Pete M

if the width is similar to the grand waggy, then a mid 90s Isuzu rear 44 could be used to match bolt pattern. no matter what, it's still going to be low pinion front axle.

anyone?

I believe "properly welded" is the key there. how good are your welding skills with a stick buzzbox? I have neither a good welder nor a bender and so I found a local guy that had both for my rollbar. I kept my design simple (4 bends, 4 notches) and it was very affordable (I did all the prep work and built the mounts myself). you'll need a front hoop, a rear hoop and some runners. in its simplest form that's 4 bends and 6 notches. add in a couple diagonals and you're way ahead of the game. Just remember that your cage is only as good as the mounting points so give them some thought.

can you write up a small DIY thread on your victory, cataloging some of the various methods you tried and then what ultimately succeeded?

that's great news!

wasn't me! just a portion of a thread I salvaged from a member who left.

that's pretty dang cool!

copied from a lost thread (aka: not mine)

are you bleeding it properly? there's a specific method for bleeding the MJ. should be a link to the factory steps in the link in my sig

added to the master index

it's about as easy as a conversion can get. plus you can practice on the ZJ at the junkyard! https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/rear-zj-disc-brakes-cherokee-xj-chrysler-8-25-a-57807/

yup, pics and do one side at a time so you have references if needed. autozone should have brake tools in the loan a tool program.

swap in disks. and I'm not kidding. certainly not for a hundred bucks and to still have drums in the end.

can you bend tube?

bleepin' responded! and he was gracious enough to let me do all the work and link to his videos.

don't for get to consider how much driving it'll see and the local rules about lifts and tire coverage.

looks like a top loader rockwell and a lawn tractor had a baby.

there are a LOT of variables in play here. terrain, driving style, tread pattern, locked/open, truss, etc. A dana 30 is way tougher than its name implies, but it has limits. personally I wouldn't go bigger than some 33" mud terrains, but I'm a cautious person since I usually need to drive the truck home. I put a 44 in the front of my truck because I wanted more of a project than just a bolt-in 4wd conversion. and for every guy that runs giant tires on a dana 30 and doesn't have any problems, there's a guy like me.. who cracked a ford 9" case in half (we think by dropping it on a rock), so nothing is invincible.

it does stop scratching, but it isn't invincible and brings on other problems: fading, getting it clean, chunking, baking in the sunshine, trying to repair the steel if bigger damage or rust occurs, etc. the various brands of liner have differing levels of issues so you'll want to research each and make sure you find the people with negative opinions about what they did. nothing is ever as awesome as a quick quote on facebook makes it seem. plus the effort to remove it after the fact is insane if for some reason you change your mind about the color or the look (yes, one owner did that after buying a truck that already had it on). just make sure you research the hell out of it and give it thought. it's not for everyone.

got my flight.

no paint needs to be removed. but you'll need to prep the surface as per the instructions. why are you lining it?

what do you mean by "change the paint"?

any updates?

any updates?

sigh. yeah the pics aren't dragging over, even individually. you'd have to save each one to the desktop and then bring them in one at a time. the plus side is that then they'd be saved here. I'd wager that &#8221 stands for ". when a new character pack comes in, sometimes the old ones don't get converted quite right.