Pete M

I don't remember ever reading such a thing for this swap. :dunno: not once.

I still don't understand. why does he need to balance the thing that's already balanced? Does he understand the 3.4 is already balanced?

not hard at all. just tape off the tire (with a million pieces of masking tape), cover the rest of the tire with a couple towels, and do all the proper prep to the rim. proper prep is key. :thumbsup:

what I would do: -paint current rims black -get 1.25" hubcentric spacers for rear -smile :D

when in doubt, take a break and change the gear oil :D

yup, those will fit fine. :thumbsup:

figured as much, but being the internet and all, you might want to add in the smiles when ya do that. otherwise someone might really think you are a jerk. :thumbsup:

You'll probably fail well, they are kinda hanging out in the breeze. :yes: I would add a flat gusset across the pairs of tabs so they look more like this: awesome build! :thumbsup:

autozone will loan you a C-clamp style balljoint/ujoint press if you want to try it yourself. :thumbsup:

I've heard nothing but good things about the MTZ. :thumbsup:

neat! :thumbsup:

I would totally rent one :D

MJ frames are already way stiffer and stronger than XJ frames. :thumbsup: MJs were designed to carry waaaay more weight.

nice! :rotfl2:

nice! I'll move this over to the DIY forum in a couple days. :thumbsup:

it's close, but doesn't touch. :thumbsup: but as I said, I have a custom crossmember (though it is a high ground clearance crossmember which in theory works against me). My inclination is to think that some people aren't using the AX-15 crossmember and the other ones would raise it up an inch or 2, but don't have proof on that yet. maybe someone else that has done the wrangler swap can comment.

I've got a 00 TJ AX-15 in my 88 and I feel the extra clocking is a good thing. :D more ground clearance! I have a custom crossmember though. whatever you do, don't use a peugeot or aw4 crossmember. either go custom or find an AX-15 one. The AX-15 has a drop in the center of it that lowers the trans a bit. for me it was the linkage that needed some customization, but I think if you get stock MJ stuff it'll work fine.

the rear fenders are bigger. it's the front that is challenging. from what I've read, 33x10.5s will make life much easier and longer bumpstops are your friends. :thumbsup:

fullsize. late 90s early 2000s for sure. maybe other years too.

allllllllrighty then. here the rough list I've got going: 96+ XJ anything the 4.0 might need (water pump, radiator, tuneup, etc) 32x10.5 tires JK Rubicon axles brakes (which oddly enough don't come on the "complete" axles) longer brakelines TNT truss. or maybe build one myself. gotta wait til I have an axle under a Jeep before I make that call. heavy duty diff cover (for the front at least) that flexy aluminum tie rod flipped drag link JK 17" rims (16s won't accommodate the tie rod) SYE 6 planetary gearset wide chain swap tom woods driveshafts with 1350 joints RE drop brackets with my own supports WJ arms fabbed bumpstop extensions longer sway bar links longer trackbar 4.5" coils (not sure which yet) Dakota leafs Bilstein shocks long throw LEDs on the roof. wide throw LEDs on the bumper little wide spot LEDs all around for general use wide throw backup LEDs switches for the lights/lockers/etc closed cell battery bigger cables Warn VR 8000lb winch bedliner for the interior floor maybe a vinyl bench in place of the buckets? gotta build: front bumper with winch and grillguard rear that wraps around and protects the lights. rocker guards frame plating roof rack hitch rack interior storage stuff yet to be determined at this point in time I've eliminated the steel fenders and cage to shave off some cash to try and meet the budget. I have a feeling they will be there eventually. spreadsheets are great tools. :D helps me keep it all together.

I will need a piston, but not for a few months. I'm in GA, the Jeep is in MI. the soonest I'll get back north is July. heck, Jim, it's entirely possible I might be visiting you before I again visit michigan. :D I tried to do a compression test beforehand, but the tester I got my hands on wouldn't work with the 4.0. the adapter was so fat that the socket that fit it wouldn't fit into the sparkplug hole. :dunno:

ya got me thinking. think I can get away with just replacing the piston? I mean, what have I got to lose? I still need to address the reason for the failure. maybe a bad injector?

If it passes a smog check, why does it need to get off the road?

damn straight! :D

I'm definitely trussing it. :yes: The rational behind the flexy aluminum is that I'm kinda building a desert racer. kinda. My uncle wants a rig that will survive contact with a rock or whatever he finds while bounding across the wyoming prairie at 40 mph. I'll never be asking it to survive repeated deflections like rock crawlers see, just the occasional "what the hell was that!" when he's miles away from help. from what I've read, there isn't room to flip the tierod up. But I will be flipping the drag link. I don't have the axles yet, so I can't verify how close it is. Rock Krawler and Carolina Metal Masters sell them. found a video: