Pete M

only takes one incident with a curb to ruin a tire's good looks.

autozone and the like will check your starter and battery for free. anything can fail prematurely.

teamsmith, you might want to post this up in the tech forum so more people will see your questions. :thumbsup: be sure to include a link to this thread.

it is the exact same axle used under MJs (with different brackets of course) :thumbsup:

it sure sounds cool, but my experience with AWD is that it's just more weight to drag around. MJs just don't make enough power to warrant it, and any weather where you need it is weather you shouldn't be driving a nice MJ in anyway. a posi rear axle should be all you need to avoid a peg leg burnout. :thumbsup:

still my fav jeep concept. :drool: makes me want to unbolt the muffler on my CRD libby. :D

rule number one of this build: no rust. :D

when I get back to GA I want to try to get some copies of the poster made for y'all. :thumbsup:

yup, I totally intend to buy a bone-stock XJ and drive it for a bit. I need to be comfortable with the engine and trans before moving on to the fun stuff. :D I'm still a couple months from even being able to start anything so I've held off doing any window shopping. I'm driving back to Michigan this weekend and so will soon be talking with my uncle about it. need to show him all his options and see how far he wants to take it.

looks like I can upgrade an np231 to 6 planetariums and a wide chain using all junkyard parts. sweet! that means I should only need a SYE kit and a bearings kit purchased new. :D I also hope that I can get identical tom woods front and rear shafts. I've seen others do it on XJs, but can't be sure til I get it all set up and have measurements. still debating going with 1310 joints or 1350. I'll be replacing every single yoke so I have the choice of making them strong or keeping them as a fuse. maybe I can keep the ones in the CVs as 1350s and the joints out by the axles as 1310s. :dunno:

added the upper pin to my collection and got a different AL Unser jr poster. life is good. :D I always figured that an SCCA version existed in the series, but had never seen one til now. and for anyone that hasn't seen it yet, this is the other poster

Jim, you could probably use a shave.

just don't put ANY money into a dana 35. invest your cash in a better axle. :thumbsup:

made mine from 3/4" plywood and covered it with automotive carpet. now I can attach things to it like my fire extinguisher and first aid kit. :D

gears, gears, gears. especially if you have 3.55 gears (which came with the 4spd manuals)

pull out the resistor pack and take a look at it. they have a habit of rusting horribly.

yup. pair of aussies will help get you up your drive. :thumbsup: if I remember right they are under 300 each and install pretty easy.

on second thought, i think I'd do the lockers first.

I would get a SYE and a stronger rear driveshaft. (and if I was cracking open the t-case, I'd look into the 6 planetary gear set and wide chain conversions you can do from junkyard parts. not because it's absolutely necessary, but because it's immensely cool and does make the t-case stronger. :D ) then I'd get a locker for the both axles and armor for the undercarriage. having the grip of lockers means less wild tire spinning and more control.

how much budget do you have for this?

you're are correct. I must have been remembering an article on flipping a rear axle to make it a high pinion rear axle. :thumbsup:

maybe we could all work out a share program where we mail it back and forth across the country to whomever needs it :thumbsup:

yup, a very common failure point. they tend to rust out pretty bad.

well, we have this: http://comancheclub.com/topic/12163-acronyms/ but i'm guessing you're referring to the company names. most of them can be searched for by using their acronyms. :thumbsup:

that bites :(