. mixing is not an issue at all. :thumbsup:

I've had some insanely rusty MJs pass through my hands and none of them had leaks in the fuel tank.

unless it's crazy rusty or damaged, you really shouldn't need to do anything to it. :thumbsup:

just to clarify, that chart applies to the overall size of the entire cable, not the individual strands. :thumbsup:

nice :D

sure looks like a pretty cleam MJ. I gotta feeling he sold it out from under you. :( but I'd show up on his doorstep and make him tell me that to my face.

has the radio ever lost power before? my kenwood had a "secret" spot I had to push any time it lost all power. sort of a lame an anti-theft measure I guess.

actually, I'm going to replace the line first. that'll allow me to cut the old line and check for any flow through the system. might as well pretend to be scientific :D

excellent. as I happen to have a couple 88 PS pumps lying around :D I'm also going to replace the low pressure hose, just for the heck of it.

anyone know if the older and newer pumps are interchangeable? I know the bracketry and such is different, but the pumps are tantalizingly similar...

is your tank leaking?

that's pretty epic right there :D

I'm fairly certain that little plunger next to the spring in the above photo is getting jammed in there. don't know how to address it though. :dunno:

well, it works, then it stops working. this blows.

got it. had to stick a ratchet extension down the hole and tap it with a hammer, but it's all freed up. going to reassemble now and take it for a test drive. :crossfingers:

you can probably just shove a clean rag in the hole and call it good. :thumbsup: a bit of humidity won't hurt it. just run a can of gas-drier in the first tank of fuel if you've worried.

sooooooo, that middle piece. does it pop out or anything? :dunno: I see nothing down the hole, nor can I get (if the bottom of the hole is indeed the top of the middle piece) anything to move. Is this a procedure where I need to remove the pump and smash it vigorously on the pavement? also, car-part.com shows my pump interchanging with 97+ jeeps, if that means anything.

pardon my bluntness, but that's an insane amount of work to be done only to accomplish what can be easily purchased in the used car market. why exactly are you doing it this way? because it's all very custom work, it's impossible to say which tank you can use.

what you can use depends entirely on how this conversion is being done. longbed and shortbed uni-frames are pretty different under the beds.

see, to me that truck would make a great winter beater. I'd fix some of the rust, but wouldn't get too crazy with it. Then I'd continue to drive it in the snow so I could spare my other rigs from the salt exposure. that was the plan with my 90 at least.

interesting. is that something the shop manual would cover? I assume the valve is inside the pump?

the power steering in my 96 XJ feels ok except at idle. at idle it feels like it's simply not there. but if I give it even just a teensy bit of gas pedal, it instantly comes back. failing pump? I've bleed the thing repeatedly with no effect. the fluid looks clean and doesn't foam. and it doesn't sound all that bad. :dunno: I know the previous owner had a leak that was addressed by just dumping more fluid in each week (I've since replaced the leaky hose). dunno if it was ever run dry.