Pete M

an intriguing question. you should probably post that in Tech so more eyeballs will see it

reliability is only one of the aspects that make it a less desirable choice than the LS. but I am all for creativity. take lots of notes and snap lots of photos! If it's as easy as you hope, maybe it'll catch on Lord knows there are a ton of Grands in the junkyards these days.

as long as the links and coils don't contact, you're good to go.

heck yeah!

questions from the OP should really go in the Tech forum. not everyone reads the projects and so more eyes will see the Q over in Tech and thus increase the chances of finding the right answer. I do know that the brakes changed at some point and are not swap-able, but I don't remember what the cutoff was.

MJ beds aren't known for being perfect rectangles. they have a bit of a wide butt.

have you tried car-part.com yet? they should be able to locate you a junkyard transmission.

that looks pretty dang good. what lights are you installing?

there are definitely reasons why there are a whole mess of v8 swaps in the Epic Tech forum and none of them are 4.7Ls.

the current mopar recommendation for AX-15 oil is, I believe, Full synthetic 10w40? that or 10w30

i-phone?

you're not that far off. cheapest I've seen them online is about 10 bucks.

very, very true

right. my left hand has the coordination of a toddler learning to walk. except for driving. if I switch to my right I will unconsciously switch back within 30 seconds. too many years of driving a stick I guess. pizza or subs for a party

got the bottle. If I go back to that yard and it's still there, I'll bring along a couple spot weld bits and experiment on the frame caps. they are not especially easy to pull.

is the system working properly for anyone?

yeah, that's gotta be the most important tip ever

do you guys live in the rust belt? I've had times where the pipe wrench or the vice grips just weren't grabby enough to hold onto a round object. I cannot wait to own this device. just crank on the nuts a bit more until it stops moving. then undo the nuts to free it. I sure hope it works in real life as well as it does in my head.

it's not necessarily about what those 3 pics show, as much as what they don't show. interior, underside, engine bay, etc. it might be a great truck! or it could be a basket case.

based on the pics and the fact that it's been sitting for years and had mice, that's a sub-$1500 truck to me. anything more than that requires a test drive to convince me I'm not going to need another 3 grand just to make it reliable. the fuel system, the interior, the harness, even the engine could all be trash.

your floorpans don't look all that bad at all. you'll want to drill out all the spot welds with a spot weld cutter bit (grind off the rust before drilling because rust will dull a drill bit fast) and remove much of that frame cap and side support so you can treat underneath of it, then cut out the worst part, then weld in a flat piece of steel where the hole is. replacing the entire pan to fix a small hole is unnecessary and a ton more work. when you're all done, coat in POR-15 or Chassis Saver and then you can get new vinyl or carpet or whatever floats your boat. don't forget to fix the rain leak that let that water in.

so technically this is for rack and pinion steering systems for grabbing the smooth inner rod, but I just learned that this exists in the world and figured I'd share in case it has any use in the MJ world too.

do you get them if I quote you?

yup, that's the one! just thinking about never ever picking up a transmission again makes me oh so happy. the back pass corner of the bedliner is even torn a small amount so I don't have to cut into a flawless liner to do it!