Pete M

Did ya give them a magnet? :D

Could use more attachment points to secure it to the frame if you plan to use it for extraction. Looks great though. :D

Most guys that do an exo go overboard and build a junglegym. Just keep it simple and it'll look much better. :D These are my plans. The dashed lines will be inside the fender and connect to my rocker guards. And maybe later I'd add some extra. The dashed lines will all be hidden and the end result will be this: It's minimalistic will protect my A-pillars. Interior cages are great for hard rolls, but exterior cages are also good for soft flops. Plus there really isn't all that much room inside an MJ.

The 4.0L swap requires a new trans, new driveshafts, possibly a new t-case, and definitely a complete wiring harness (including the stuff under the dash). A donor rig and factory shop manuals are highly recommended. The 3.4L swap can be as simple as swapping in the new block and getting a better carb (do NOT use the crappy Jeep one again). http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cherokee/x ... 4swap.html

That's not totally unheard of. I bought a 78 Bronco with 4.10s for like $800, parted out the perfect interior and low mileage driveline for like $2000, threw away the rotted-out body, and got free axles in the process. :D

Sometimes the CPS responds to a good cleaning, sometimes it responds to fiddling with the plug, but somtimes it is just dying and needs to be replaced. :(

I was going to mention that. I have been to two runs in the last two years where you were not allowed to have an 'unrestrained' 102" whip. Seems like that rule is more common where there are significant amounts of trees. Problem solved! Ok, so that's not exactly secured enough for the trail, but it ain't hard to strap one down. :D

Can you find a smaller picture online of what you're looking for and then one of us could take a similar shot with better resolution? Are you looking for a stock truck or modified or what?

I got my whip and stuff at a local electronics store. They sell hobby stuff, car stereo stuff, boat stuff, CB and HAM stuff, raw components, etc. Better than Radio shack for the do-it-youselfer. Not a chain though. As for the wire, I just popped a hole through the back wall and through the bed. On my truck you'd never even notice it. :D It's important to keep the wire away from the truck's power wires and keep the system isolated (don't let it ground anywhere).

Yup, the only thing needed is a love of the trucks. :thumbsup:

As far as I know there weren't any sheetmetal changes up there between 88 and 91 (the first year of the H.O.). Can you snap any pics of what you see?

No can do. I have zero cash and these were given to me. So, I'm working with what I've got. Maybe I'll put it near the stock antenna, but on the driver's side. My whip and spring were under $20. But if I had to use a fiberglass, I'd put it in the middle of the bed, right behind the cab. I figure that would provide the most protection against tree branches. Of course, that is what I did with my second one and it still died on its first wheeling trip. Maybe you could just buy a spring for it?

The easiest way is to just go buy a shortbed MJ and use it. You'll instantly lose 6" of wheelbase and 6" of rear overhang. The second easiest is to dump the bed entirely and build a tube frame from scratch. You can build a flatbed on top of it to your exact specifications.

Hahahahaha! Even knowing that there was something funny coming up, it still cought me off guard. :D That's right up there with the "hurculiner on his hootus" guy. I love the internet. :D

Seems like an awful lot of work to eliminate a single key from the ring. :hmm: Try wrapping tape around the door key so it's easier to find when you're standing out in the rain. :D

Yeah, well, um, that's because I sorta neglected to measure it ahead of time. :( Oops.

Yeah, that connector right behind the rear tire was the culprit when I lost my brake lights once.

Dump the fiberglass crap and get a steel whip and a spring base. I snapped 2 fiber ones off before wising up to the fact that Michigan has LOTS of evil trees. :( In the picture it looks thicker than it is due to the vacuum hose I put over it (purely for looks on the street, it comes off on the trail so the whip can better bounce off branches)

Why yes, yes I did. :D

Don't forget that if you don't retain the MJ main leaf, the axle will be pushed forward 1/2". It's enough to be noticeable when looking at it and it'll push the driveshaft 1/2" closer to the t-case or trans.

I don't know anything about the "U" code leafs. But I believe "F"s are the ones you want. they should be the stiffer multi-leaf packs. Theoretically, the "U"s could be the same thing, only the older code, but I don't know. I go to http://www.explorer4x4.com/ for the tricky Explorer questions.

That's a better size, now go stand closer to the truck so we can see it. :D Try a 3/4 shot, where you stand in the front of the truck and snap a pic showing the front and side.

I didn't do much to the front wells. Basically I just cut the front portion off level with the top of the bumper. The tires on the other hand, have done a great job of smashing the rear of the fender. :roll: But I have the wide Ford axles (with a different scrub radius etc) and your experience will be different. Make sure you lengthen the bumpstop to keep the tire out of the top of the flare.

4.88s for sure.

Time for a gear change. :D