Pete M

if you wanted to, you could scoot the hood forward a bit. it's kinda a pain though.

TAILGATE STYLE #2?

time for an upgrade to a full gauge cluster. be super DUPER careful when messing with the oil pressure switch stuff. they like to snap right off.

I imagine it can be hard to take a day off with those rocky mountain winters lookin' over your shoulder. looks great!

Jesse, you're an absolute inspiration. keep up the positive vibes!

nice! I'd for sure go back for the steering wheel, but then I like to hang rare things on my walls.

what you need is a 3rd, newer Jeep. and then never drive it.

shock mounts will be needed. and if you are avoiding anything hanging low, that might limit the amount of droop you can achieve.

I would pull down on the exhaust and see if it hits the crossmember

was the different booster new? "pedal to the floor when running" is going to be a bad booster or master. not much else in the system.

that truck is insanely good lookin'!

the liberty 8.8 is very common in yards and a bit wider than stock so as to better accommodate the MJ's wide butt. if you want to run 37s on a 3" lift, why not just get a 3" lift? an SOA is never going to be 3" unless the leafs are a negative arch.

sure comes in handy when you build a Jeep for your little nephews

when that happened to me, it was a bad booster.

I doubt those are free, it just has a generic $0 price listed

you're going to need a patch from an XJ if it goes forward of the replacement parts. at some point you might be better off buying used rockers from a clean truck and seeing if they can cut more for the front bit.

for a 4.0L you need to let the axle droop as much as possible. you might even need to pop off the track bar or sway links to get that extra last couple inches. be careful that the oil pump and pickup tube are in there and can get bumped during removal if you force it to hard.

bigger is better

if in the future you ever find one in your size, sell this one off.

if it's a direct replacement, try and find the page from the shop manual that shows the spot welds and get to drilling.

is the new piece attached via spot welds? is it the exact same as the bad piece?

'tis a good question. I've never seen one activate before.

missing the feathers but has the little Comanche pin https://www.ebay.com/itm/405189501722

they can be a serious pain to bleed. I wonder if a vacuum bleeder would work better?