Pete M

the truck is almost 30 years old. anything made of rubber should be suspect.

guess what was half-off at Lowes I kinda wanted something in black, but couldn't find what I wanted in the used market in the last month. I guess a little bling can't hurt. Not sure what to do about my Comanche emblems though, as you can't really see them on the new shiny-ness.

the last one "we know of" was green. probably wasn't the last one off the line, but it could be. we just haven't found one from a later date yet. it is short-bed and is no longer green though.

I had the idea to unplug that sensor and drive around and, sure enough, it runs exactly the same and throws the same code. I think that might be a clue. I traced the wires back as far as I could but couldn't find any frays. I think a new sensor is in my future.

hey, once the milk is spilt I wanna know how much horsepower it's got. or even more so, how did he chop the tailgate? is it still functional?

need more pics! and more specs!

though it is still more politically correct than Comanche Eliminator.

nothing new to report at the moment. Jeep drives "ok" as long as you don't try to push it hard. next steps include bleeding the air down to the injectors, and hitting up the junkyards for an in-tank gasoline pump and rear wire harness. but there's a lot of rain in the forecast and I've got a family vacation coming up next week so I'm not sure how much I want to dive into it before hand. every step involves me smelling like fuel. the throttle-percentage at idle has me intrigued though. I might just hook that up to one of the other cars to see if it also reads 10%.

good to know!

similar principle though. if the tube that sucks is plugged up, the gasses will escape via another path.

clean trucks are hard to come by in the rust belt.

definitely need more pics is the engine in the final position? what are you doing for a hood?

If you ever get a chance, take your truck to a car show. That'll give you an idea of how awesome it is. some members have won awards when they were just there to see the other cars.

yup. got a brand new bit of bling in the engine bay well, the Jeep got me to GA. only a couple times did I have to kick on the hazards when merging back onto the freeway.

always, always seatbelts.

the late 90s/early 2000s Dakota split bench seems to be a popular swap. not a direct bolt-in, but one of our members was working on an adapter bracket to make it bolt-in.

don't think of it as a Jeep, or a truck. try to think of it as you now own a classic car. for perspective, I bought my first MJ in 1997. a 28 year old car at that time would be the 69 Camaro. the build I would do with it (note the focus on replacing the ancient rubber bits): 31s TJ Canyon rims (8" wide and has stock backspacing) 2" budget boost lift (pucks up front, chevy drop shackles out back) WJ control arms (they have a bend for tire clearance plus you can buy them new to get rid of your 30 year old bushings) YJ front brake lines (they are longer than MJ lines and yours are now 30 years old and should likely be replaced) all sorts of fullsize trucks have a longer rear line to do the same and then I'd leave it alone and focus on the other 28 year old items that likely should be replaced so the truck is reliable. (cooling parts, rubber seals, grounds, battery cables, etc) see the link in my sig for all sorts of how-tos. also this link:

4.10 8.8s are pretty common. 4.10 libertys are rarer and limited to the early years. car-part.com can help with junkyard searches.

KJ. I haven't left yet. new drive day is friday. the rusty fuel return line is fixed. the leaky trans line is fixed. but the code and limp mode keeps coming back. I'm done messing with it until I get to GA. I drove up here in limp mode so I'm confident I can get back. especially since I can kill the code as often as I want. the one bit of new info is that the code reader has a few live stream info feeds and one shows that I'm at almost 10% throttle while at idle. not sure what that means.

what year wrangler?

I grounded my system to a seat floor bolt.

if you're talking about the control arms, now is a good time to contemplate WJ arms.

my only experience with poly is the C-bushings on my ford 44 and they were sooooo stiff