Pete M

Could be a leak in the windshield, a leak at the door seals, a problem with the A/C drain (which should be up there somewhere) or a problem inside the cowl area. And there's always the chance of something completely new. :D

Content management system? Waaaay over my head there. Could you elaborate?

Inside those vents are little rubber flaps that should keep the rain out even if it got past the black plastic cover. There are plenty of places for water to get in. The seals at the top of the door, the windshield, the rear window, the door seal at the A pillar, the holes in the fire wall above the pedals, all can cause puddling on the floor. Try experimenting with the hose. Another trick is to clean up the area and sprinkle baby powder around. The water will make trails through it and you can then trace the route back to the source. :D

Make sure it's the seals that are bad. I've had several vent windows that leaked because the little posts (that the window pivots on) had wallowed out their holes making the window loose in the frame. A cheap fix is to shove coins under the lock. A better fix is the junkyard to get some windows that are in good condition. Or you can swap in non-vent ones if you don't really use the vents.

Too bad you don't have low range. 1st/Low holds my truck better than the brakes. :D It's especially useful on steep hills and when I want to jump out and snap a picture. If the tires don't slide, the truck stays put.

I fixed his post, but yeah you need to have after the picture address. Paste the address, then highlight it and click on the IMG tag above.

4.0L + auto = 3.55 (98% of the time).

I think he meant plasma or a sawzall. :D When working on a rusty truck, sometimes even the sawzall can't reach (no, I don't have a plasma cutter). But I've got an electric angle grinder, plus a small air grinder with cutoff wheels. But even with all that, the last 2 bolts holding the rusty rollbar into my 90 were impossible to reach. I could see them, just couldn't get any of my tools to reach them. I eventually got to them after yanking on the rollbar itself snapped the bar right off its base (rampant rust inside). Sometimes you just need a little luck with these Jeeps.

I know a bunch of ZJs came with CV joints, but not all.

While the track bar should be as horizontal and as long as possible, it's also important that it match the drag link in length and angle. Otherwise bumpsteer will occur offroad (which is when your steering wheel moves back and forth while the tires are only moving up and down over obstacles). How much the angular difference affects the steering response depends a lot on your steering setup. I've got the dreaded Ford inverted-T draglink and trackbar and so there's plenty of dead space in the steering and I'm not sure if I've got any bumpsteer. :roll:

my picturetrail addresses for posting look like this: http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL91/512 ... 431160.jpg You can either paste it here and then highlight and click the IMG tag, or click the IMG tag, paste the addy, then click the IMG tag again so you get this (but without the spaces): And then the pic should appear:

You may be the first for that one. :D

Are you sure about that? I thought the LPs first came out with the TJ in 97?

Well, I can't compete with getting a new addition to the family, so I guess I got the second best gift here: a week at my sister's house! :D Mostly it was our gift to her, but we'll call it a mutual gift. I only see her and her husband like 3 or 4 times a year and even then it's fleeting since they have scores of other people to visit in the short time they're up here. Hopefully now that classes are over I can find more weekends to drive down. I just wish she lived closer than 12 hours away. :( Oh, and my brother-in-law gave me his old X-box and Halo-2.

The guards are "offroad only" because they affect light output and the clips make them removable. Gluing them on makes them not-quite-so-removable. :D

You wouldn't be the first. :D

I'm totally willing to accept that some lucky MJs got them from the factory (especially the 91/92s, when they knew the end was near) I just want to see proof.

I HATED the 3.07 gears when I upgraded to 30" tires. But then I demand more from my truck than being mere transportation. If it's not fun to drive, why bother? :D I don't think you can get 3" from adding Explorer leafs. Maybe an inch or so. AALs are pretty cheap, but make sure you get one for an MJ, as the XJ ones will only lift your truck half as much as they would an XJ. Also, from what I can tell, 3.73 gears were more common in Grand Cherokees than Cherokees so keep an eye out for them too.

I've heard claims, but have yet to see proof of a non-longbed or non-Metric ton that came with the Dana 44 from its birthplace in Toledo. A picture of the axle is NOT proof. If it was, I could just show you the 44 that's under my 90 shortbed. I put it there. The 44 swaps right in and could easily have been done at the Dealership if the owner desired (as far as I can tell, hitches were a dealer-only item). Oh, and you could get the Metric Tonne with the 2.5L too. Yes, that's right. Out there in the world are Dana 44s with 4.10 gears in them. Happy hunting. :D

Yup, I've had that happen on occasion. Though usually that happens on bolts that I eventually cut off (meaning that they probably weren't ever coming out due to rust). There's no one tool that does it all. :D

Certainly. I'll get another out to you next time I mail something. :D

Kitchen sink... :D

I lost a headlight to a tree branch years ago (back when the truck was 2wd). I include them in the "get me home" category. Not exactly on par with a fullsize spare tire or the hi-lift, but my "backup" lighting is way too bright for the roads and a single stock headlight doesn't put out much light (blame the crappy wiring). Safety is safety, whether it be on the trail or on the road afterwards. :D Plus I like them. The mounting clips SUCK though, and I've since glued them directly to the lights with silicone. Not a good idea for a daily driver since they do block light output slightly and I imagine you could get a ticket for that.

I actually prefer my little 8" pipe wrench to the vice grips. :brows: Vice grips only get so tight, but the pipe wrench keeps putting more and more pressure (if it doesn't spin of course). If it does spin, then I go for the vice grips or try roughing up the surface so the wrench teeth have something to grab.