Pete M

how do you not own this yet?

I like that thought. :D I'd use a ring of silicone around the base though.

which method did you use? what part keeps breaking? there are a few different ways to get it done. http://comancheclub.com/topic/17377-cad-fix-1/

sweetness! :bowdown:

generally I curse myself loudly and repeatedly for cheaping out and installing a minispool up front.

standard trans in 86 is the AX-5 or AX-4 (or the much rarer t-4 or t-5). BA-10 is 4.0 only. and the AX-5 won't last long behind the 3800. we had a member who installed one.

loved chatting with him. such a great guy. he will be missed. :( http://www.fourwheeler.com/news/celebrating-the-life-of-our-friend-and-fellow-wheeler-pete-trasborg-1977-2015/?adbid=10152923471661705&adbpl=fb&adbpr=55939001704&short_code=30vrr&sm_id=social_aumofourwheelerhub_default_20150520_46102676

hooray for progress! :banana: also safety. hooray for safety! I concur with the rooftop door storage idea. :thumbsup:

you're thinking of Dakota lights. http://comancheclub.com/topic/42525-dakota-tail-lights/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/46115-dakota-replacement-taillights/

baby powder can sometimes help find a leak. sprinkle it around the area and the water will make tracks through it.

could be a leaky windshield. or a leak in the firewall. or a leak at the antenna. or a dribble coming in through the gap above the door and running down the a-pillar. our trucks are quite prone to leaks. that's why our floorboards rot out so fast. :( water trapped under the carpet.

I would put a locker in the REAR first because on an incline or under acceleration that's where the weight shifts. also in my opinion, keeping it simple would mean a detroit auto locker in the rear. :thumbsup: but I would go with a selectable in the front. steering with a locked up front can sometimes be... challenging.

nice! :cheers:

and there are none available in the aftermarket

Jim, isn't your outhouse made of taillight lenses?

wow that was fast! glad she sound something she liked. :thumbsup:

for what it's worth, that weight translates into safety. :thumbsup: It's a little tank of a ride. :D we have a diesel 06 and I love that Jeep! 160k miles so far and we don't intend to ever sell, but if something awful happened to her I'd be all for getting another. :yes:

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pinionangles.shtml

I'd do cheap stuff first. bleed the clutch line and top off the gear oil. I know they're different transmissions, but my peugeot always got finicky when the oil level dropped below a certain point.

couldn't find the image I was looking for so i made my own. apologizes for the crudeness. I know there are better versions out there and will include a better one if I can find it. red is the lower control arm. black is the arc of suspension travel. arrow indicates the immediate direction of travel up once the tire first contacts a positive obstacle (meaning a rock rather than a hole). Jeep is traveling to the right. The left image is a stock suspension. note that the direction of travel is up and then back, effectively absorbing the impact with the spring. the middle is a lifted suspension. note the forward direction of travel which jolts the truck up a bit before the spring absorbs the impact. The image on the right is the same lift but using a bent arm. note that the arc and direction of travel is exactly the same as the middle image.

edit: sorry, I mistyped. I meant for better down travel, not up travel. that bend exists only to clear that lip on the lower control arm bracket on the axle as the suspension rotates down. I remember when they were first introduced. it does not change the control arm angle and does not change ride quality. If your truck rides nice, excellent! :thumbsup: but it is not due to that bend. I have an industrial engineering degree and I promise this is how the physics plays out.

Pete have you tried the bent lower arms that make the arms nearly horizontal? They work. If I had any modern technology I would Make and post a video of the ride and handling of my short arms without CAD as I drive around town and hit pot holes or go down the highway at 80 with one finger on the wheel. Although I could have better flex the truck is perfectly capable. If I had an extra grand I probably would have gone with a long arm set-up, though. I should have added that in addition to the LCA angle; the spring rate, tire load rating, tire pressure, bushing shape, shock valving, vehicle weight, and personal preference will all affect the perceived ride quality. but bent arms won't. only the straight line between mounting points counts. the arm still has to travel the same arc as it goes up, bent or straight. the bend is there for clearance and better tire up travel. :thumbsup:

yup, the closer the arms are to being parallel to the ground, the better the ride.

at least it's not a pic of you wearing one. not even the NSA wants to see that. :D