Pete M

I don't know what bounty's plan was, but I'm using metal that doesn't rust for my patch repair in the '90. :D

It's a weird magazine thing. Dunno why, but they all do it. Bummer that they didn't have a name or specs on the MJ though. :(

While we're on the subject, is there 2 injectors in the throttle body, or only one?

Wait a sec, is the guy that did the inspection and said that these things were wrong the same guy that will be taking your money for the repairs?

Uh, a grand? :roll: Might wanna fix that typo. :D

Fuel mileage is overrated. :roll:

Sure there is. Drive around in a beat-up truck with a gutted interior and no dash (so no radio) that even you can't start half the time. :D It's theft proof! But not exactly something that'll impress the ladies... :teehee:

Check that the fuel injectors aren't leaking or stuck open.

I've got a hammer... :brows: You'll have the clearest taillights on the block. :D

Amen to that! You can't get an appreciation for how easy it is to drop the starter until you try to do it on another vehicle. :D Oh, and for starter issues, only once have I had a problem that wasn't electrical in nature. Make sure your battery cables are in great shape and corrosion free.

Hmmm, I'm just not seeing $800 worth of work there... :hmm: Is that for you paying someone else to do everything?

The projects forum isn't good enough? Don't let the lack-o-website prevent you from writing up a tech article. For the time being you can put it into the projects forum and then later on we can lift the words/pics and put them on a real page. This semester has been a real bear for me, else I'd be putting more effort into a website.

That's not new. I delete maybe 3 or so per month. We use a code-image-thing for signing up, these guys are just that persistent (or have found a way to hack around it). It's no biggie, just don't click on anything you don't trust. :thumbsup:

Strap it down securely with ratchet straps.

The more money you spend on an oil filter, the better the innards will be. Just don't get the cheapies. The longer crank time is usually associated with the CPS , but is exceedingly common with our era Jeeps and not necessarily a bad thing. The sensor is probably a little dirty or there's some corrosion in the wire harness. If it wasn't explained yet, the CPS has a little magnet in it that jumps when certain teeth in the flywheel go by. This tells the computer where the crankshaft is in it's rotation and the computer will NOT fire until it is absolutely sure where the crankshaft is and if it ever loses signal from the CPS, it should kill the spark immediately. Modern engines are designed for quick startups (something they feel their customers want). It's not always easy to accomplish that though, I know Ford was having some problems back in the mid 90s with a couple engines.

Mine's just plain missing. :(

Went into one of the local parts stores for a rear brake line from a mid 90s Dakota. I explained that I was looking for a line that was longer than my stock MJ one and the Dakota one should fit the bill. He looks it up but says they don't have one in stock. Then he says that they have a spool of the rubber line and I should be able to make my own. Puzzled, I ask "really?", but before my brain could figure out what he was talking about, he corrects himself and says, "oh wait, that's vacuum line." :nuts:

When the computer doesn't get the right signals from the CPS, the truck stops running or is very hard to start in the first place (lots of cranking).

yeah, they're good alright... until they blow up or seize up. :D

The t-case in an 85 XJ will likely be a 207 (part time) or a 229 (or 228 or whatever the heck the allwheel drive case was back then). It's also possible that the trans is a T-4. Either way it should be swappable. Is the oil level in your current trans topped off?

Blow-by isn't really a problem at idle, it rears it's ugly head when the cylinder pressures are greatest.

Sorta. That trans always gave me problems when the oil level got low (slow leak out the back), but that was the only time it ever got "stuck" in a gear. Usually it was just noisy or got difficult to shift.

The Fram filters have a history of internal failuress that cause a sudden loss in oil pressure. I had it happen to me on my way to The Badlands offroad park a couple years back. Lost all pressure at idle and had to do the "dance of the pedals" to keep the rpms up at all times during the entire trip. I thought it was a bad pump and found that the pressure came back slightly after I swapped in some thicker oil (in the parts store parking lot), but I didn't learn about the filter until I got back home. Sure enough, a new filter solved it. Oh, and 210* is technically the normal operating temp for the 4.0L, what I should of said is that 220 is fairly common and not a huge deal. Anything approaching 230 should be looked into. But even then, there are Jeeps out there that have perpetually hot engines where the owner insists that it still runs just fine. The 4.0L is just so friggin' bulletproof that sometimes it's hard to tell what constitutes a legitimate concern. :D My 88's engine has twice survived 0 oil pressure (that fram filter and then later on when the rear main blew wide open and drained it almost dry), various overheating episodes (that one time on the dunes the needle was pegged all the way over and coolant was spewing out of the radiator), a water pump whose impeller disintegrated and spread tiny aluminum bits throughout the cooling system (I think I've flushed them all out), at least 5 different owners, and years of my abusive right foot. :D And I'm sure I'm forgetting something. Someday I'll replace it with a stroker 4.7, but in the mean time, it's still alive and kickin'. :D

The stock bumpstop tower (not including the screw-on part at the bottom) is only 5" long and spacers taller than 2" can bring the top of the coil spring too close to the bottom of the tower for my personal preference. I'm not too terribly familiar with the ACOS setup. If my tires were still rubbing the fenders, I'd get longer bumpstops rather than add lift. But then it depends on precisely where the rubbing is occurring and what axles/rims/controlarms you had.

I've only got one left from the initial batch, but it's easy to order more. :D I'll let you know when they arrive.